64 valiant 4 speed conversion questions.

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Cudabnu

(3) 64 Val Verts. /6 4spd, 273/904, 318/727
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I'd like to convert one of my 64 valiant convertibles to a 4 speed, 1 already has a 318 swap so that will probably be the one, it has a 727 in it now. I'm hunting for the floorpan hump and have a 69 a body 4 speed, it has a Lakewood scattershield that Is overkill so will find an alum. Bellhousing Questions are
Will later a body pedals work or do they have to be early?
Will later a body Hurst shifter and rods work?
Can a later hump work on the 64 pan?
 
You will need the early bolt on pivot for the early z bar.
You may find clearance issues with the big sb later yr/style bell housing. I remember when I was messing with them it was something lame ..like I had to use a small clutch/flywheel or 10in truck style from a slant...and early bellhousing for the early car to get by without cutting the transmission hump at the firewall for clearance and adding and 1" or so...but I'm not certain since it's been a minute.
 
I'd like to convert one of my 64 valiant convertibles to a 4 speed, 1 already has a 318 swap so that will probably be the one, it has a 727 in it now. I'm hunting for the floorpan hump and have a 69 a body 4 speed, it has a Lakewood scattershield that Is overkill so will find an alum. Bellhousing Questions are
Will later a body pedals work or do they have to be early?
Will later a body Hurst shifter and rods work?
Can a later hump work on the 64 pan?

1.Nope early pedals only 63-66

2.if you use 10.5 clutch you will need aluminum bell housing with special torque shaft and ball stud brewers sells conversion parts. if you use the smaller flywheel with the original 273 bellhousing you can use stock torque shaft ball stud etc

3.i think all four speed shifter and rods interchange except the later OD version

4.i know a guy who put a 67 hump on his early abody it looks like ****.
 
If you keep it simple by using a 273 flywheel and bell from a 64-66 A body you can just bolt it all in.You can use a 10 inch clutch with this set up.I did this in my 65 Barracuda with a 318 and it worked really well.No cutting other than for the 4 speed floor hump, no fabricating It all just goes together with the right stuff. It really comes down to what you need in terms of car use.It it's a nice car you just want to drive and not abuse then this is the way to go .If you want to race around and beat the thing then you need to go in another direction.
 
Thanks for all the info, Looks like I will get rid of the scattershield and go with the 273 bell and 10" clutch and stick with the stuff that will just bolt in and go!
 
Looking for these?

The hump is an old aftermarket fiberglass piece.

I'll message you with my email address so you can contact me about them if you want to.

early a pedals & hump.JPG
 
This is a later A hump for comparison, they are quite a bit different;

1970 A-body hump.JPG
 
Interesting......

I wonder what the one I have is then, anyone?

It had a parts tag on it saying early A-body, but maybe not......
 
Thanks, nothing there matches the one I have.

Holler if interested in the pedals, you have my email address.
 
according to brewers, the tube should be 7.5" long
TS876-1.jpg
 
According to Brewers
67-76 /6 is 8"
67-76 V8 A body is 7"

they dont give a measurement, but could be:
1963-1966 A-body applications when converting to 1968 & later 10.5" bellhousings
TS636.jpg
 
Let me throw this out there....my 64 valiant already has a 727 stuffed in it, so can/should I just go to a later 10.5" bell housing and conversion Z bar?
 
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Let me throw this out there....my 64 valiant already has a 727 stuffed in it, so can/should I just go to a later 10.5" bell housing and conversion Z bar?

Also school me on the shifter bars, early and late a body interchange? Need to star looking for shifter and linkage next.
 
Ok, As I'm still gathering some parts for the conversion, will be doing a 10.5 bellhousing and flywheel since it already has a 727 in it, so the tunnel lip is already modified.

Question is what should I be looking for on the 318 motor to determine what flywheel I will need. I've found a neutral balanced flywheel locally but not sure if that is what i'm going to need.
 
A neutral balanced flywheel will work on a 318, as they were all neutral balance motors. How many teeth on the flywheel? Truck flywheels were bigger, and had like 143 teeth. I think car flywheels have 132. Have you looked into using a hydraulic throwout bearing instead of having to gather up all of the clutch linkage? The cost might be a wash, and it would be less stuff in the way of headers if you ever get some.
 
The 10.5 bellhousing swap is easy. Just use the Brewers Performance conversion parts. No need for a hydraulic throw out bearing. No "clearancing" of the firewall is necessary. As for the shifter, the 64 65 A Body Hurst works with the 6350 mounting plate and 67 later rods, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists . All A body operating levers, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists, are the same. You can also use an A or F body O/D if you use the O/D rods, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists and the O/D operating levers, Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists but you must use the standard A body reverse operating lever in place of the 875 O/D lever. The original 64-65 2298 mounting plate rotates the shifter clockwise and down. The newer rods may not have enough adjustment to work with the 2298 mounting plate. I do not know if the 64-65 rods are being reproduced. If you are lucky enough and have a set, then use the 2298 mounting plate. Of course you can also use the 68 up A body shifter instead of 64-65 shifter. They are interchangeable. Just center the hump on the shifter since the 64-65 hump has the round shifter hole.
 
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