Hot Fuel Lines

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Wait a second. My post said "thru the sub frame or sub frame connectors, to get the FUEL LINE "OUTSIDE" AWAY FROM THE HEADERS". Not all the way up thru the frame. Your saying "that would be lots of work and "more bends in the line which would cause "more pressure in the lines".
A clean bend does NOT cause "more pressure"
Now you think building some guards and removing the headers would be less work, NO WAY !

What 4 people have said move the line away from the exhaust.
He wants more sheilding instead.
It might take a day to do it right or fight with it all winter putting on sheilding that next summer holds more heat around the fuel line than originally.
Move the line.
 
Was wondering if anyone else has ever ran into this issue. Im working on my 66 Dart with a 408. With the build I did I replaced the factory fuel lines with 1/2" aluminum lines and added a return line back to tank. My system goes from tank and runs up the inside of the frame connectors. Then it goes up into the engine compartment past the oil filter area on the inner fender. Runs up the inner fender to the front where it goes into a regulator. From the regulator it goes to the Carb while a second line runs from the regulator back to the tank right beside the delivery line.
My exhaust creates to much heat for these lines that it starts to vapor lock the fuel from feeding up the line. It doesnt start until after I go about 10 miles and then if the car sits it wont start back up until it cools off. Ive hit the fuel lines with my infra red and they get as high as 140+.
So I ordered some heat reflectant wrap that is good to 1100* and Im going to wrap the fuel lines. My exhaust is closest at the muffler where the clearance is about 4" away. The extensions pipes are probably 12" or so away.
Ive added 2 pics of the underside so you can see the fuel lines. Let me know if you think covering the fuel lines will help this or do I have to try something else.
Rod
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I`ve been skipping this post, but u should have thot of that when u put it together. I insulated mine in the build -------------now u know .
 
OK...…..I (the old dude) went to the garage and looked under mine.
I have been saying "run the line thru the frame" Well I have added sub frame connectors.
Now I telling you the easy way I did mine.
The line goes outside the frame rail BEFORE IT GETS TO THE TRANNY CROSSMEMBER!
Them it goes thru the inner front fender panel with a nice rubber grommet.
Done and it will pass tech.
 
Donnie514, any pics you can post, is the line exposed to the inner well??
Thanks Rod
 
Well good morning. Try to help ya here. I reread your first post and my photos would be different do to the fact that in the 70"s there was not many cell phones with cameras and not many SD cards so you could do your own photos. My A Body is a 70 Duster. looks like your 66 model came with frame rails, well my Duster did not so we will make this a little different. We are talking when I drag raced it was in the 70's and 80"s. They did not sell "frame connectors" back then so when the car started to buckle I made my own out of some really stout channel iron. My frame connectors do not go up and meet the floor board so about a foot in front of the front spring mount I went up and over the frame connector. I looked again at your photos and yours looks fantastic intel you get up near the transmission cross member. You need to go thru the frame back just before your drive shaft loop. Probably or maybe just the pressure line the return may be OK as is. Drill the inside hole, then go forward 12 or so inches and drill the exit hole so as NO 90 DEGREE BENDS here and a hell of a lot easier to do. Repeat run the line thru the frame at a angle so no sharp bends. Like this thing....in % out.... Take a long punch, for leverage, put it in the hole and bend the sides of the hole in on the rear and it will bend out on the front so as not to scratch up that aluminum line. Buy the way are you running 1/2 inch line? Major overkill, no need. 3/8's would do fine.
Now in my photo's this is no longer a full blown race car. I a am old, to old for that stuff. That's what took me so long to get back to ya. The fuel cell, electric pump and regulator are all off the car, along with most other full race stuff. But I am happy cause it is a hell of a street car, and except for the gas tank I kept all original parts. Only has 14,000 miles on it.
The photo's I took are the drivers side. I can not get to the other side very easy at the moment. On my car there is another frame type (body support) below the area like where the windshield is under the hood spring and I went straight thru that, like the emergency brake cable is shown in one of my photos. Then I ran it up behind the tire and into the engine compartment in front of the upper control arm, as a photo shows. The three little holes on the fender well were either for the regulator or the cool can mounting. Yes I said cool can. (old school)
I hope that I helped ya out. Been following your post for a long time. Love your car, just wanted to help and have you stop chasing something I thought that I could do some good.
And now I hope all these photos upload.
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One, thing that I can add to this is that the cool carb plate under the carb appears to be made of metal. Get you one of those 1/2" thick insulating gaskets for the carburetor between that plate and the manifold and it should help keep your fuel bowls cooler. Also, wrap your header in the area of your fuel line. It won't look pretty, but it'll keep a lot of heat off the line. Maybe a temporary fix until you try rerouting things.
 
LivewireBlanco, Im not sure what you were seeing but the carb cool plate is made of a hard fiber heat resistant reflective material. I also already have a thick carb gasket between the carb and plate because of needing clearance for the linkage.
So to all that have offered suggestions and i do appreciate each one, heres where i am at. Its going to be put away for the winter and during this time I plan on removing the intake and heads. This will mean the headers will be dropped which is going to allow me to build guards to cover the lines in the places I can not get to at this time.
The reason for needing to tear it down is to install my set of aluminum edelbrock heads and my edelbrock 2X4 set up.
Hopefully when im done all issues will have gone away!
Thanks Rodney
 
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