Gear Vendor and 833

Short answer; in 2004 the only adapter available,was the longtail with the B/E pads.
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They sent this one because it's the only way to install the unit in an A-body with it not hitting the floor-pan. With an A-body tail, I imagine that you will have to either; raise the floor a lil bit, of drop the cross-member.
I had to saw off one lug and change from the front mount to fit it into the cross-member tunnel, and so that mount became unusable. Which left the E-body location,which is roughly 10 inches further back. From there I had to make my own adapter.I could have gone back to the A-body location. But in my case , with buckets, I chose to move it even further back, and up high enough to install the top bolt from inside the cabin. And then used a short-stick shifter.
So with the seat adjusted for me, and with the trans in neutral, I have the shifter pointing more or less vertical, and with my hand on the ball, my elbow hangs sortof just forward of vertical to my shoulder.
So now, having street slick-shifted second and third gears, and with my back in the seat; I can put enough power into the shifts that I can actually shift faster than the brass can whenever I want to. And I still let the brass do it's job the rest of the time.I haven't missed a shift since I moved the stick, back in 2004.
I made new stiff rods from seamless tubing that accepted, IIRC, a 3/8 tap. That was actually the easiest part of the modification. The adapter mount I made from 1/4 plate IIRC. I actually made three different ones, the third being the charm. I kept raising it and backing it up.
And my knuckles never hit the dash no more. If you have a 4 or 5 point harness, this is the way to go, I think.
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Don't forget; you cannot back up the car with the GV engaged! If you do; as little or less than 2 ft will instantly kill it and cost you a rebuild. So if you bypass the computer to use it as a splitter, you will have to engineer a way of preventing that. I mounted an LED on the tach to indicate "engaged", and learned to make a habit of looking at that stinking light before letting out the clutch.
And also, that unit can be power-shifted into, but when back-shifting, it has to be decoupled. This takes time. And the slower the driveshaft is turning the more time you have to allow for it. So with 3.23s for instance this is a bit of a problem. But with 4.30s, I found that shifting out of first-over at redline, and into second, I could just treat it like a regular foot-clutched shift, with a bit of a hesitation on the left foot. From second-over to third, the pump makes enough pressure that I quick stab on the clutch seems to be enough.
I run the 3.09 commando box and 3.55s, so second-over takes me to 93mph in the Eighth @ 6150 or something, with two electric powershifts and one pull on the stick. (see my sig below)
Good luck.