Opinion from some of you long time Mopar racers

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Les Gibson

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good morning all.

Seeking opinions from some of you heavy hitters out there who have been racing mopars for a while.

After being out of drag racing for 24 years I decided to dive back in late this summer. After a little bit of searching, I decided on a 72 Dodge Dart that was already built and turn key.

Specs on the car (as supplied by the previous owner):

360 block bored .070 over
custom 3.685 offset ground crank, internally balanced with 6" SBC small journal rods
Ross custom pistons with 13.8 compression
W2 race ported heads with 2.08 intake and 1.65 exh Manley valves. Norris stainless steel 1.6 ratio roller rockers.
Competition Cams full roller cam .646 lift @ 105, 106 centerline.
Victor intake with Holley 1050 Dominator.
MSD 7AL with crank trigger.
Hedman Husler 1 7/8 race headers
LT 727 TF with Cheetah manual reverse pattern valve body.
Turbo Action 4400 converter (allegedly, not flashing at that RPM)
Dana 60 with 5.13 gear
ladder bar rear with older Comp Engineering single adjustable coil overs ( which I have no idea how to adjust and can find no info on Comp Engineering website). Ladder bars are set on the top hole in the front brackets, which sets bottom bar of ladder bars parallel to the ground.
stock front suspension. Neither of us have any idea what shocks are on the front as there are no markings of any kind on them.
He told me engine should be producing around 600hp. He said to shift at 6800 rpm, but I'm shifting at 6500, with 7000 going through the traps on the 1/4 mile.
no idea what the car weighs, has fiberglass front fenders, hood, doors and trunk lid, all windows are lexan. I'm guessing maybe around 2200-2500.
running 32X14X15 rear slicks.
60 foot times average between 1.52 to 1.55
best 1/4 ET has been 10.62 at 124 and change.

I feel there is a lot more in this combo, he says it should be running in the 10.20s with 60 foot times in the 1.30s. We both seem to agree that the torque converter is the bad actor and it's too tight.

My question to you is do you think the converter is the issue here or perhaps something else? I haven't made any adjustments to the ladder bars or coil overs cause, frankly, I don't know where to begin with those, as I have never run that type suspension before.

Any constructive suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Planning on doing some test/tune runs next weekend before the tracks close for the season.
 
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I would be inclined to try a 950 cfm 4150 flange carburetor first and see how it affects E/T and 60 ft time. But yes, the probably generic shelf converter probably not helping a lot either.
 
It's been 24 years and how many passes have you taken with this car so far?
Also subscribe interesting and cool but honestly I'd like to see a couple pictures of the car to get me a little more jazzed-up about the subject..:thumbsup:...
 
JUst curious, Why offset grind the crank and then use a shorter than stock rod, and +.070 over? Kind of a odd dimension.
 
He said it "Should" hit 10.20's with 1.30 60ft. My question is "HAS" it run those numbers? I will say that the converter is probably stalled a little tight for an RPM capable small block. A little seat time with different start line RPM variations.
 
JUst curious, Why offset grind the crank and then use a shorter than stock rod, and +.070 over? Kind of a odd dimension.
I have no idea. He told me that he and his brother-in-law have been running this small block set up for years and it has worked well for them.
 
First thing to do is strap it to a chassis dyno and get the car weighed with you in it.

If you haven't done that, you are pissing in the wind.


Once you've done that you'll know where to shift, how to gear it and what converter it needs.

Right now we are bench racing and guessing.
 
It's been 24 years and how many passes have you taken with this car so far?
Also subscribe interesting and cool but honestly I'd like to see a couple pictures of the car to get me a little more jazzed-up about the subject..:thumbsup:...
382 Pic.jpg
Dart 1.jpg
track 2.JPG
 
Turning the journal down to run "cheap" Chevy rods. And if you're turning the journal anyway, offset for more stroke. I would have put the 6.125 rod in.
 
JUst curious, Why offset grind the crank and then use a shorter than stock rod, and +.070 over? Kind of a odd dimension.
It is weird but that was done by the previous owner maybe?
Run it through a CID calculator and see what you get.
A 383.
Depending on when the engine was built or the amount of money on hand or perhaps the parts available when built or on hand when built..... the .123 difference in the rod could have been used to get a final piston placement in the cylinder bore and IMO, it is not a big thing in the over all picture.
 
It's been 24 years and how many passes have you taken with this car so far?
Also subscribe interesting and cool but honestly I'd like to see a couple pictures of the car to get me a little more jazzed-up about the subject..:thumbsup:...
Probably done about 30 or so passes with the car, both 1/8 and 1/4 mile.
The car runs very consistently pass after pass.
last weekend at Lebanon Valley Dragway, I had 10.67, 10.67 and 10.66 back to back runs all at 124 mph.
 
The car was originally built as a B1 big block car by a gentleman on Long Island, but some years ago as the story was shared with me. Allegedly, it was a high 8/low 9 second car in it's original form. I know the chassis was certified in 2011 to 8.50.
 
Hey Les, welcome back into the drivers seat.
I’m awaiting my turn as well.
Going to Lebanon on the 27th?
 
Get the serial # of the converter and call T/A. You may be able to find out what it was built to stall at. Paul at TA is a great guy.
 
Get the serial # of the converter and call T/A. You may be able to find out what it was built to stall at. Paul at TA is a great guy.
Paul is exactly that.
Got to know him many years ago when I lived in Jacksonville, FL and was racing at Gainsville. I'm planning on pulling the converter after next weekends testing and I'll get that info.
 
If u have any slippage off the line their in lies ur problem. I do agree that u may have too much carb or not a good tune. Also the converter should be a minimum flash stall of 5000. TA is a dam good converter. Like mentioned above, get the numbers and get them checked. Kim
 
The moroso chart shows 10.68 for 124mph.

Not much ET left without finding some additional HP(or MPH) imo.

A question mark for potential HP improvements will be....... how good are the heads?

Get it weighed with you in it.
 
Seems to run consistent. That is a good thing
If its light say 2800 with you in it, might be making 500 horsepower as it sitting, based on MPH
I suspect the convertor is way off, that would effect ET no doubt.
Just really depends on if the heads are good or not. If the car is light and they are, car should run 9’s easily
Buddy had smallblock B1BA heads he ran a few years back in a 2400 pound Cuda and the car ran 9 teens in the summer. Those heads arent near as good as good W2’s are
Lots of unknowns you have
 
TA 4400 series should be flashing close to 5300 rpm behind a 360.....got two of them ....
 
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