Volt /Ammeter at odds ??
I don't understand why you find it wrong to eliminate a bad design (as many have said) so my car doesn't burn. It's not an important thing for me to have an operating ammeter.
Because its not a bad design. It doesn't matter how many people say it.
One advantage of the factory wiring strategy is alternator output goes straight to the welded splice. No fusible link or other connections other than the bulkhead. The bulkhead connection on many, but not all, uses a relatively small terminal for the loads expected. That's where one of the problems on your car is. There may be more.
There shouldn't be much current flowing through the ammeter and fusible link, except briefly after starting, and again after sitting at stop lights with lights on.
The fact you had a loose connection on the back of the ammeter is something to look into.
One possibility is the wires have been messed with, and it wasn't tightened up.
If that's all, that's great. But its worth visually checking a couple things. One is if the ring terminal was replaced or damaged. Another is for fiber insulating washers where needed. Definately don't want those wires touching chassis metal.
Third is the ammeter studs themselves. If they are loose, then there is a problem. If overheated, at least some years/models the press fit of the studs will loosen.
