Decluttering the stock 318

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dlogretsud72

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So, I'm decluttering my original stock 318 w/ 904 in my 1972 Gold Duster. Was wondering if some of the more knowledgeable techs know what pulley set & belt length that I'll need when I remove the A/C. I have a spare Edelbrock performer intake and Holley 4 barrel carb to reinstall on it, and dress her up a bit ....those are my plans. I'm researching a good header set, which I hear is frustrating to install on the drivers side. I have a 360 w/ 340 J heads that I'll be building as I drive this 43,000 mile car. Would you do a cam on the 318? I have mostly everything for the 360 except a new cam. Anybody got any good information that I could use before I tackle this job?

20191022_172103.jpg
 
So, I'm decluttering my original stock 318 w/ 904 in my 1972 Gold Duster. Was wondering if some of the more knowledgeable techs know what pulley set & belt length that I'll need when I remove the A/C. I have a spare Edelbrock performer intake and Holley 4 barrel carb to reinstall on it, and dress her up a bit ....those are my plans. I'm researching a good header set, which I hear is frustrating to install on the drivers side. I have a 360 w/ 340 J heads that I'll be building as I drive this 43,000 mile car. Would you do a cam on the 318? I have mostly everything for the 360 except a new cam. Anybody got any good information that I could use before I tackle this job?

View attachment 1715414649
You can buy what you need right off ebay through CRV. Or, look for factory single groove pulleys for small block. probably need alt bracket as well.
 
You will need a 2 groove crank pulley if you have power steering, and a non AC water pump pulley. You will also need a non AC alternator bracket and bolts. Your power steering belt should be the same, and just ask for a non AC alternator belt at the parts store.
 
You will need a 2 groove crank pulley if you have power steering, and a non AC water pump pulley. You will also need a non AC alternator bracket and bolts. Your power steering belt should be the same, and just ask for a non AC alternator belt at the parts store.

Thanks, I do have the power steering pump.
 
Converting the a/c set up to the non a/c set up:


alternator mounting bracket... You will need this one as the a/c mount has the alternator bracket incorporated into it....

Alternator Mounting Kit

5251 alternator brackets - Bouchillon Performance Engineering


Crankshaft pulley with p/s:

Crankshaft Pulley with Power Steering w/o AC

BPE Double-Groove Crankshaft Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering



Water pump pulley:

Water Pump Pulley w/o AC

BPE Water Pump Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering


Then you will need a single groove alternator pulley for everything to line up properly with the pulleys as the a/c system uses a double pulley set up:

Single Groove Alternator Pulley

BPE Single Groove Alternator Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering
 
Converting the a/c set up to the non a/c set up:


alternator mounting bracket... You will need this one as the a/c mount has the alternator bracket incorporated into it....

Alternator Mounting Kit

5251 alternator brackets - Bouchillon Performance Engineering


Crankshaft pulley with p/s:

Crankshaft Pulley with Power Steering w/o AC

BPE Double-Groove Crankshaft Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering



Water pump pulley:

Water Pump Pulley w/o AC

BPE Water Pump Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering


Then you will need a single groove alternator pulley for everything to line up properly with the pulleys as the a/c system uses a double pulley set up:

Single Groove Alternator Pulley

BPE Single Groove Alternator Pulley - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

Wow! Good information. Thanks krazykuda
 
This is what I did on my (318) '71 Dart GT.

Here is a picture of the factory original setup:
AC original picture.jpg



and a drawing of the original components, pulleys, and belts layout
AC original drawing.jpg



I then purchased (from Ebay) another set of (altermator/AC compressor) brackets


AC modified picture.jpg



and made some cuts.
26157060011_large.jpg



I purchased another power steering belt (Federal PS pump) and installed it as shown
26157060012_large.jpg



Here is the drawing of the modified components, pulleys, and belts layout
AC modified drawing.jpg



I then replaced the cut down (Ebay pruchased) front bracket. I used a small block chevy chrome alternator adjusting arm fit/cut to my needs
26157060014_large.jpg

14139346_654031398095945_285846744_o.jpg



Here is what it looks like today(ish) with several thousand miles on it.
DSCN8190.JPG
 
Last edited:
This is what I did on my (318) '71 Dart GT.

Here is a picture of the factory original setup:
View attachment 1715414699


and a drawing of the original components, pulleys, and belts layout
View attachment 1715414700


I then purchased (from Ebay) another set of (altermator/AC compressor) brackets


View attachment 1715414715


and made some cuts.
View attachment 1715414701


I purchased another power steering belt (Federal PS pump) and installed it as shown
View attachment 1715414702


Here is the drawing of the modified components, pulleys, and belts layout
View attachment 1715414705


I then replaced the cut down (Ebay pruchased) front bracket. I used a small block chevy chrome alternator adjusting arm fit/cut to my needs
View attachment 1715414709
View attachment 1715414710


Here is what it looks like today(ish) with several thousand miles on it.
View attachment 1715414712
Wow! I can't get this kind of information from my circle of car guys. Mopar must be pretty special because most can only talk about Chevy or Ford. I've always like my mopars. Thanks for the pics. I work in a machine shop and these brackets don't look like they would be hard to make if I had the specs, but removing and cutting away the A/C bracket looks pretty simple.
 
So, I'm decluttering my original stock 318 w/ 904 in my 1972 Gold Duster. Was wondering if some of the more knowledgeable techs know what pulley set & belt length that I'll need when I remove the A/C. I have a spare Edelbrock performer intake and Holley 4 barrel carb to reinstall on it, and dress her up a bit ....those are my plans. I'm researching a good header set, which I hear is frustrating to install on the drivers side. I have a 360 w/ 340 J heads that I'll be building as I drive this 43,000 mile car. Would you do a cam on the 318? I have mostly everything for the 360 except a new cam. Anybody got any good information that I could use before I tackle this job?

View attachment 1715414649

For headers, go with Doug's or TTI... They are the best fit and won't hang below the k-frame to be bent on daily driving...

Watch the online Autozone discounts to get the doug's at a reasonable price, it will save you about $150 - $200....

The headers may require you to run a mini starter from the later 90's trucks, order a starter for a Dakota or Ram with a 318/360 to get the proper mini starter...
 
So, I'm decluttering my original stock 318 w/ 904 in my 1972 Gold Duster. Was wondering if some of the more knowledgeable techs know what pulley set & belt length that I'll need when I remove the A/C. I have a spare Edelbrock performer intake and Holley 4 barrel carb to reinstall on it, and dress her up a bit ....those are my plans. I'm researching a good header set, which I hear is frustrating to install on the drivers side. I have a 360 w/ 340 J heads that I'll be building as I drive this 43,000 mile car. Would you do a cam on the 318? I have mostly everything for the 360 except a new cam. Anybody got any good information that I could use before I tackle this job?

View attachment 1715414649


If you want to install a cam in the 318, I would recommend this one with a set of Rhoades lifters part # 2018...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEO7E4/?tag=joeychgo-20


Rhoads lifters:

Lifters -


Rhoads lifters main page:

Rhoads Lifters

Read the second article to see how they work... I've been using them for over 30 years and have put over 200,000 miles on a set with no problems...

Articles



Then be sure to replace the stock timing chain with a good double roller... The stock 318 timing chains are cheap junk and stretch very easily...

I like this Edelbrock true roller double roller, I've run them for over 100,000 miles plus and they don't stretch very much, I've put over 200,000 miles on these also with no problems....

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Set

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Sets 7803
 
This is what I did on my (318) '71 Dart GT.

Here is a picture of the factory original setup:
View attachment 1715414699


and a drawing of the original components, pulleys, and belts layout
View attachment 1715414700


I then purchased (from Ebay) another set of (altermator/AC compressor) brackets


View attachment 1715414715


and made some cuts.
View attachment 1715414701


I purchased another power steering belt (Federal PS pump) and installed it as shown
View attachment 1715414702


Here is the drawing of the modified components, pulleys, and belts layout
View attachment 1715414705


I then replaced the cut down (Ebay pruchased) front bracket. I used a small block chevy chrome alternator adjusting arm fit/cut to my needs
View attachment 1715414709
View attachment 1715414710


Here is what it looks like today(ish) with several thousand miles on it.
View attachment 1715414712

Wow! I can't get this kind of information from my circle of car guys. Mopar must be pretty special because most can only talk about Chevy or Ford. I've always like my mopars. Thanks for the pics. I work in a machine shop and these brackets don't look like they would be hard to make if I had the specs, but removing and cutting away the A/C bracket looks pretty simple.


Dan's way may work, but you won't be able to order belts off the chart as you are then making it an orphan... I also would be skeptical of the single bar bracket from the water pump with only one mounting hole - what is to keep it from vibrating/moving under load... Two mounting bolts would be more stable for a solid center pivot mounting point for the alternator...

If that's what you want to do, it's your car and go for it... If you use the components that I recommended, you can order belts for a non A/c car from any parts store and get the right parts... The way I recommended will get you to the stock configuration so ordering parts will be much easier...
 
What have you against AC? I see you're in Tennessee. I'm in Georgia. Doesn't it get hot up there too? Just askin. AC is nice to have and yours looks pretty complete. It's not hard to get going.
 
For headers, go with Doug's or TTI... They are the best fit and won't hang below the k-frame to be bent on daily driving...

Watch the online Autozone discounts to get the doug's at a reasonable price, it will save you about $150 - $200....

The headers may require you to run a mini starter from the later 90's trucks, order a starter for a Dakota or Ram with a 318/360 to get the proper mini starter...
Thanks
 
Dan's way may work, but you won't be able to order belts off the chart as you are then making it an orphan... I also would be skeptical of the single bar bracket from the water pump with only one mounting hole - what is to keep it from vibrating/moving under load... Two mounting bolts would be more stable for a solid center pivot mounting point for the alternator...

If that's what you want to do, it's your car and go for it... If you use the components that I recommended, you can order belts for a non A/c car from any parts store and get the right parts... The way I recommended will get you to the stock configuration so ordering parts will be much easier...
Thanks
 
What have you against AC? I see you're in Tennessee. I'm in Georgia. Doesn't it get hot up there too? Just askin. AC is nice to have and yours looks pretty complete. It's not hard to get going.

I get it. I love A/C as much as the next guy but man, just call me old school, but I just like seeing the engine without all the clutter. I'm not gonna drive cross country or even an every day driver. I just love and miss driving them, the noise they create and everything about them. I hope to make it to the local Dairy Queen car show every month and even some local road trips. My 10 minute trip work pickup hasn't had air in 15 years and I'm good still. Everything else I drive.......has air. My wife though, she may want it when it's ready. I'll keep everything just in case.
 
I agree-keep the AC and you will drive the car a lot more in the summer. Unless you like to sweat!

Hmm, we'll see. I'll keep everything but surely an aftermarket a/c will look less gauky and more pretty. This old stuff is 47 years old. My wife may like it more than me and it may make it on there if someone can make it look decent.
 
If you want to install a cam in the 318, I would recommend this one with a set of Rhoades lifters part # 2018...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEO7E4/?tag=joeychgo-20


Rhoads lifters:

Lifters -


Rhoads lifters main page:

Rhoads Lifters

Read the second article to see how they work... I've been using them for over 30 years and have put over 200,000 miles on a set with no problems...

Articles



Then be sure to replace the stock timing chain with a good double roller... The stock 318 timing chains are cheap junk and stretch very easily...

I like this Edelbrock true roller double roller, I've run them for over 100,000 miles plus and they don't stretch very much, I've put over 200,000 miles on these also with no problems....

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Set

Edelbrock Performer-Link True Roller Timing Chain Sets 7803

Oh man, I love all this info. Thanks
 
i have 3 cams i need to get rid of,lunati voodoo 701 with 10 hrs run time, used MP 284/484 and a NOS MP 292/508 new, the last 2 cams would definitely like rhoads lifters
 
Hmm, we'll see. I'll keep everything but surely an aftermarket a/c will look less gauky and more pretty. This old stuff is 47 years old. My wife may like it more than me and it may make it on there if someone can make it look decent.
I went with an aftermarket under hood kit from Classic for my factory air 68. It definitely is a cleaner look with the smaller compressor, plus you can route the lines to your liking. I wanted the air back on my car after a few years but wanted to keep the under hood clutter to a minimum. It really fit the bill.
 
I went with an aftermarket under hood kit from Classic for my factory air 68. It definitely is a cleaner look with the smaller compressor, plus you can route the lines to your liking. I wanted the air back on my car after a few years but wanted to keep the under hood clutter to a minimum. It really fit the bill.

I won't rule it completely out. Driving with the 318 will be temporary until the 360 build is complete anyway. By then, I may decide I want it. I figure the build and added necessities will take a while. The little 904 and 7.25 rearend probably won't support a hot 360.
 
Dan's way may work, but you won't be able to order belts off the chart as you are then making it an orphan... I also would be skeptical of the single bar bracket from the water pump with only one mounting hole - what is to keep it from vibrating/moving under load... Two mounting bolts would be more stable for a solid center pivot mounting point for the alternator...

If that's what you want to do, it's your car and go for it... If you use the components that I recommended, you can order belts for a non A/c car from any parts store and get the right parts... The way I recommended will get you to the stock configuration so ordering parts will be much easier...

Maybe I wasn't clear in my earlier post, but I'm using a belt that matches the power steering belt designed for my car (318 with the Federal PS pump). So. in my "road trip spare parts" box I need to carry only 1 extra belt that will fit either the the crankshaft/water pump/power steering or the crankshaft/alternator.

Also, I too questioned the strength/longevity of the 1 bolt bracket vs. the 2 bolt bracket. I've been running the 1 bolt bracket for several years for several thousand miles with no troubles.
 
Do you still have the 701 you want to sell ?
Going by your before and after pictures, looks like you eliminated power brakes. What was the reason for that and how it working out for you?
 
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