Power steering box Rag Joint

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Kendog 170

Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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So I have play in my rag joint. I would like to replace the stock one with a newer swivel type. It seems you have to cut the steering shaft to do this installation which I don't want to do. Does anyone sell a pin in direct replacement ? It's a stock 68 Dart power steering setup

I did find this but too pricey for this cheap old f*7^.

Mopar Universal Joint Adapter - Power Box - FR1506P - 574 - 5367
 
No rag joint on a '68 Dart. It's got the standard coupler that is in most Mopars of that era. It can be rebuilt of replaced.
 
Is this it? Tony’s Parts has them.

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Mopar stock coupler was miles ahead of the GM stamped circle O tire cord w bolts setup that they used for years. Rebuild the stocker, add that stainless wire retainer and be done with it
 
Ford and others used a coupler with canvas link in it. That is where the slang term "rag joint" comes from. Chryslers engineered box coupling never was referred to as a rag joint and shouldn't be. Aftermarket is either showing their ignorance or bumping search terms for buyers who don't know the difference.
Edit; aftermarket calls this a rag joint too yet there is no "rag" in it either.
For Ford F150 Steering Shaft Coupler Rag-Joint Universal U-Joint 8L3Z3B676B | eBay
Only 27 bucks for all of that? Must be produced in large lots in China. There wont be similar production of our box coupling that can be kit rebuilt.
 
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I only said Rag Joint as that was what we called them back in the 70's. I will just replace with the new kits.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I only said Rag Joint as that was what we called them back in the 70's. I will just replace with the new kits.
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For most, The worst part of the rebuild is the cap. Factory used a bottle cap like crimp. The kit will include a new cap and you can find threads here detailing how members have managed to recreate the factory like crimp using the new cap in the kit.
I was taught to distort the original cap just enough to pop it off, like a bottle cap, so I could reinstall it.
The cross pin is a very tight press fit into the shaft. Most of the time it isn't worn enough to warrant R&R. I've replaced only 2 of them. If you do need to replace it you will need a press to get it changed and centered. Disassemble the column, take shaft alone to the press.
I did R&R 1 of the 2 with a hammer. Took some doing to get it close to centered. I settled for about ten thou' of centered. Good luck with yours.
 
RedFish said:
For most, The worst part of the rebuild is the cap. Factory used a bottle cap like crimp. The kit will include a new cap and you can find threads here detailing how members have managed to recreate the factory like crimp using the new cap in the kit.
I was taught to distort the original cap just enough to pop it off, like a bottle cap, so I could reinstall it.
The cross pin is a very tight press fit into the shaft. Most of the time it isn't worn enough to warrant R&R. I've replaced only 2 of them. If you do need to replace it you will need a press to get it changed and centered. Disassemble the column, take shaft alone to the press.
I did R&R 1 of the 2 with a hammer. Took some doing to get it close to centered. I settled for about ten thou' of centered. Good luck with yours.
Click to expand...
Exactly! Easier to just pull the column and remove the shaft. I did that when I replaced my lower column seal/bushing and rebuilt the joint while I had it all apart. What a difference it made.
 
toolmanmike said:
Exactly! Easier to just pull the column and remove the shaft. I did that when I replaced my lower column seal/bushing and rebuilt the joint while I had it all apart. What a difference it made.
Click to expand...
yeah, we never know what we'll find when we dig in. For my 67,, I didn't know the upper bearing was crusty, roared, and needed replaced before the column reached the workbench.
 
RedFish said:
yeah, we never know what we'll find when we dig in. For my 67,, I didn't know the upper bearing was crusty, roared, and needed replaced before the column reached the workbench.
Click to expand...
It's all good now though. Ready for another 50 years. LOL
 
I flipped the square tabs over and re-inserted. That how loose it is.(Temporary of course).Took all the play out there but definitely have some play in the column (maybe bearing?) so I will pull that and go through everything so I'll get another 50 Years as well.
Thanks for all the input.
 
A guy at work was told by the service he needed a new “doppleganer joint”. Or some german term for his Mercedes Ml350 for $750.. when he dscribed the part I said ...Oh A rag joint.
He laughed at me until he pulled up a pic on the net. Damn thats an expensive rag joint !

As for holding the top on the coupler . I bought a few spring clips made to retain it on off of Ebay and it works quite well.
 
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