I screwed up!! Advice please?

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I fully understand I should have sent someone to inspect it.
The seller talked me out of that so to speak. “My brother does inspection for —————, high end muscle and classic cars ect” save yourself some money in the inspection he said, no one can give you more information than I can. .

I wouldn't ever trust a family member to do an 'honest' inspection of a car that their relative is selling... Who's side do you think he's going to be on????
 
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I wouldn't ever trust a family member to do an 'honest' inspection of a car that their relative is selling... Who's side do you think he's going to be on????
I took his word for it. I was excited. He is an upstanding, supposedly anyway, member of the Mopar community. He hosts a large car shows, I’ve done quite well before and I rolled the dice. The car is worth what I paid for it, maybe better even with the repairs necessary
 
Anyone know where that washer came from? A little bit smaller than a half dollar and about as thick.
Also, who wants to buy an LD 340? I’m gonna need some change to fix this baby up LOL
 
I took his word for it. I was excited. He is an upstanding, supposedly anyway, member of the Mopar community. He hosts a large car shows, I’ve done quite well before and I rolled the dice. The car is worth what I paid for it, maybe better even with the repairs necessary

It does look like a decent car besides the front frame issues that you found...

Fix it up right and cruise it...
 
Anyone know where that washer came from? A little bit smaller than a half dollar and about as thick.
Also, who wants to buy an LD 340? I’m gonna need some change to fix this baby up LOL

That looks like it came off a body bolt from somewhere...
 
You're right. It was a 6K car. That's certainly not perfect car territory, but it was misrepresented. No offense when I ask this.....but if you could afford 6K for a car, why not a plane ticket to go look at it in person? OR we have members in the area that car was in I am sure who could have looked at it for you. All water under the bridge now I suppose. Sounds like it needs front frame rail(s). They really are not hard to replace. Just a lot of spot welds. You could remove it or them yourself, get the replacements, get the car COMPLETELY ready for them to be welded back in and have someone come do it for you.....OR you could buy a decent MIG welder, learn how to use it and do it yourself. WIre welding is the easiest form of welding to learn. Trust me. If I can do it, the biggest retard on the planet can do it. No offense to retards.
Thankyou for admitting your a retard that’s the first step to recovery :)
 
Car has been looked over and it’s really pretty decent aside from the areas mentioned.
I’m done pissing and moaning!
Thanks all for the shoulders to cry on.
I’m going to keep her.
@Oldmanmopar , you have a pm!
Here’s a few pics:
I think that you made a good choice. The car is definitely worth saving, and it is the car you wanted. Make a good plan and enjoy the journey.
 
I sell that section with the transmission cross frame at Carlisle for $250-$400. I usually try to have three or four there. I don't have any right now, but I'll be looking for parts cars until the show.

More importantly you need to talk to the seller. Show him this thread and tell him you will be listing his name here. THE BIGGER HE IS THE MORE IMPORTANT HIS NAME IS! Most "known Mopar restorers" would give you $1000-$1500 toward your repair and keep his good name intact. If he DOESN'T the rest of us REALLY WANT to know!

I would even ask that you PM me the person's identity so I can watch out myself and tell my friends.
 
Man! For what “oldmanmopar” offered I’d be over there already. Not only that it might not even need a whole new front clip. If he had made me an offer like that on my last project I’d have been in his driveway with the car on a trailer.
 
Well Guys, I went down this road before regarding cars not being what they're supposed to be. Unless you have a contract document saying otherwise an "as is" sale is just that, "as is" . Even if you can prove fraud you'll have a hard time getting your money back and you'll spend more than the price of the car going to court. So from experience I'd say "suck it up" and spend the money you would spend chasing this guy on parts to fix you car.
 
I sell that section with the transmission cross frame at Carlisle for $250-$400. I usually try to have three or four there. I don't have any right now, but I'll be looking for parts cars until the show.

More importantly you need to talk to the seller. Show him this thread and tell him you will be listing his name here. THE BIGGER HE IS THE MORE IMPORTANT HIS NAME IS! Most "known Mopar restorers" would give you $1000-$1500 toward your repair and keep his good name intact. If he DOESN'T the rest of us REALLY WANT to know!

I would even ask that you PM me the person's identity so I can watch out myself and tell my friends.
I hate to badmouth a stranger. Or anyone for that matter. I will send you a PM as long as you can agree that you won’t badmouth this person either.
It’s a nice thought about showing him this thread and asking for a partial refund. Something to think about maybe. How does everybody else feel about that?
 
Well Guys, I went down this road before regarding cars not being what they're supposed to be. Unless you have a contract document saying otherwise an "as is" sale is just that, "as is" . Even if you can prove fraud you'll have a hard time getting your money back and you'll spend more than the price of the car going to court. So from experience I'd say "suck it up" and spend the money you would spend chasing this guy on parts to fix you car.
Could the video he sent be used as a contract document? He full on lied on video about the condition before sale. I’m not about to take anyone to court. If It was a $20,000 car, then I’d be speaking with an attorney or rallying friends to share my experience and resolving the issue that way. Said and done it’s a fair price for what it is. I am displeased That if I was to take it out for a cruise the car would very likely be totaled and I would very likely be injured at a minimum. That’s what I’m most upset about. I was sold a vehicle that is absolutely dangerous to drive and I was fully assured that it was completely safe and structurally sound.
I’m pretty much over it, I was heated yesterday when I found it of course. And I’m really glad I didn’t take it for a ride before! Again I apologize for the ***** fest! I’ve looked on the site for a long time and admired everyone’s work and camaraderie. I hope to be able to share my own in the future. Thanks folks
 
Looks like a really nice car to me. If you can get it fixed for about $1K you will have a very nice driver that is worth at least that much.
 
Could the video he sent be used as a contract document? He full on lied on video about the condition before sale. I’m not about to take anyone to court. If It was a $20,000 car, then I’d be speaking with an attorney or rallying friends to share my experience and resolving the issue that way. Said and done it’s a fair price for what it is. I am displeased That if I was to take it out for a cruise the car would very likely be totaled and I would very likely be injured at a minimum. That’s what I’m most upset about. I was sold a vehicle that is absolutely dangerous to drive and I was fully assured that it was completely safe and structurally sound.
I’m pretty much over it, I was heated yesterday when I found it of course. And I’m really glad I didn’t take it for a ride before! Again I apologize for the ***** fest! I’ve looked on the site for a long time and admired everyone’s work and camaraderie. I hope to be able to share my own in the future. Thanks folks

I had a beater car (67 Bqarracuda fastback) where the front upper control arm mounts tore off when I did a hard stop... I took it to work at the machine shop that I was interning at and one of the toolmakers and I pulled the mounting tab back down and mig welded it on again...

I drove the car from Detroit to Chicago and retired it after that...

It will still drive with the upper control arm mount tore a bit, but I took it slow and easy until I repaired it with the toolmaker...
 
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View attachment 1715400009 View attachment 1715400010 i bought the car sight unseen from a guy with some high end, rare, nut and bolt restored Mopars. He seemed like a real straight up guy.
I was just after a solid cruiser. No structural issues, so to speak. Didn’t care if it was a 20 footer, as long as it was solid.
I was assured it was, he sent pics and videos ect.
I had the car delivered and just got a chance to dig into it a bit.
I was about to do the front brakes and cruise it around this weekend.
Sigh...
The A arm mounting “tabs” are junk. The front one on the driver side is actually rotted and separate from the frame rail.
The rail doesn’t look all that great in that area as well.
The passenger side is similar.
The rest of the car is “fair” to decent for what it is.
If it was a local buy, I’d have had my money back by now.
But due to distance and transport costs, I own it.
I’m not looking at any legal action or anything like that. It was a 6000 dollar car.
But it’s not a driver. It’s not sound. And I believe it would be a big$$ repair. I can stick metal together, but I can’t weld. Nor could I get the proper geometry.
Sell it? I’m brutally honest when I sell things. With the 340 that I’ve been sitting on, try and recoup and move on or??
Sorry for the rant.
I was really excited and my balloon just burst.
Been doing the family thing with no Mopar for far too long now.

What say you?

DID U PAY WITH PAYPAL ? Only way I`d buy anything site unseen . A lot of people aren't as honest as we are !
 
That car looks nice, definitely worth fixing, and as a Wisconsin guy if I had the $ I'd pay 6k for that even knowing the problems. I can't afford to pay someone else to fix my rust bucket, so I'm learning how to do it myself... the people on here that are willing to share their knowledge are a godsend. If you're close to oldmanmopar, and can afford to, do it! If you can't, people on here will hold you by the hand and help you get it done (as they are doing with me, lol)
Get that car on the road, man!
 
That car looks nice, definitely worth fixing, and as a Wisconsin guy if I had the $ I'd pay 6k for that even knowing the problems. I can't afford to pay someone else to fix my rust bucket, so I'm learning how to do it myself... the people on here that are willing to share their knowledge are a godsend. If you're close to oldmanmopar, and can afford to, do it! If you can't, people on here will hold you by the hand and help you get it done (as they are doing with me, lol)
Get that car on the road, man!
Thanks man.
This is a great site and everyone seems extremely helpful.
I’m waiting for a reply from oldmanmopar. That would be the best route for me.
I’d love to do it myself/learn to weld better. But I have no time for a few years. And I wouldn’t want to half as a repair like this!!
 
I saw you PM'd me. What I can tell you by your pictures that I could see . Don't waist your time trying to repair the clip. Look inside the rails with a scope first your jaw will drop. If that section of the rail rusted that bad on the outside is just as bad inside. The car will get solid with a square and aligned clip. You can not even tell it was repaired when I do them . The most time consuming is removing and cleaning the body and the clip so it goes on a like it was factory installed. We can replace just the rails but we found it takes more time and not as nice a job. So that would be a lot more money. The motor still would have to come out.

One thing required on Barracudas or plastic grille cars is you remove the parts mentioned. and the seats and carpet. Drive it in , Drive it out . I also replace the upper bushing and use good upper a arms. Your arms are probably just as bad.

I drop the whole motor trans suspension with the wire harness everything drops out the bottom. We leave the uppers on the clip coming out. We replace them with glass beaded arms with new bushings it is much easier for us. Replacing Strut and lower bushings is $50 more parts included . I take pictures of the whole process and post them. All fenders and doors edges are taped to prevent chips. The last one took Friday night to Sunday night that included floors and the owner helped.

From roof skins , cowls ,mini tubs, Quarters, rails, Tail panels. We do the work pretty quick and cheaper than most. We have no overhead. The garage and the equipment is paid for. We have been doing these cars for a long time. Welding the sheet metal on any A-body car is what I did for years .

I won't do body work any more . My arms are done I am to old and did hand blocking for to many years. My son does the paint on our cars since my cancer.

I like sheet metal work. Its easy and I can make a couple dollars on the side. He does all the welding. I get the parts ready and fitted .
The only reason I am taking work in and building two cars to sell. I need the money for a project I never talk about .

I would be interested in the LD340

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Glad to see things will be progressing forward!
Oldmanmopar and crew look like they have it down to a science and will get you looked after and on the road!
 
The washer looks like the one that goes on the door striker. If you check you will probably find the metal is cracked around it
 
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