Vibration issues

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CudaFactHackJob said:
Well, that short driveshaft is asking for problems. But did you check the movement of the u-joints for binding? The binding makes them vibrate, but the binding also indicates a probable off center condition that will REALLY make it vibrate. You could put stands under the axle and run it with the wheels and tires and brake drums off..just don't hit the brake.
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What do you disagree with in my post about the roller clutch?
 
Hello. Byron, were you ever able to check for play in the output shaft / bushing?

(I am watching the thread because I am having a vibe issue that I believe to be in the driveline which has play I can feel between the yoke / transmission)
 
Because it's too much work just to check something. That driveshaft ain't right. It's sticking out a whole inch too far. Take the driveshaft in and have the u-joints checked and balance it. I bet the u-joints are off center and it runs off balance.
 
I havent been able to check it yet I did take the drive shaft in and have it lengthened I still have the vibration. I got a new output shaft bearing and bushing I just need time to get it out and check it swap parts
 
And put it in neutral when it vibrates and see what it does then. Also, with a booted rear seal, the end of the yoke should only have about 1/4" showing.
 
Have you grabbed the yoke yet as it passes out of the tailshaft of the transmission and see if it fits snug or if there is slop?
 
I was finally able to change the tail shaft bushing and bearing. I still have a vibration though it seems to not be as bad as what it what before. While I had the tail housing off I did grab the tail shift and it has some movement in it up and down not a lot but I do not know if that's because if the housing being off or dose that mean an issue with the transmission internally?

I am planning on running the car with out the rear wheels. Checking my axles incase they are not straight. I may go back to the old wheels I had in when I got the car just to rule out everything but the transmission.

I had my girlfriend ride in the back seat of the car and the vibration seems to only be felt in the center if the car. Can place your had on the trans tunnel and feel the vibration there.
 
no i dont think its the converter. It wasn't something i changed on the car. the only thing still changed on the car from when i first got it running is the wheels. and im going to get the rears looked at for balance and may just put the old ones on to see if it makes a difference.
 
Thanks. I hope so to im trying to rule everything out before I'm pulling the transmission out and ripping it apart.
 
You replaced the tail bushing and the vibration decreased. I'm sure you didn't re-install the driveshaft exactly the same way. Did you check both u-joints BOTH WAYS? You turn the yoke so the u-joint turns in the caps and see if it moves back and forth smoothly. You have to make sure the rear u-joint is sitting in clean saddles. Including the inner edge that holds the caps from spreading apart from each other. The problem I'm looking for is caps that are too close together; causing a bind and a vibration.
 
I will have to look at them again and double check all that... not something I though of thank you. One thing I am curious about my slip yoke on my drive shift has about 2 inches before the splines start inside the slip yoke. I've noticed on other drive shafts they have the splines all the way threw the slip yoke. Is there something with that that I'm not catching that could also be causing an issue?
 
I finally solved my vibration issue. Installed a new driveshaft, u-joints, slip yoke - all balanced as a unit. The slip yoke used to have 2+" of its shaft exposed out of the tail of the transmission. My research let me to the decision that there should me more like 1" to 1-1/4" exposed so I ordered the new driveshaft an inch longer. Car is smooth at all speeds now!
-now on to the next project... figuring out how to rebuild my trw power steering pump :)
 
...forgot to add that I first replaced the transmission tailshaft bushing prior to ordering the driveline. (the tailshaft bushing did not eliminate the vibration so I went ahead and did the new driveline)
 
I got a new driveshaft made they took the ends off the old one and put them on the new one. I got the right amount exposed. Possibly one if the ends got damaged when the drive shift came out of the car at 60+ mph and rolled across the free way. I might need to look into getting the ends of the drive shift replaced then or at least checked out..
 
For my new driveshaft they reused one of the ends of my old driveshaft. The ends still fit the u joints without any play. They didn't use one of the ends because on my old driveshaft the driveshaft tube had two different diameters (it had a step down in the tube from 3-1/4" on one end to 3" on the other) and the new driveshaft is a constant 3" diameter.
Byron-
-I am with cudafacthackjob on getting the driveline high speed balanced with the u-joints and slip yoke attached- especially if it hasn't been done since the driveline was thrown off.
-The old and new slip yokes I had both were smooth inside before the spline grooves started. Think that is standard. I do know that the new slip yoke was an inch or so shorter in the overall shaft length. I read somewhere that Chrysler shortened the design of the Slip yoke from 8+" to 7+" in order to address a vibration concern but that is a third party unconfirmed report. It may help explain why the new slip yokes come shorter than they did (at least on my 68 barracuda with a 727 trans.
-I recommend Drivelines NW after having them do my Driveline. They have three locations in the area and I think there is one in Everett that would be closest to you.
 
Driveline Nw is who made my new drive shift the shop in fife is closest to me. i know they balanced it i do not know if they did a high speed balance on it
 
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