Steering box adjustment

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808-dartGT

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Is there any specific tricks or procedures to follow to adjust slack in a steering box ( no power) on 1964 Dart GT 225 ? Thank you!
 
Go slow. Take your time. Steering boxes with a lot of miles often wear more in the center. That means if you adjust it perfect with the wheel in the center it might bind up near the ends.
 
Yup, what Mike69 said. Sometimes they wear in a way that makes it nearly impossible to adjust. The FSM way is to check the torque it takes with an inch-pounds torque wrench to rotate. I'd say go about an 1/8 turn at a time, check for binding in the box after adjustment w the wheels off the ground. Note the adjustment where you started, track the # of turns.
 
Go slow. Take your time. Steering boxes with a lot of miles often wear more in the center. That means if you adjust it perfect with the wheel in the center it might bind up near the ends.
I didn’t even think about that ... this forum is awesome! You guys make my work so much easier! Thank you!
 
Yup, what Mike69 said. Sometimes they wear in a way that makes it nearly impossible to adjust. The FSM way is to check the torque it takes with an inch-pounds torque wrench to rotate. I'd say go about an 1/8 turn at a time, check for binding in the box after adjustment w the wheels off the ground. Note the adjustment where you started, track the # of turns.
How would you check with inch-pound torque wrench?
 
As another FABO member once said, " better to have it two smidgens too loose, than one smidgen too tight."

If you get them too tight, they will sort of lock and want to drive straight, when you adjust, they sort of lock again and want to drive straight. Then you go down the road like this. Not a good feeling.
 
The way I do it is loosen the pitman adjustment way up, the nut and screw on top so there is a lot of play in the steering wheel. Then loosen the big nut on the input shaft coming from the steering wheel. tighten that till it feels a little stiff that way there is no play in the worm screw. Tighten it up turn it to make sure there is no binding. Then tighten the pitman shaft up (make sure it is centered) till there is very little play and drive it if it doesn't center it self loosen it up a little.
 
The way I do it is loosen the pitman adjustment way up, the nut and screw on top so there is a lot of play in the steering wheel. Then loosen the big nut on the input shaft coming from the steering wheel. tighten that till it feels a little stiff that way there is no play in the worm screw. Tighten it up turn it to make sure there is no binding. Then tighten the pitman shaft up (make sure it is centered) till there is very little play and drive it if it doesn't center it self loosen it up a little.
You do that with raised car?
 
You do that with raised car?
Normally no I don't think it really makes a difference, what makes the difference is the wear in the box, if it's worn bad it wont handle good, if the pitman shaft binds up on center it's just as bad as having a lot of play. There's a fine line to get it to handle good.
 
You do that with raised car?

If you're going to remove the metering valve to, say, replace the o-rings you'll need to have the front end off the ground to adjust it when tightening it down. Just a couple thousandths of an inch off will send the wheels to full stop quickly!!
 
You may find a free download here. If your specific car is not listed you could use a close model.

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
It’s not listed
If you're going to remove the metering valve to, say, replace the o-rings you'll need to have the front end off the ground to adjust it when tightening it down. Just a couple thousandths of an inch off will send the wheels to full stop quickly!!
now I wonder if I should buy new box instead...
 
It’s not listed

now I wonder if I should buy new box instead...

I'm not an expert, but if you can't find a 65 or 66 dart manual, the steering gear should be the same.

You may not need a new gear box. And I heard nothing but terrible things about remanufactured Cardone and others. If you do decide to get a new one, pay the price for a Steer and Gear or Firm Feel box.

Keep in mind, these steering systems are old technology and feel much different than our new cars we drive nowadays! It may be that you just haven't driven one in a while.

**** Edit ****. I just re-read your original post and see it is manual steering. Forget most of what I said, lol..

Download a 65 or 66 manual and see if the steering section looks like your gear. Then follow adjustment procedures.
 
If you're going to remove the metering valve to, say, replace the o-rings you'll need to have the front end off the ground to adjust it when tightening it down. Just a couple thousandths of an inch off will send the wheels to full stop quickly!!

Your talking power box he's talking manual box ! Big difference.
 
There are two adjustments that have to be done correctly and in the correct order. See here.

I always leave the pitman arm on so it makes it easier to see the play between the input shaft and the center link
 
I'm talking any box, he's talking any box! No difference! Same two adjustments, made the same way, in the same order.
I fried to loosen up big nut on a input shaft, it wouldn’t budge, is there better tools than punch an a hammer?
 
Yes—the official spanner as shown in the FSM.

But I'd keep on trying with a hammer and punch, maybe after cleaning up the threads and applying some good penetrant on both sides of the lockring.
 
Yes—the official spanner as shown in the FSM.

But I'd keep on trying with a hammer and punch, maybe after cleaning up the threads and applying some good penetrant on both sides of the lockring.
I’ll spray some and leave it overnight
 
You have to take the horn button off, and put it on the nut holding the steering wheel, IIRC. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?
How do you account for the added friction of the steering column bearings? I always took the FSM inch / lb torque to turn specifications to be with the torque arm directly on the steering box input shaft.
 
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