First time start - no go

Bl1zzard said

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I've checked and rechecked the plugs are wired up properly, #1 cylinder was at TDC with rotor pointing to #1, firing order has been checked and rechecked. I think it's the voltage at the coil. So is it the regulator, ballast resistor or the ECU I should be looking at next?

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That ignition setup procedure has a 50-50 chance to be wrong, and it is not adequate. With #1 at TDC, #6 is also at TDC and so either #1 or #6 can be firing. You have to look at the valves with #1/#6 at TDC. If both #1 valves are slightly open, then #1 is at the overlap (ending exhaust stroke and starting intake stroke) and #1 is NOT firing; #6 is firing then.

So you need to take off at least the valve cover on the left side and check valves when at #1/#6 TDC. When #1/#6 at TDC, turn the engine back and forth with a socket or breaker bar on the snout bolt; if the #1 valves are moving as you do this, then point the rotor at #6 and rewire for the right firing order. The misfiring and sputtering could well be due to this being backwards.

What ballast resistor do you have? Is is a stock original coil and ballast or ????

Your cranking voltage at coil+ should equal the battery voltage which is probably going to sag to around 10V when cranking, but for sure should not be 4v to ground. You probably have the starting bypass circuit not hooked up (which is what puts full battery voltage to coil + when cranking). Do as B6P suggest and jump 12v direct to coil + while cranking; once started, you can pull the jumper off and it ought to stay running. If all else is good, then you will typically have 6-9 volts at coil+ when running normally with the proper coil and ballast resistor.

Don't worry about the regulator right now... that sets the alternator output voltage when running.

Is the rest of your wiring known good or is it unknown?