What is this and why would it be there?

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Johnny Mac said:
Look at the machining on the opposite bank. Think it had a roller cam at one point...And has bad core shift, and that JB goo is covering where they punched water jackets on the other side??
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Our virgin 340 block had exactly those same machined grooves in the sides of the block above the lifter bores. So I do not think that is a sign of a roller cam being in there before. (Our block had sat in storage for 30-40 years with Dick Titsworth in Toledo. It might have been some sort of block for his '71 Cuda ... did not ask!) You can see the lower edges of some of them in this pix; they were above each and every lifter bore.

DSCN1718.JPG
 
nm9stheham said:
Our virgin 340 block had exactly those same machined grooves in the sides of the block above the lifter bores. So I do not think that is a sign of a roller cam being in there before. (Our block had sat in storage for 30-40 years with Dick Titsworth in Toledo. It might have been some sort of block for his '71 Cuda ... did not ask!) You can see the lower edges of some of them in this pix; they were above each and every lifter bore.

View attachment 1715416886
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thats interesting. i have never seen those on a 360 block...and i've owned/seen alot of those roll by. I have never even touched a 340 block however, so can't speak for those. interesting. thanks for sharing.
 
And here is another pix showing those same grooves. Maybe the 340 blocks, or some of them, just were cast thicker up near the top of the valley.

DSCN1723.JPG
 
They gotta machine the lifter bores and if there is any part of the block sticking out in line with the lifter bore axis from the deck on down, it is going to get machined. Right? I can't see why you would add these slots there on an engine that didn't have them? The lifter is .904 diameter as is the bore. What do you need a cylindrical relief for that far above the lifter hole? I The tie bars aren't that shape and the slots are deeper up by the deck. I guess the roller lifters are longer, but then that slot would have to be offset from the center of the lifter bore? Guess I'll have to look at the bare block in the garage and see if my feeble mind can grasp it.
 
Max1196 said:
My guess is this'll be the boogie monster under the goop! 70 1/2 340 block.View attachment 1715417144 View attachment 1715417145
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Max, I think you hit the nail on the head, because the side wth the goop on my motor has very little machined relief that is been one of the suspects in this dicussion. So here's a question for you - was that motor weeping coolant, and if it was, what did you do about it?
Does anyone know what the goop in my motor is? It's not any type oh epoxy I've seen before.
 
gzig5 said:
They gotta machine the lifter bores and if there is any part of the block sticking out in line with the lifter bore axis from the deck on down, it is going to get machined. Right? I can't see why you would add these slots there on an engine that didn't have them? The lifter is .904 diameter as is the bore. What do you need a cylindrical relief for that far above the lifter hole? I The tie bars aren't that shape and the slots are deeper up by the deck. I guess the roller lifters are longer, but then that slot would have to be offset from the center of the lifter bore? Guess I'll have to look at the bare block in the garage and see if my feeble mind can grasp it.
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Just guessing..... tooling clearance. I have thought in the past that maybe it was the head of the lifter boring tool, or the shank of the boring bit, that needed a bit of extra relief on a particular machine line. That could have been one or a few machines. Getting past the lip of the block and all the way down to the bottom of the lifter bore would seem to require a very long bit. A shorter bit or a stouter bit shank, would mean a more accurate lifter bore, but would mean the block needed clearancing for the tooling.

If you look at your bare block, place a lifter in one of those slots, and see if the radius of the slot is larger than that lifter radius.
 
JF900 said:
Max, I think you hit the nail on the head, because the side wth the goop on my motor has very little machined relief that is been one of the suspects in this dicussion. So here's a question for you - was that motor weeping coolant, and if it was, what did you do about it?
Does anyone know what the goop in my motor is? It's not any type oh epoxy I've seen before.
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It for sure is a leaker, the stains are still there, I did nothing, tossed it in a shed, torqueing on that head bolt immediately above the crack would only pull the crack open. This likely could be repaired, but not by me, and the thing needs to go .040 over also, anyone want a shitty block?
 
nm9stheham said:
Is it somewhat like a plastic material?
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It's a real smooth hard material. It's not JB Weld or similar epoxy. I thought someone may be aware of a material that is made for these type repairs. This stuff has been at work for 20 years, but I'm not big on glues or similar as others have said.
 
I've got the numbers matching motor that the previous owner said it has a spun bearing, but I'm not sure I can trust much of what he told me. I'm going to dig into that motor to see what it looks like. I appreciate all of the knowledge that has been shared and would appreciate any guidance on the best route for a build on the origianal motor if no serious problems are found. I'm looking for a healthy 450 horse street motor with mid range torque - any thoughts? Cost is always a element but I'd do the right thing for the best result.
 
JF900 said:
It's a real smooth hard material. It's not JB Weld or similar epoxy. I thought someone may be aware of a material that is made for these type repairs. This stuff has been at work for 20 years, but I'm not big on glues or similar as others have said.
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I'm going to guess MarineTex, which is a strong, well regarded epoxy that's been around for a while. Normally it's white or gray but can be colored. I'm guessing the oil made it brown. that info is worth exactly what you paid for it. If it isn't leaking, I'd run it as is unless you are going for big HP numbers. Figure a couple hundred bucks to weld whatever is underneath that if you can find a guy to do it.
 
As has been said before, don't mess with the Glue.
Run it! injoy it! And start with the original, with a spun bearing.
I wouldn't trust his words either.
Look it over closely and have it pressure tested before you start the build one the original block
Pressure testing is cheap if you haven't already sunk a ton of money into it before you fine a problem.

As far as the push rod grooves. they didn't come from the factory like that.
My Hyd Roller didn't need them grooves and but if i was running some monster roller the required high pressure valve spring. THAT would have required Larger push rod tubes......them pushrod groove would have been necessary. just my opinion.
 
My bad, I misread some stuff.
 
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Max1196 said:
My guess is this'll be the boogie monster under the goop! 70 1/2 340 block.View attachment 1715417144 View attachment 1715417145
Click to expand...

Living in Ohio I have seen and have had more than a couple 340 blocks and one was a T/A all cracked in the right valley just like the one in the picture. Not enough anti freeze every time, I even bought a 70 340 cuda that had froze and popped all the freeze plugs and did not break the block ! go figure.
 
GEO said:
I'd have to see what is under all that glue
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If i was going to junk it i would, or if it milked the oil
otherwise if it's not broken don't f!@%$@$#with it!:D
I would run it, but never rebuild it.........
 
Cudafever said:
If i was going to junk it i would, or if it milked the oil
otherwise if it's not broken don't f!@%$@$#with it!:D
I would run it, but never rebuild it.........
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That's not fixed it's just had a band-aid put on it and I consider it broken, and that stuff could let loose at anytime , and maybe in pieces which would bang around in the engine and do who knows what damage.
 
you have to drill the ends of a crack or it will keep on cracking
then fix weld or stitch or whatever
heating for the weld may require re machining
 
GEO said:
That's not fixed it's just had a band-aid put on it and I consider it broken, and that stuff could let loose at anytime , and maybe in pieces which would bang around in the engine and do who knows what damage.
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Im my eyes that block is JUNK! i would NOT grind it off to see what's there, i would beat the h e double tooth picks out of it unit it broke... one way or another......then to the scrap heap it would go.
It runs, it don't leak! beat on it until it blows.

Yes there are people that can fix cast iron...and make it last??????? But no one close in my area.
I would beat on it until it Blows! have zero dollar into the motor and would not spend one dollar on it.(ok, it need a intake gasket set to make it run again). it don't even deserve a fresh carb or intake.

Now that i have said all of that......would probably pull the motor, reinstall the intake and then tape up all the ports to protect the crank, rods, heads and intake.
Then junk the block when them parts are used up................
 
Cudafever said:
Im my eyes that block is JUNK! i would NOT grind it off to see what's there, i would beat the h e double tooth picks out of it unit it broke... one way or another......then to the scrap heap it would go.
It runs, it don't leak! beat on it until it blows.

Yes there are people that can fix cast iron...and make it last??????? But no one close in my area.
I would beat on it until it Blows! have zero dollar into the motor and would not spend one dollar on it.(ok, it need a intake gasket set to make it run again). it don't even deserve a fresh carb or intake.

Now that i have said all of that......would probably pull the motor, reinstall the intake and then tape up all the ports to protect the crank, rods, heads and intake.
Then junk the block when them parts are used up................
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I have a spare 1971 340 block that needs one sleeve, I keep it for a spare. I cleaned and painted it with rustoleum years ago and used it for an end table in my basement. Still got it, in case I ruin the 1969 block in my car
 
I have a 68 340 block that has a crack in one of the cyl walls (60 over that i dropped a valve in).......keeping it for some day.
Used a tub of wheel bearing grease, cardboard and a plastic bag.:thumbsup:
 
If you are shooting for a real 450 hp motor I would consider that borderline for that block. I would still use it. Its not like you are taking a chance on say a valve spring. Which could destroy a bunch of other parts. If it leaks it can toast the bearings and maybe the crank.
 
furrystump said:
If you are shooting for a real 450 hp motor I would consider that borderline for that block. I would still use it. Its not like you are taking a chance on say a valve spring. Which could destroy a bunch of other parts. If it leaks it can toast the bearings and maybe the crank.
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I may have not been clear. I have the numbers matching motor that I'm going to move forward with after it's been inspected to make sure it's solid. What's a good receipe for a solid street motor?
 
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