Stiff front end looking at aftermarket solutions

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I believe they are all RMS....upper A arms...and 2 of the 3 are RMS strut rods...one car has QA1 strut rods...
 
If you dont tighten everything in the correct sequence and with all the weight on it you will end up with a stiff ride.
 
we also have fiberglass hoods....fiberglass bumpers and light weight aluminum brackets
 
mbaird said:
If you dont tighten everything in the correct sequence and with all the weight on it you will end up with a stiff ride.
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With Hyme (sp) joint upper control arms and strut rod.......this won't be as critical if i go this way, this time.
 
Ima thinking to block the car up, remove the wheels, push the T-bars back; and cycle the suspension up and down (shocks off of course), and find out where the noises and sticksion are coming from. You may have to also remove the strutrods.I think when you find the noise that you will simultaneously find the sticksion.
To me, it kindof sounds like your UCA bushings are spinning in the arms, but in any case, cycling the suspension as above will get to the bottom of it.
 
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I would turn down the torsion bar adjusters a couple of turns or more before changing any parts. Mine was stiff after I put the new engine in with the heads and radiator replaced with aluminum and two turns looser really improved the ride and lowered it back to where it was before the light weight parts
 
To get as much Up Travel i have turned mine down until its almost at the bump stop.
 
Cudafever said:
To get as much Up Travel i have turned mine down until its almost at the bump stop.
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Wait what? If that is true; then of course by your push-down test, it will be stiff, as the suspension has almost no where to go, and the T-bars have very little preload on them..... so basically the bumpstops are bouncing it back up, and then the chassis lands back on the stops halting downward progress; and the noise we hear is the bumpstops complaining about it.

In this instance,I can't see your push-down test being valid.
 
We need a new test.
I'm thinking to get the chassis up high enough to let the wheels hang. Then push the T-bars out. Then, shocks still off; jack the wheel up somehow to then just rip the jack out and watch the wheel fall down in freefall.
What'll that tell you? Idk, I'm not a racer, but I'll watch that video at least 10 times lol.
Remember to leave enough shock on it, for landing,lol.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Wait what? If that is true; then of course by your push-down test, it will be stiff, as the suspension has almost no where to go, and the T-bars have very little preload on them..... so basically the bumpstops are bouncing it back up, and then the chassis lands back on the stops halting downward progress; and the noise we hear is the bumpstops complaining about it.
In this instance,I can't see your push-down test being valid.
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When i get after this project i will take a video of how much it takes to move the suspension without torsion bar and shock.
then i will do another one with my new part..........Stickson is not good. Smooth and free is much better.
I would like to use some sort of measuring device like a fish scale.........think i would max the scale out with my current setup.

AJ/FormS said:
We need a new test.
I'm thinking to get the chassis up high enough to let the wheels hang. Then push the T-bars out. Then, shocks still off; jack the wheel up somehow to then just rip the jack out and watch the wheel fall down in freefall.
What'll that tell you? Idk, I'm not a racer, but I'll watch that video at least 10 times lol.
Remember to leave enough shock on it, for landing,lol.
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:lol:You some crazy man
 
Cudafever said:
There site say HIGH quality ball joints.

hope 70aarcuda will give his opinion on his upper control arms
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I wouldn't spend a dime on a 90/10 shock for anything. You can't adjust the bump and rebound seperately. That is worthless. Spend a bit more and get a double adjustable shock. It's 2020 already and guys still use 1970's technology.

Do yourself a favor and buy better shocks. For both ends.
 
I would like to use some sort of measuring device like a fish scale.........think i would max the scale out with my current setup.



Use a bathroom scale between your floor jack and the lower control arm
 
mbaird said:
I would like to use some sort of measuring device like a fish scale.........think i would max the scale out with my current setup.



Use a bathroom scale between your floor jack and the lower control arm
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Good idea!!:thumbsup:
 
I’ve got my wife’s Challenger running 11s
I crawled all over a B/SA Challenger with a 440 six pack running mid 10s, bought there old springs that got the wheelie award at that NHRA event, I think it was averaging 110’ it didn’t get there by loosening the suspension.
Minimal suspension drop, and stiffening is what got the weight transfer.
 
When i bought my car it was 19 sec car
throughout the years i have worked it down to a high 11 sec car.

Agree the faster, aks the better 60 foot time you get out of your car, the more "stiff" it need to be to slow down the reactions of the rear and front suspension.

I fill the suspension should be as free moving, as possible, and let the shock control the level of stiff.
I could run the car without shocks and it would work better right now.............

I think working over the from suspension is my next step in performance potential at the track.

I keep throwing more power at the car.....power has now overcome the basicly stock suspension.

Cut the factory wheel tubs out and put even bigger slicks or make the suspension work better.
 
ordered upper control arms from RMK
will be ordering the strut rod soon
 
My E-body chassis manual for front end alignments say
1/8" toe in
left caster +1/2 degree
right caster+1/4 degree
Caster (w p/s)+3/4 degree

With a race car only. what spec would you/ should you change.
Drag Racing car
 
Cudafever said:
My E-body chassis manual for front end alignments say
1/8" toe in
left caster +1/2 degree
right caster+1/4 degree
Caster (w p/s)+3/4 degree

With a race car only. what spec would you/ should you change.
Drag Racing car
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As much caster as you can get and live with.

And you better check for things like bump steer and chamber gain when changing control arms like that.

Geometry matters and if it ain't right will be a killer. Literally.
 
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