Aluminum heads

I swear the last time yr made a plug recommendation it was hotter plugs LOL

The summer I tried just running straight 92 non ethanol from the pump. As soon as the race gas send out I was starting to get some run on when I shut it off. So now for every 4 gallons of 92 I put in one gallon of 110 Sunoco. About 95.5 - 96?

LMAO, a hotter plug would be silly.


According to Hughes I should drop 1 to 1 1/2 points of compression with my aluminum heads so I should be great?..

I don’t know what your ratio is now.
Yes, you can go too cool. I opted for 170 degrees but anything colder than that, and the heater didn't work too good. If I was only driving the car during the spring and summer I could live with that. But I drive year round so I need a heater. I've driven the car in the temp was in the mid teens!!! And that's with a Strip Dominator. No icing either. That was thanksgiving 2013. Damn cold. But a nice drive as it was sunny and clear as a bell.

Screw the heater aspect. We’re talking straight up engine and power between things. An engine can run to cool r not hit enough, correct?

They're delusional. In no way shape fashion or form will you LOSE power going from iron to aluminum if all things are equal. Ain't happenin.

Have you tried this with a 7.5-1 engine to start with?

My cooling system was thoroughly researched long before I bought my first parts. I'm currently running the pump 6% over and if I could find 10% over pulleys I'd do I in a New York second.
Custom jollies can be made for a price I wouldn’t e willing to pay.

My next engine (if everything goes as planned and right now, the old ball and chain and my boy are trying to derail everything but I'm working on that) will be 12:1 on iron heads on pump gas. It's doable. I just need to spend some time doing the research first.

If the aluminum head theory is correct, I should be able to run 13.5:1 on pump gas with aluminum heads and even I don't have the balls to try that.

Thats not an issue. It’s a matter of having enough or really not to much cylinder pressure for the limited octane. To that end, it would probably end up being a cam to large for the combo or at least to effectively take advantage of the cam properly.

The combo would more than likely under perform with the various concessions to be made than what would be best for the set up.

But that’s the EZ no brainer way out.

How I would do it today would be an interesting test and application of the various tech and advancement materials that have come out since I had to stop playing around and experimenting. Oh this would be a joy to throw money at like the US government.

Quench certainly is not an end all but just another building block in the house of power. Tighter the better. The issue to be aware of is of course piston to head contact and the control of the metals stretching and wobbling around should on use a short piston.

Once you have a known metal and it’s behavior under high stress and loads during the extremes of its linear motions, (The connecting rod) AKA, lack of stretch or its growth during the various loads and conditions, you can then move the slug closer to the head.

But now that I mention that word again....
let’s get back to the head metal use issue....

How cold is to cold to effectively make good use of an engine. Where is that point of it runs like Crap-Ola and will never improve?

Is it actually possible to make it worse by using something to make it run even more horrible?