Adjusting the bearing preload
- Thread starter desy500
- Start date
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69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Of course you can get it too tight until it won't spin at all.
Proper procedure is to tighten to 7-10 ft/lb while rotating, back off, and then finger tighten. Then back off whatever small amount it takes to install the castle nut & cotter pin. Most people just go by "feel" (and that seems to work too).
Well , I am thinking that if I can tighten the nut down by hand , and then another turn with a wrench , then the wheel should not spin . But it does , so is the hub worn out or the bearings worn out or the did the po put the wrong bearings on that hub? I have switched from right side to left , and the issue follows the hub ?
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Sounds like either the bearings are worn out, or they are the wrong bearings. Only disassembly and inspection will tell.
We're all assuming you are talking about the FRONT.
yes the front. I am going to pull both hubs again today , and check if the issue remains with the hub , or the spindle. I will let everyone know.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
One turn after hand tight is WAY too tight.
If the bearings and spindle are ok as tight as you can hand tighten while spinning the drum clockwise, then the closest cotter pin slot.
People's way of doing it varies, but the basics are the same.
Of course if you get it hand tight and have any wobble or play in and out or up and down there is a problem with the nut bottoming out before the bearings are tight in the races or a worn race seat in the hub or on the spindle.
I have seen where an old bearing seized and spun wallowing out the hub or eating the spindle, but it's pretty obvious when you see it.
Seriously, they only need inch pounds, not foot pounds.
I've always done front spindle bearings like our old auto shop instructor in high school taught us. Tighten down on the nut as you are turning and bumping on the tire to help seat the bearings. Continue to tighten until the nut bottoms then tighten to the next slot and put the cotter pin in. He was very adamant about NOT backing off the nut, "like an old man" he used to say. He always stressed the importance of tapered roller bearings having a little preload. That was 1980 and I've been doing it the same ever since with no trouble.
Yes I read that on this site last year , and tried to do that way , I think i was following to turn it some moire till the wheel wants to stop spinning , and then back off and put in the pin. that works on one side , but can not tighten other side till wheel drags . more info to come...
update , so looks like the PO did one side and not the other somewhere along the line , both drums are different makes , one is 1 m.m. smaller where the brake shoes touch, one side has timken outer bearing made in the us , the other side has national made in mexico, although they do have the same numbers on them , both have national wheel seals , so I guess the inners are also national . I always thought that you never did one side only?
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