r55nls2002
Member
It need better exhaust all together. I was trying to avoid that for the time being.
Oil filter
- Thread starter r55nls2002
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Then you need to fix it. Looks like may be the filter was installed and the pipe bent and installed. It sounded like you were looking for suggestions on how to remove the filter after it hit the exhaust pipe. Just trying to help.
The 90° adapter should point rearward and then down about 10° from horizontal....
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I too never had leaks with the 90 adapter. Just rebuilt my motor with Felpro kit. Still no leaks. If you go shorter filter you can always screw another on half way between oil changes and add a 1/2 quart of oil.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Make sure the outer edge of the adapter is not catching on the block, so it won't seat flush on it's mount. I had to use a die grinder on mine. I also cleaned up the oil passages on the 90* adapter before installing it, and used the Superformance gaskets.
ps: You guys with expensive engines should be using Jomar 100% No Bypass oil filters. Why? Because they filter 100% of the oil 100% of the time.
All other oil filters bypass an awful lot of oil while the motor is running. That means a significant amount of your engine oil is effectively not filtered, and that's no bueno.
http://jomarperformance.com/wordpress/?page_id=2
ps: You guys with expensive engines should be using Jomar 100% No Bypass oil filters. Why? Because they filter 100% of the oil 100% of the time.
All other oil filters bypass an awful lot of oil while the motor is running. That means a significant amount of your engine oil is effectively not filtered, and that's no bueno.
http://jomarperformance.com/wordpress/?page_id=2
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Ever check the pressure drop across any filters? If you did, you'd use the biggest filter you can get.
It's amazing how butt hurt some guys get over nothing. Use what you want. Just don't tell me how good it is.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
as already mentioned i'd alter the exhaust, you only need to add probably a quarter inch to the length of the downpipe where it comes down from the manifold. or if you have access to a lathe just turn up a quarter inch spacer to go between the manifold and downpipe with male and female tapers on it. either should do it.
third and simplest option is dent the downpipe for clearance. don't worry about the dent hurting performance either, just watch the 'engine masters' video about denting headers. plus you already said you will be redoing the exhaust in the future so....
neil.
third and simplest option is dent the downpipe for clearance. don't worry about the dent hurting performance either, just watch the 'engine masters' video about denting headers. plus you already said you will be redoing the exhaust in the future so....
neil.
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
I guess I better go out and change my filters right away! I've been running the small one on my big block race car for about 10 years now. Have one on my street car that I run the dog **** out of for about 15 year too. It hasn't been a problem yet so I think I'll stick with I know works. Carry on.
Hellrats
Just another dumbass
Don't know where you come off with all that. But yea, I think I will keep using what I want. Just trying to help someone out.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I got because your saying how long you've been doing it and gave me the red X. Not like I care, but again, you got butt hurt.
Do what you want. Why not run the big filter and fix what's wrong with it? Or, you can just use the short filter, and give up some flow.
Of course, you've never tested it so you don't know what you don't know.
I was looking at that jomar filter it doesn't give any dimensions but it looks like the long one ? do you know for sure ?
r55nls2002
Member
Thank you all. I will try to massage the exhaust a little. If that does not do what I need to do then I will try the 90 degree adapter. I really don't want to replace the exhaust at the moment because there are other areas of the car that could use the attention.
Does anyone off hand have a link to the right gaskets?
Does anyone off hand have a link to the right gaskets?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Reading that article, I’m not understanding the pressure drop...when using the Jomar filter, at an 8 lb pressure drop, is that 8 lbs less of total engine oil pressure?
The pressure drop is measured at the before and after the oil goes through the filter. So you will need two pressure gauges. The stock oil pressure gauge up top the engine is after the filter. Now you need to find or make a spot to check the pressure going into the filter.
I don’t think it a big deal for a stock or mildly hopped up engine, but if it means a lot to you, then check, try out filters (since no filter of worth was named by those who quibble about it as an issue) and please do so report back.
You could probably cut down on the amount of filters purchased for the trials but looking at the manufacturers web sites. You may be surprised at what you find in print and reality.
I don’t think it a big deal for a stock or mildly hopped up engine, but if it means a lot to you, then check, try out filters (since no filter of worth was named by those who quibble about it as an issue) and please do so report back.
You could probably cut down on the amount of filters purchased for the trials but looking at the manufacturers web sites. You may be surprised at what you find in print and reality.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
@rumblefish360 ,
In this picture, is this where the measurement would be taken to get the BEFORE the filter reading?
That is one of those K&P filters if anyone is wondering.
In this picture, is this where the measurement would be taken to get the BEFORE the filter reading?
That is one of those K&P filters if anyone is wondering.
On my Cobra replica, I went with a remote oil filter mount. Mounted the filter behind the fenderwell because there was no room off of the block. Put the adapter on the block, ran braided lines to the filter and the oil cooler. Can now reach the filter easily. Might be a consideration and you can probably get the remote kit cheaper than you can get the 90 degree adapter.
Where the oil filter mounts, the block, behind the screw the filter screws onto and behind the plate are the in and out ports of the oil flows Katy in and out of the filter. That is where you would want to tap into.
To do this, you will need to remove the plate and set up external oil lines as if feeding a remote filter and install 2 gauges, 1 on each line, which will be before and after the filter. Of course.
To do this, you will need to remove the plate and set up external oil lines as if feeding a remote filter and install 2 gauges, 1 on each line, which will be before and after the filter. Of course.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
It is the same size as the normal long filter, just like a Fram PH8A.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I never worried about measuring anyone else's filters in relation to pressure drop. Filters either filter all the oil all the time or bypass some. I simply want all my oil filtered all the time.
I had a valve train instability issue a few years back. All the needle bearinga & cages on my intake valve rockers disintegrated and went into the motor and pan. Not one spec of them went into the oil passages. My bearings were still like new. The filter caught all of it. I believe that would not have been the case with a bypass style oil filter.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Yes, now that makes perfect sense. Thank you.
@jbc426 I agree there. A lot depends on what your doing and why you would want it that way. Full time filtration is IMO a great thing for most cases. Now if your racing and you feel that there is a good reason to run a bypassing filter, I’m not going to argue it with anybody.
I don’t know how much of a pressure drop there is between filters of part and full time oiling but there is also differences in oil between the assigned numbers of weight, viscosity and brands, synthetic or dinosaur, and probably the additives within.
But I don’t know. What I’m concerned with is what the gauge is reading post filter. I don’t run heavy oil. I run tight clearances to reduce the labeled oil numbers.
The only thing I can think of, which depending on how you see it, is the amount of stress the oil pump see’s due to restrictions and oil weights, which is rarely a problem if ever. As in pump breakage. HP & Tq loose is another hair to split and choice to make.
I don’t know how much of a pressure drop there is between filters of part and full time oiling but there is also differences in oil between the assigned numbers of weight, viscosity and brands, synthetic or dinosaur, and probably the additives within.
But I don’t know. What I’m concerned with is what the gauge is reading post filter. I don’t run heavy oil. I run tight clearances to reduce the labeled oil numbers.
The only thing I can think of, which depending on how you see it, is the amount of stress the oil pump see’s due to restrictions and oil weights, which is rarely a problem if ever. As in pump breakage. HP & Tq loose is another hair to split and choice to make.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Interesting article.... but it does not appear to be reality relative to how things actually operate. The test pump flow was 8.5 gpm into presumably a wide open return, and not into any sort of engine system where the flow gets restricted. The chance of any SBM accepting 8.5 gpm of flow is about 0.0000001% LOL. IIRC, the SBM HV pumps flow maybe 5 gpm at higher RPM's and in reality, the engine itself restricts the flow to a lower flow number. So the pressure drops reported in this article simply aren't applicable to how things really operate with these engines.
Based on all that, the idea that filter with bypasses are bypassing a lot of oil all the time is just not reality. I have not looked into the filter media size of these Jomar filters to see what they are relative to typical media size; that is another effect on actual filtering.
And as for using smaller filters, yes, one would expect more drop, but most street uses are not pushing the filter capacity anyway.
LOL! If a stock cardboard Fram can take an easy 6.5 K spinning for a while, then 99% of the rest should show a major improvement!
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I don't use them now but my stock 340 with a freshened valve job at 100K went from 100k to 200k on Fram PH8A's !
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yeah.. I raced forever on them! Much smaller engine and pump however... and that was a coupla decades ago.
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