LA top end rebuild question

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My motor has a 686 solid roller cam. A chain worked just fine for close to 8 years. No slack at all when removed. $340.00 for my new chain with billet gears special ordered from Cloyes. .005 over size sprockets. I used the old Rollmaster chain and sprockets in the brown Duster. fit perfect on that used engine.
 
How about the double rolling cheater gear drive held up with both a belt AND suspenders option ? Lol
I would like the manufacture of that please. Sounds like something my wife would enjoy. After all I am 64. I use to be able to piss over the hood of my car. Now I have a hard time not getting the tips of my sneakers wet.
 
Listen "Yellow fish with no teeth just lips"

This is on the Jessel ad for the belt drive I included the ad above. You probably didn't read it or listen to the videos. Can you ever admit when you learn something. You couldn't have legitimately passed grade school. They must have pushed you through just to get rid of you. Have someone read this to you a couple of times . They will explain the big words you don't know. This was my first post on belt drives when a member asked me who sells them.


Jesels ad
Innovation is at the forefront of any product produced by Jesel and that’s why our Camshaft Belt Drive Systems are one of the most sought after components in the racing industry today. From the first prototype camshaft belt drive ever manufactured by Dan Jesel back in 1982 to the sleekness of today’s CNC machined pieces, Jesel Camshaft Belt Drives continue to lead the industry as the premiere camshaft belt drive assembly. In the never ending quest for more horsepower, engine builders in the 1970’s began using larger cam lobes which in turn required stiffer springs. The stiffer springs allowed the engine to turn more rpm, but eventually became too much for a timing chain to handle. At the time, gear drives were the only solution, but they bring with them their own set of problems. Gear drives transfer a tremendous amount of crankshaft harmonics to the valvetrain, not to mention taking incredible amounts of horsepower to drive. As necessity is the birth of most components in high performance engines, the Jesel Camshaft Belt Drive was created to solve these problems

If you need a tissue get one from your neighbor since you probably are still crumbling up news paper to wipe your ***.



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Call Jesel and have him show you his data. He either can't or won't produce it.

Again, you have no experience with a gear drive. You are just a fat mouth blowhard.
 
My motor has a 686 solid roller cam. A chain worked just fine for close to 8 years. No slack at all when removed. $340.00 for my new chain with billet gears special ordered from Cloyes. .005 over size sprockets. I used the old Rollmaster chain and sprockets in the brown Duster. fit perfect on that used engine.


Well the king has spoken. Let's all bow to his world.

I can tel you I've used many gear drives, never had any issue. When making 2 HP/CID or more, shifting at 8500 or more (which I know you say you've done but you lie so who knows what to believe...and your super trick oiling fixes that you never tell anyone about...that's a laugher) and using a clutch, you'll see how quickly a chain is worthless.

Again, go to YouTube and watch what happens to a chain, any chain, under load and tell me you cam timing is the same as you set it on the engine stand. It's not.

BTW, if you actually did some research, there are many out there who now know the answer is to use dampers on the cam. But you're to smart to bother with stuff like that.
 
Just my experience. It's cheap money.


All I can say is that I found out through my 44 years of racing is it isn’t necessary. And I race a lot. I will see how the chain in my 4 year old low 9 second small block looks when I rebuild over the winter. Ohhh I never waste money on a tensioner either. I timed it on start up and haven’t had a timing light on it since as it’s still running exactly the same Ets 4 years later.
 
All I can say is that I found out through my 44 years of racing is it isn’t necessary. And I race a lot. I will see how the chain in my 4 year old low 9 second small block looks when I rebuild over the winter. Ohhh I never waste money on a tensioner either. I timed it on start up and haven’t had a timing light on it since as it’s still running exactly the same Ets 4 years later.


Then we can agree to disagree. Again, the argument isn't what is better, or more accurate. It's what cheaper and what gets you by. And I'm good with that. Those of us who use them understand what they are and what they do.

My cam timing will be exactly the same 10 years from now.

I also call bullshit on guys running chains with roller springs (say something over 320 on the seat for a decent cam) and putting two, three or more years on them and then tell me they haven't stretched. I've never seen that. On any brand engine.

Even lowly Chevy bracket guys use shaft rockers and a timing belt, yet the Chrysler guys still run junk crap, SS springs, pinion snubbers and the like. Just doesn't make sense to me.
 
I also call bullshit on guys running chains with roller springs (say something over 320 on the seat for a decent cam) and putting two, three or more years on them and then tell me they haven't stretched. I've never seen that. On any brand engine.
about 8 years on mine with over 320 on the seat. Chain was like the day we installed it. You just have to know how to properly fit the chain to your Cam to crank spread. That is why they make special order sprockets in different sizes. A loose chain will just get looser from stretch. A tight chain will gull and wear faster. Guys that don't know how to do this . Just throw a power robbing gear drive on it.

I will never use a gear drive. If in the budget I would go to a belt because of less reciprocating weight and harmonics are lower then a chain. Aren't you the same guy that swears by a aluminum flywheel because of less weight you have to spin. If someone would say they use a lightened damper yours would be lead filled.

Like the guy above he used his for 4 years . You came back that yours is on for 10 years. If he would have said 10 years yours would be 15. Get real "yellow fish with no teeth just lips"

I use a chain with these springs and never stretched a chain yet. I had a rollmaster now I went with a special order Cloyes. I am glad the PO is going with a chain. He used common sense.

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about 8 years on mine with over 320 on the seat. Chain was like the day we installed it. You just have to know how to properly fit the chain to your Cam to crank spread. That is why they make special order sprockets in different sizes. A loose chain will just get looser from stretch. A tight chain will gull and wear faster. Guys that don't know how to do this . Just throw a power robbing gear drive on it.

I will never use a gear drive. If in the budget I would go to a belt because of less reciprocating weight and harmonics are lower then a chain. Aren't you the same guy that swears by a aluminum flywheel because of less weight you have to spin. If someone would say they use a lightened damper yours would be lead filled.

Like the guy above he used his for 4 years . You came back that yours is on for 10 years. If he would have said 10 years yours would be 15. Get real "yellow fish with no teeth just lips"

I use a chain with these springs and never stretched a chain yet. I had a rollmaster now I went with a special order Cloyes. I am glad the PO is going with a chain. He used common sense.

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God speaks again. God is the ONLY one who knows how to install a timing chain. God is great. All bow to God almighty.
 
Are all of you guys retired. Or do you all work midnight shift. Thank God you aren’t engine builders and have guys waiting for their engines. Lol
 
I am retired . since 2005. All us old mopar guys hang out here looking at the young girls as they show up for the parties up stairs. Some girls walk through with just one feather on and two pasties. That feather doesn't cover much. And when they shoot pool it doesn't cover anything from the rear at all. That's at thanksgiving when they show up as Indians when its cold out. Summer weekends there is standing room only in the garage. My chair is at the bottom of the steps. I have that area well lit shining up the stairs so they don't trip. 1969383valiant always gets here early. LOL
 
I dunno... I have a Cloyes Double roller in mine... Over, 40,000 miles later, daily driven and many 1000+ mile trips after my rebuild. I still maintain timing and have no issues...
Now, with the money I saved I just went ahead and bought a set of ported big valve 340 J-heads for $200 from a local Mopar fanatic to replace my tired, worn 308 heads (over 250K miles on them).
 
Midnight worker. Awake and not awake all day....
I always worked the night shift so I could work and play all day on my toys. Now for some reason it doesn't matter when I go to sleep. I wake up a 3:30 AM. I always start yawning at around 2:00 in the afternoon.
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll ignore it like I do the rest of crap you post.
:rofl:

Yea! Ha ha ha, theres a good one.

Do tell us all abot how the world is doing it wrong again. Please!

All you have is a reputation of bulling your way through topics in an unrelenting rude know it all manor.
 
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Plenty of engines come the factory with camshaft gear drive and EFI.
 
Oldmanmopar, could you go through the process of measuring to get the perfect gear size for the timing chain, right now I'm running a Cloyes true roller with a tensioner. Right now my engine is apart, re-ring, bearings, cylinder hone and deck, was just going to replace cam and heads! The Tensioner worked fine, no wear and kept good time, it has been on for about 8000 miles. It's a 52000 mile 340.

Jeff
 
measure the distance between the cam and crank center-line. There is a standard measurement for this distance. There are three sprocket sizes available. Standard .005 and .010 over size. The factory adding the tension-er gave themselves a greater tolerance. Less junk blocks when the cam tunnel or line bore was out of spec. Or if when the cheap timing sets themselves were out of spec. It was an easy fix so they could use bad parts or improper machined parts. The tension-er was all about saving parts which ultimately saved them money. You can move the shafts together you cannot spread them apart.

Worn cam or main bearings may cause a standard chain to be loose. A tension-er may take the slack out. but its just a band-aid for other problems.

When my son removed my .005 chain set from my race motor. I installed on a stock 318 it fit perfect. Remember there are times when a chain is loose do to cam bearing wear. or tight if the crank dropped. Did any of you ever install a new chain set and it had slack from day one. Usually 80% of the time it is cam bearing wear. There is constant pressure pushing the cam downward from the valve spring pressure. This wears the bottom of the cam bearings which puts the cam closer to the crank. Or the cap bearings on the mains when they wear the chain is tight when installing it.

The next time my son fits a chain set. I will take some pictures . This is his expertise he has built a lot of race motors. I only learned this from him. Years back I would throw the timing set on line up the dots and good to go. He gets to involved ,I wouldn't have the patience for measuring and then waiting for another chain set.
 
Including the one of the original Hot Rod engines- the ford flathead (though w/o efi)!


Well that is funny that you mention flat head with a gear drive.

My mom always said I have a flat head
My dad called me a gear head
My wife says I make more noise then I"m worth
And ever since I broke the chain on my bicycle peddling up hill while standing
My friends call me a nut case
My grandpa whooped me with a fan belt for stealing his rolling papers.
Thank the lord my grandma never heard the word Camshaft when I called my sister and ***.
 
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