Transmission leak advise

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R4Sedan

R4Sedan

Larry
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I'm looking for some advise. My Challenger has a leak. It leaves a small puddle on the RH side of the car. I got under it was wet on the pan. It does have a fresh filter fluid re-usable gasket.
Its hard to tell if it's actually coming from the pan or dipstick tube, pump seal, etc...
Is there a good way to diagnose this put it on jack stands with car running? Bad idea?
On a side note Transmission works perfect. Should I just re-seal it. Need some ideas.
BTW it's a 383 w/a 727.

Thanks, Larry
 
Pan, dipstick tube o-ring, and shift selector seal are common leak points. Front pump, tail shaft, and speedo sender are others. In your case you might check the dipstick tube. Feel around the top of the case where the tube enters for oil.

They can be tricky to locate as fluid will gravitate toward the path of least resistance.
 
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I would suspect the o ring on the dipstick first. I've had similar problems after a fluid & filter change.
 
Spray it off with brake clean and dry it. Start and run it.
 
My first guess would be the O ring for the dipstick tube but the best way to be sure is to clean everything up really nice and make sure it is dry then take it out for a spin but try to avoid the freeway so you don't blow the fluid all over the place. If it is really dripping as much as you say, you should be able to notice a small streak after a good heat cycle. I've also had it happen where leaks don't start leaking until the parts begin to cool down so I would check as soon as you can after the drive, and if you don't find anything, check again in a couple hours once the parts have cooled down.
Good luck
 
R4Sedan said:
I'm looking for some advise. My Challenger has a leak. It leaves a small puddle on the RH side of the car. I got under it was wet on the pan. It does have a fresh filter fluid re-usable gasket.
Its hard to tell if it's actually coming from the pan or dipstick tube, pump seal, etc...
Is there a good way to diagnose this put it on jack stands with car running? Bad idea?
On a side note Transmission works perfect. Should I just re-seal it. Need some ideas.
BTW it's a 383 w/a 727.

Thanks, Larry
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How well did you straighten the pan rails out before reinstalling?
 
The dipstick tube o-ring or could have a rust hole in it as the accumulate dirt and moisture in the spot.

It will only leak when the car is off or in park as the fluid is drained back into the pan.
 
toolmanmike said:
How well did you straighten the pan rails out before reinstalling?
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Mike, the PO had changed it. I haven't had the car too long. I just double-checked the bolts to make sure they were snug. I did spray and wipe everything down with brake kleen. I just haven't taken it back out again.
 
R4Sedan said:
Mike, the PO had changed it. I haven't had the car too long. I just double-checked the bolts to make sure they were snug. I did spray and wipe everything down with brake kleen. I just haven't taken it back out again.
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If its leaking at the right front you wont need to drive it. It will leak sitting still either from the pan or dipstick tube. There is nothing else at the rf to leak
 
fklskv said:
If its leaking at the right front you wont need to drive it. It will leak sitting still either from the pan or dipstick tube. There is nothing else at the rf to leak
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Thanks I will look more into it tomorrow. I'm thinking tube. Or hoping cuz after I drive it and it sits it comes out right behind RF tire.
 
Larry, get the car on stands and get a good light and mirror and look very closely at the dipstick tube area where it goes into the case. If it's all wet about the case where the tube goes into the case there, the O ring is probably dried out and or split. They can be a point of contention. At any rate, as with any leak, the highest point where there is wet fluid it the likely culprit.
 
Unless you just like changing parts for fun there's only one way to do it. Dump a few extra quarts in it. Get under it at night and bring a flashlight and a roll of Bounty. Maybe a pillow too so your neck doesn't get a cramp in it...(Don't ASK!) Wipe off everything and WAIT. Wipe it all off AGAIN and wait. If you have to change the tube oring, then the fluid level will adjust itself. Otherwise you can remove the nss and it will adjust itself as well.
 
I have a question of my own. I have a 68 Chrysler Newport 383 with a 727 there is a leak that will not stop coming from the front pump bellhousing area. I have replaced the input shaft seal as well as the front pump seal. I have not replaced the oring cuz it didnt look too bad or cracked or streched but everytime it is put in gear it will pour fluid out of the front pump. My question is can the oring being bad cause fluid to by pass it? I dont see fluid being able to come out of the vent. I realize it is possible the input shaft may have gotten torn but when i put it back together the seal looked great and no tears.
 
What o-ring? Does it gush in neutral? cracked converter, worn converter, worn bushing, loose pump bolts.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
What o-ring? Does it gush in neutral? cracked converter, worn converter, worn bushing, loose pump bolts.
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I found out that there is an oring that is on the front pump housing and yes in any gear it starts pouring fluid out. I have not noticed or seen any cracks in anything and the torqie converter doesnt have any ridges or bad grooves in it also have not noticed any cracks on that either. I have had it apart twice so far now. I should clearify on the oring. It is on the outer perimiter of the front pump its about a 10" diameter oring.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
Larry, get the car on stands and get a good light and mirror and look very closely at the dipstick tube area where it goes into the case. If it's all wet about the case where the tube goes into the case there, the O ring is probably dried out and or split. They can be a point of contention. At any rate, as with any leak, the highest point where there is wet fluid it the likely culprit.
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Rob, after cleaning it a few times and waiting. Looks like it's just coming out of the gasket. Any recommendations on a good gasket.
 
ROBERT LOCKE said:
I have a question of my own. I have a 68 Chrysler Newport 383 with a 727 there is a leak that will not stop coming from the front pump bellhousing area. I have replaced the input shaft seal as well as the front pump seal. I have not replaced the oring cuz it didnt look too bad or cracked or streched but everytime it is put in gear it will pour fluid out of the front pump. My question is can the oring being bad cause fluid to by pass it? I dont see fluid being able to come out of the vent. I realize it is possible the input shaft may have gotten torn but when i put it back together the seal looked great and no tears.
Click to expand...
There is a metal bushing that goes around the pump. If that goes bad it can eat up your front pump seal. Maybe this.
 
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Park and neutral are not gears. Does it gush in Park or neutral? If it gushes all the time when running then say so. If you removed the pump then you should have replaced the o-ring (lathe cut seal) and all pump bolt gaskets, plus pump gasket. And while the pump is out, it's a snap to take it apart to check the bushing and probably replace it.
 
R4Sedan said:
I'm looking for some advise. My Challenger has a leak. It leaves a small puddle on the RH side of the car. I got under it was wet on the pan. It does have a fresh filter fluid re-usable gasket.
Its hard to tell if it's actually coming from the pan or dipstick tube, pump seal, etc...
Is there a good way to diagnose this put it on jack stands with car running? Bad idea?
On a side note Transmission works perfect. Should I just re-seal it. Need some ideas.
BTW it's a 383 w/a 727.

Thanks, Larry
Click to expand...
Update your dipstick seal to the newer boot style. They look like a rubber sleeve. They were developed to address a common leak area. The new style seal is ribbed. It is like 7 o ring seals in one.
Get a cast aluminum pan that has a thicker pan rail. They will seal on any style of gasket no problem.
 
Duane said:
Update your dipstick seal to the newer boot style. They look like a rubber sleeve. They were developed to address a common leak area. The new style seal is ribbed. It is like 7 o ring seals in one.
Get a cast aluminum pan that has a thicker pan rail. They will seal on any style of gasket no problem.
Click to expand...

Got a pic of the new style seal?
 
fklskv said:
Got a pic of the new style seal?
Click to expand...
They look like this. You will have to search for a listing for your specific trans but this is what they look like.

image.png
 
I'm a little late to the party here, but a trick my Pa always used to use to find a leak was to clean everything off real good, and then coat everything with baby powder or white flour. Start it up, let it run a minute, shut it off. Leaks are easy to find.. especially trans fluid.
 
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