684door
Well-Known Member
Thinking of changing my 1968 Dodge Dart from factory 8 3/4 to Dana rear. It is a 4 speed and I want reliability for street and track. Just want anyone's first hand opinions pros and cons of the two. Thanks
Strange 60 vs Moser 60
- Thread starter 684door
- Start date
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How much HP are you regularly putting to the 8 3/4?
684door
Well-Known Member
I have a warmed over 383, 4.10 gears, A833. A few weeks ago I broke the 8.75 bearing caps in 3 places with 225/70 15 street tires, caltracs bars and mono springs. I drive my car to the track and back, plus these centersections are going out of sight price wise.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You have three choices. Two are expensive. One is not. Two options are better. One is the best.
Option 1. Buy a clutch that won't break your parts. Figure on $2200.00 bucks. You can call Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches in Idaho, I think Hyatt is still doing clutches, Black Magic Clutches and McLeod can all fix you up.
Option 2. You can buy the D or S60. The big difference is the S60 uses side adjusters instead of shims to set backlash. If you have a case spreader already, it's a push. Which ever one you can do the most cost effective is what I'd do. Figure about 2k'ish to get one done.
Option 3. This is the cheapest and quickest way to fix what you have. But a Clutch Tamer. That will allow you to slow down the application of the clutch and stop breaking parts.
I always suggest option 1 but most guys don't want to spend the money.
At least fix the 8.75 and buy a CT and learn to use it. Then, once you start to understand clutch application and control, you'll see what a $2,000.00 clutch that you can tune is a bargain.
Option 1. Buy a clutch that won't break your parts. Figure on $2200.00 bucks. You can call Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches in Idaho, I think Hyatt is still doing clutches, Black Magic Clutches and McLeod can all fix you up.
Option 2. You can buy the D or S60. The big difference is the S60 uses side adjusters instead of shims to set backlash. If you have a case spreader already, it's a push. Which ever one you can do the most cost effective is what I'd do. Figure about 2k'ish to get one done.
Option 3. This is the cheapest and quickest way to fix what you have. But a Clutch Tamer. That will allow you to slow down the application of the clutch and stop breaking parts.
I always suggest option 1 but most guys don't want to spend the money.
At least fix the 8.75 and buy a CT and learn to use it. Then, once you start to understand clutch application and control, you'll see what a $2,000.00 clutch that you can tune is a bargain.
684door
Well-Known Member
Yellow rose,
Did you ever use a clutch tamer. I have seen their site in the past but never used one
Did you ever use a clutch tamer. I have seen their site in the past but never used one
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
No, I use an adjustable clutch. But if you don't want to spend that kind of money, the only real option I know of is the CT.
The thing is, it's the cheapest of the options I named above. So even if you don't like it, you can sell it pretty easy and get most of your money back.
I used to spend my time and effort trying to get guys to spend the money on the adjustable clutch, for several reasons. One is you can do more with an adjustable clutch. It is more complicated, but not hard to learn. It allows for more control in the shift, because it's RPM/weight based...the lower the RPM the lower the plate load. So if you short shift, you can still get back into the RPM range because the plate load is less. Otherwise it just drags the engine down. Or breaks parts. On the starting line, you have the option of more or less base pressure, and/or more or less counter weight. Pair that with a two step and the ability to easily change launch RPM and you can do lots of things to make the car quicker and not break parts.
At this point, I just try and give good options. The CT is one of them. I always hope once someone buys a CT and learns to use it, and you start to grasp the difference between locking up a clutch, slipping a clutch and applying the clutch, then maybe you can see the benefit to an expensive clutch, where now, you may not see it.
If you go on YouTube and look at some old school Pro Stock videos you'll hear the engine get pulled down when the clutch locks up, which is basically instant. It does the same in the gear change. A controlled application of the clutch stops that, allows quicker ET's and reduces broken parts by an order of magnitude.
The CT does work. It will control the application of the clutch. For the money, and the experience, it's what I'd say to do unless you are committed to spending the money on a clutch.
That's the best quick explanation I can give. I hate to see you spend money on a 60 when I doubt you need it. Someone above (I think brian6pack) said buy better caps for your 8.75 you have now. Between that and the CT I think you'll spend less money. And once you make the axle tougher, it won't be long and the drive long will find a away to escape. Then, 3rd gear will start failing...you know how it goes.
Fix your 8.75, buy a CT and start with that.
you want reliability .......Dana s60....buy once....
8 3/4 eats ring gears....sooner or later....
684door
Well-Known Member
That's one person for Strange. Anyone have experience with Moser 60?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
684door
Well-Known Member
Mopardude318,
Thanks. Any issues?
Thanks. Any issues?
j par
Well-hung Member
I spent all the money and built the 489 case with 410 gears and blew the Caps off with in about 20 passes..
Spent the same amount of money again and built a Dana 60 and done...
I install the clutch Tamer a couple months ago and I've only had it out on the street a couple times and can already tell it's going to be a major part saver...
like absolutely every inch of my car and every bolt of my car it has all been documented on this forum in extensive threads...
D60 410 vs 8 and 3/4 410....
Been there done that...
So has yellow rose LOL...
My clutch Tamer thread is on the Race part of the Forum. With only two drives on the street I can already tell it's the best hundred $80 I've spent on my car...
Grant is one of the easiest people to get ahold of and talk to if any Tech advice or help is needed...
My-2...
Spent the same amount of money again and built a Dana 60 and done...
I install the clutch Tamer a couple months ago and I've only had it out on the street a couple times and can already tell it's going to be a major part saver...
like absolutely every inch of my car and every bolt of my car it has all been documented on this forum in extensive threads...
D60 410 vs 8 and 3/4 410....
Been there done that...
So has yellow rose LOL...
My clutch Tamer thread is on the Race part of the Forum. With only two drives on the street I can already tell it's the best hundred $80 I've spent on my car...
Grant is one of the easiest people to get ahold of and talk to if any Tech advice or help is needed...
My-2...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I forgot to tell him to read your thread.
I thought I laid it out pretty clear above. It's not just the rear axle he'll be saving. It's everything.
Once you see how much damage a clutch can do, you can see why you need to control it.
I've bent 5/8 drive studs before I got a handle on it. And a whole bunch of other crap too.
What sold me on the Strange was the adjusters....even a friend change the gear ratio for me.,,,I watched and he told me how much easier the strange is over the moser....
All 3 bracket cars have the strange D60 ordered thru Doctor Diff...Cass save my *** on the last Dana 60 i ordered....ordered it too narrow and was able to use his ends to make it wide enough to make it work.....bought him lunch at Mats last year....lol
684door
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Yellow rose and J par, thanks for the advice on the clutch tamer too. I have seen those on sites before, but never knew of a mopar guy to use one. Before the 8.75 incident, my car had a "clutch tamer" per say in the form of a bog. That bog saved my rear, no pun intended. After I went through carb adjustments and timing adjustments, my car had no more bog and picked up 4 mph even smoking the tires and pedaling it. I was making a lot more power and the car was leaving hard. 2nd run on the new tune up did it. I will probably order one for my father's 4 speed 55'Chevy as well. Don't get upset guys, it has a 350 Chevy, but a Chrysler 8.75 rear.
Thanks for the rear end reviews too, looks like Strange has more buyers than Moser.
Thanks for the rear end reviews too, looks like Strange has more buyers than Moser.
DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
Now is the time to buy an S-60 rear. They are currently 10% off and free shipping to a business address.
Simply choose the options you like and deduct 10% off the price in the link below:
Strange S-60 for Mopar, Ford, Chevy/GM
Simply choose the options you like and deduct 10% off the price in the link below:
Strange S-60 for Mopar, Ford, Chevy/GM
DoctorDiff
Well-Known Member
According to Strange, there is no official end date. The sale may last until black Friday or end before that.
684door
Well-Known Member
Thanks Doctor Diff
Duane
Well-Known Member
I have to agree with Tony. The Moser does not have the threaded adjuster, so you will need a case spreader tool to setup.
The strange S60 is the wY to go. And be aware that the S60 uses different carrier bearings than a standard Dana 60. You have to use the s60 bearings or get the part number equivalent from strange.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Now why would they do this? Are the bearings bigger/heavier duty? I’m sure there is a good reason. ;)
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