Help identifying front brakes.

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cudaguy36

cudaguy36

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Does anyone recognize these disk brakes?
After I started looking closer at my brakes I'm not sure what model and year car they are from. I know the rear was changed to a 8 1/4 with 10inch drums and a 5x4.5 BP
But the front are 5x4.0 " BP. And I dont think they are original either.
I want to change all the pads and rubber lines and fluid for piece of mind since I drive this car alot now. Thanks for any info you all can give. Oh btw the car is a 1967 Barracuda Notchback that I recently bought. 225 slant 6.

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I'm not up on the 67 code tags, but they could be original on the front. Stock K-H 4 piston calipers do occasionally hang a piston. Regular fluid changes are your friend. I would have to decide on what pattern to keep if it was mine. I'd likely keep the 4" for a street driver.
 
Another question, who knows the part numbers or a good place to order pads and lines from. Maybe rotors too?
 
Demonic said:
I'm not up on the 67 code tags, but they could be original on the front. Stock K-H 4 piston calipers do occasionally hang a piston. Regular fluid changes are your friend. I would have to decide on what pattern to keep if it was mine. I'd likely keep the 4" for a street driver.
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Thanks, I'll probably switch to 4.5" to match the rear eventually someday. I'll keep the 4" for now though.
 
Use DOT 4 Fluid, Not DOT 3. They will not stick or freeze over time. This is the fluid recommended for these brakes. I get everything for these brakes at NAPA. Pistons . Rebuild kits , Pads , and hoses. Transfer lines are stainless I get them from Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts This place also carries everything you need for brakes. I go to NAPA because they deliver to the shop when I need them ASAP. Otherwise I use this source

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Uugh, my rotors that I ordered from Rock Auto showed up yesterday so I thought I'd get a start on them while I wait for pads to show up today. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong rotors. I cant seem to find the right ones on Rock Auto, anyone have any suggestions?
 
hemi71x said:
You remove the "HUB" from the old rotor, and install it onto the new.
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Awww man, bummer. I just put put it all back together Lol.
So it looks like I'll have to wait until my brake pads show up later today and then pull both front hubs off and have a local brake shop separate then for me so I dont jack up the studs I've never successfully removed studs from a hub, I failed last time I tried.
 
Ok so I sprayed some wd40 onto the studs and will let it soak until tomorrow morning. Then I will try again by putting the lugs onto all 5 studs with the disc sitting flat on the ground and try to hit them as squarely as I can with hammer. Anyone ever have success doing it that way?
If it doesnt work (or if I bend or break a stud) I'll then take it to the brake shop and let them do It.
 
Long lug nuts are your friend here. Heavy solid workbench, thick. Or a slab of oak. Maybe a brass hammer if you can find one big enough.
 
Demonic said:
Long lug nuts are your friend here. Heavy solid workbench, thick. Or a slab of oak. Maybe a brass hammer if you can find one big enough.
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Unfortunately I'm still living in an apartment so I'm kinda limited on work space/tools.
But like always I try to do everything I can right up until I cant Lol.
I do have 1 set of long lug nuts that fit at least. Thanks for the tip.
 
Ruin a stud and good luck finding one that fits. They should be pressed in and out. They are pretty long, Also the hub should be cleaned properly so it seats to the rotor evenly. Its possible but Good luck
 
The studs are swedged to the rotor/hub assembly. You need a swedge cutter to do it right. You don’t want to damage the hub, they’re hard to find.
 
cosgig said:
The studs are swedged to the rotor/hub assembly. You need a swedge cutter to do it right. You don’t want to damage the hub, they’re hard to find.
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Thanks. I had to look up swedge cutter since I didnt know what that was.
I just finished the job though.
I took the hubs/rotors to a local brake shop and the guy charged be 20$ to press them out and press in the new rotors. Took him like 10 mins total. Well worth it so I dont break a stud or mess something up.
Later today I'll bleed the lines and get fresh dot4 fluid in the stystem.

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