Headers

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Crap I got so used to disagreeing with you I got out of control...
Wait a minute if they're exactly the same tell me why you spend so much on them to get the same? Wait a minute don't answer that...lol...
2 disagrees from you today...and I ignored them both :)
Just take a minute and look at the drivers side header in this video I made. You'll see right away how it fits, and how much room and how easy #5 & #7 plugs are to get too, and routing the plug wires. Again, running your type of headers for years and years are the reason I went back to manifolds. Dougs are the reason I may install them on my other Duster also...
Basic Header install tips for 1st timers
 
Post 96 - fitment and quality. I can tell you from personal experience of installing all sorts of cheapies, and then the Dougs. Here are the benefits of Dougs:
  • MUCH better fitment on driver's side
  • MUCH easier access on the #5 & 7 spark plugs
  • MUCH easier to route #5 & #7 plug wires.
  • More room to remove starter (I changed my starter on my car from start to finish in 20 minutes and didn't even have to loosen the header).
  • A lot more ground clearance as headers are above the centerlink
  • Thicker flanges for sure, meaning longer life and better header gasket sealing (not sure on the tube thickness)
I never had trouble with fitment on my driver side as I just lower the motor onto the header..
I've never had any trouble with my 5 or 7 plugs or wires...
I've had no trouble start changing my starter whatsoever. Although also I only changed it once since I've owned the car..
For some people one inch is a lot..lol...:poke:.. (a lot more ground clearance LOL)
just how long are you expecting these to live? The thicker flanges they make them heavier and lose a tenth at the track LOL..
I use remflex gaskets and never have had any leaks ever...
 
I never had trouble with fitment on my driver side as I just lower the motor onto the header..
I've never had any trouble with my 5 or 7 plugs or wires...
I've had no trouble start changing my starter whatsoever. Although also I only changed it once since I've owned the car..
For some people one inch is a lot..lol...:poke:.. (a lot more ground clearance LOL)
just how long are you expecting these to live? The thicker flanges they make them heavier and lose a tenth at the track LOL..
I use remflex gaskets and never have had any leaks ever...
I'm not being a salesman. I don't care what type of header you or anyone runs. LOL. I was trying to share with the OP that Dougs and TTI's aren't about hp, but rather fitment and quality.
 
I think they do but stainless would be the ultimate. I just don't care for the coated headers . Never had luck with the coating not chipping off and then you have rust anyway.
I agree, this is why I bought my dougs uncoated and just paint them,easy to touch up if needed and not break the bank.
 
I'm not being a salesman. I don't care what type of header you or anyone runs. LOL. I was trying to share with the OP that Dougs and TTI's aren't about hp, but rather fitment and quality.
I did TTI here are some pictures and fitment was not any better than some others. Just at different places. But they were large tube and 3 inch pipes so that could have been the issue. If I do headers they have to be race headers unless they are free or real cheap. I mean bare and just paint with Barbi-Q paint. Here is the Demon we did . I believe the total cost was $1600 for the headers and pipes. Way to much for my pocket and they still hit the steering shaft. and dented in at a couple areas. Without steel mounts at an idle they sounded like The last MRI that I had at the Hospital.

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Look at the steering shaft rubbing. We tried moving the column and shimming the motor , No luck. we ended up having to dent the tube in. we also had to cut the corners off of the bell housing. Cut off and reverse the clutch rod, bend and move the clutch linkage. Other than a couple more spots we dented in they fit just great. LOL.

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Look at the steering shaft rubbing. We tried moving the column and shimming the motor , No luck. we ended up having to dent the tube in.

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Without doubt, the large tube header would pose a more difficult scenario. If you looked at the fitment of the Doug header on my car in that video above (post 101), it's amazingly clear of everything, but, a 1 5/8 headers
 
Post 96 - fitment and quality. I can tell you from personal experience of installing all sorts of cheapies, and then the Dougs. Here are the benefits of Dougs:
  • MUCH better fitment on driver's side
  • MUCH easier access on the #5 & 7 spark plugs
  • MUCH easier to route #5 & #7 plug wires.
  • More room to remove starter (I changed my starter on my car from start to finish in 20 minutes and didn't even have to loosen the header).
  • A lot more ground clearance as headers are above the centerlink
  • Thicker flanges for sure, meaning longer life and better header gasket sealing (not sure on the tube thickness)
Do they fit around the /6 to V8 motor mount conversion.
 
Do they fit around the /6 to V8 motor mount conversion.
I would think, regardless if you have the '72 & down K frame or '73 and up. I might find out if I try to install a set on my '74, obviously the spool k frame. It was a /6 now small block
 
Convenience and no performance upgrades I had no idea. Dougs are now off my radar.. I see the price of stuff like that and I'm already no way, but for some reason would always assume you would get better performance with them with bigger tubes. I think now if I was ever to afford this kind of upgrade I would definitely go to the tti's for the bang for the buck...
Well this thread has helped me..
 
Convenience and no performance upgrades I had no idea. Dougs are now off my radar.. I see the price of stuff like that and I'm already no way, but for some reason would always assume you would get better performance with them with bigger tubes. I think now if I was ever to afford this kind of upgrade I would definitely go to the tti's for the bang for the buck...
Well this thread has helped me..
I posted above, mine don't have bigger tubes. 1 5/8, same as yours. TTI makes a great product. I used their head pipes on both my Dusters with the factory manifolds. Several header companies offer bigger tube headers if that's what somebody needs.
 
Convenience and no performance upgrades I had no idea. Dougs are now off my radar.. I see the price of stuff like that and I'm already no way, but for some reason would always assume you would get better performance with them with bigger tubes. I think now if I was ever to afford this kind of upgrade I would definitely go to the tti's for the bang for the buck...
Well this thread has helped me..
I have to agree if you are doing a complete exhaust. the 3 inch pipes fit like a glove. The race headers were tight compared to the hookers but I didn't have to cut a hole in the fender wells. For the street TTI's . For the track shop built or Hooker race headers if you can find them. We are building stainless for the new Duster using stainless copying the 2 inch hookers but they will be 2 1/8 inch. My theory is you can't take in what you can't let out. The rule of the scavenger effect goes out the door with power adders. Boost or nitrous. These by far were the best headers I ever used or installed. Just my opinion

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These are the cheapest . Usually free with any parts car make them fit with a hammer. glass bead and paint and no worries if they hit the street

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Bought TTI 3 inch

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3 1/2 Race made with mufflers tailpipes and tips for street look

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Cheap home made 2 1/2 street exhaust with headers

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I have to agree if you are doing a complete exhaust. the 3 inch pipes fit like a glove. The race headers were tight compared to the hookers but I didn't have to cut a hole in the fender wells. For the street TTI's . For the track shop built or Hooker race headers if you can find them. We are building stainless for the new Duster using stainless copying the 2 inch hookers but they will be 2 1/8 inch. My theory is you can't take in what you can't let out. The rule of the scavenger effect goes out the door with power adders. Boost or nitrous. These by far were the best headers I ever used or installed. Just my opinion

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These are the cheapest . Usually free with any parts car make them fit with a hammer. glass bead and paint and no worries if they hit the street

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Bought TTI 3 inch

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3 1/2 Race made with mufflers tailpipes and tips for street look

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Cheap home made 2 1/2 street exhaust with headers

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Are you going to be able to fit 2.125 tubes in the chassis or is some (or all) of the tubes going to go out the fender?

1.875 is TIGHT on an SB A body. 2 inch made me say bad words (when you could get a 2 inch header from Hooker for the SB A body) so another .125 is going to be tight Tight TIGHT! And that's not even considering the BB, which eats up even more real estate.

That's a tough job to fit in there.
 
We are going to copy the hooker 2 inch and make them 2 1/8 . Three in side the rail 1 out. They will be tight and may hit but It is a race car . we used steel mounts. with a standard K member.

My son decided to go with a tube K-member and HDK suspension parts so we should have more room. ??
 
So realistically My build plan is 400HP street , would TTI or Dougs be over kill or is it " to each his own ". I don't mind putting out the money if its called for but at my HP would it be like a status thing.
Depending on the build details, the TTI may provide better low and mid range torque because the step up in the primaries may provide some anti-reversion.
IMO, keep this in mind when working on the engine build.

Depending on how you use the car, it may be worth buying the headers uncoated and after checking fit, send them to a shop that plazma sprays them. Swain is the only US company that advertises they'll do headers, but its an industrial process not exclusive to them.
 
Save yourself grief . They are stainless steel. They are the worst fitting headers ever, same design as hookers but much worse fit. Cannot be dented without removing from the car and oxy-ace heating and beating the crap out of them. We had to repeat this 4-5 times for clearance . No way no how will a propane torch do the job . You have to ditch the coupler for a u-joint. You end up with some beat to hell all turned blue from the heat shi ### looking headers , great for some pos ratrod , but what would expect from the chinese.
 
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