Something In my #5 Cylinder?

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T56MaxTorq said:
A piston manufacturer doesn’t matter as much or forged or hypers, if the ring gaps butted together. Butting them up on boost is a common issue around the forums.

I’m glad you run water/meth, what ratio?

In my opinion, your timing was way too high at 27. That’s less than 1 degree of timing per psi of map. If you experienced detonation, you may have damaged it then. Detonation is a wild animal under boost.
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Another good point. Did the OP ever mention what ignition system he is using??
 
T56MaxTorq said:
A piston manufacturer doesn’t matter as much or forged or hypers, if the ring gaps butted together. Butting them up on boost is a common issue around the forums.

I’m glad you run water/meth, what ratio?

In my opinion, your timing was way too high at 27. That’s less than 1 degree of timing per psi of map. If you experienced detonation, you may have damaged it then. Detonation is a wild animal under boost.
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30% Methanol 70% distilled water. Yes, I know now that 27 was too much. I obviously didn't know that then... this will be an expensive learning process. This is my first time dealing with boost.
 
yellow rose said:
You need an ignition that retards with boost. You have to pull timing as the boost goes up.
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Not true since he is running the distributor locked out. So he sets it at the level without boost so when he gets to full boost, it’s where it needs to be.
 
To me, “locked out” means that the distributor has been modified to never allow timing retard/advance and the timing is “locked” at wherever you turn the housing to. So he’d be at 23* at both idle and 6000.

MSD sells a boost timing retard unit - expensive tho. They’re mighty proud of it.
 
T56MaxTorq said:
To me, “locked out” means that the distributor has been modified to never allow timing retard/advance and the timing is “locked” at wherever you turn the housing to. So he’d be at 23* at both idle and 6000.

MSD sells a boost timing retard unit - expensive tho. They’re mighty proud of it.
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Correct. It's locked out at 23 meaning 23 at idle and 23 at 6,500 RPM.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Not true since he is running the distributor locked out. So he sets it at the level without boost so when he gets to full boost, it’s where it needs to be.
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I get that. But with no boost or very low boost he is giving up power. And on top of that, he is limiting his ability to tune.

I've done a 180 degree turn on locked out ignitions for almost anything.

After I get my mom healed up from her surgery I should have my distributor machine up and going, as I've finally found someone to help me sort out the massive wiring that is inherent with my machine.

I can't find any schematics for it, so I'm in over my head.

I may even change my mind about running a vacuum advance with a timing curve and a high compression, big cam, pump gas engine.
 
Cool! Good luck with the machine. Wiring can be a bear sometimes.

Considering most reports from this car are from the track, I’d not be to concerned and even less because as he said, he is new to boost. So, I think it best to take it one step at a time, one change at a time. And sooner or later, he will understand it all. It’s a lot to do it all at once when your dark the scene.

If my hot rod is really HOT! and not on the street that often, doing more light to light back alley racing, I’d skip the vacuum advance. But that hasn’t happened in a long time. The street ability given with the vacuum advance is marginal but noticeable for mileage, good for street driving and a lil’bit of a pain to get right for the car. It’s worth becomes more apparent as the car gets heavier.
 
image.jpeg
Here is just one picture of my wiring debacle. It's way worse if I had a front shot. It's almost impossible if you aren't an electrical engineer to sort it out. Virtually every wire is white and I can't find much on these machines.
 
I agree, one step at a time. Time to tear it down. You’ll also want to take note of all the ring gaps from all 8.
 
Thinking it just detonated and busted a chunk out. No sign of wall scoring in the pix, like the ring seized up. I've pulled out a piston before pretty much like that; detonation broke the top edge out. Broke the ring up too, and some ring chunks worked up through the new hole. (But it ran a lot longer with the issue going on...)

10 psi and 9 SCR is not tons of pressure and SCR; I've run a lot at a true 8.2 with 14-15 psi. So the idea on the timing is probably a pretty good guess IMHO.

OP, how is your boost being controlled? Just the size ratio of the charger and engine? Any other control on that, and any gauge?
 
yellow rose said:
I get that. But with no boost or very low boost he is giving up power. And on top of that, he is limiting his ability to tune.

I've done a 180 degree turn on locked out ignitions for almost anything.

After I get my mom healed up from her surgery I should have my distributor machine up and going, as I've finally found someone to help me sort out the massive wiring that is inherent with my machine.

I can't find any schematics for it, so I'm in over my head.

I may even change my mind about running a vacuum advance with a timing curve and a high compression, big cam, pump gas engine.
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Not sure I'm really giving up any power with the timing locked out. This procharger starts making boost at 3,000 RPM. I leave the line at 3,000 RPM. It's been 6.42 @ 107 MPH in the 1/8. The car has no weight taken out and full interior, weighs 3,600 with me in it. I'm making decent power I think.
 
nm9stheham said:
Thinking it just detonated and busted a chunk out. No sign of wall scoring in the pix, like the ring seized up. I've pulled out a piston before pretty much like that; detonation broke the top edge out. Broke the ring up too, and some ring chunks worked up through the new hole. (But it ran a lot longer with the issue going on...)

10 psi and 9 SCR is not tons of pressure and SCR; I've run a lot at a true 8.2 with 14-15 psi. So the idea on the timing is probably a pretty good guess IMHO.

OP, how is your boost being controlled? Just the size ratio of the charger and engine? Any other control on that, and any gauge?
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Yes that's what I'm thinking. Boost is only controlled with the pulley on the Procharger. Right now with the current pulley makes 9-10 lbs depending on weather. I do have a boost gauge on the cowl.
 
Walker434 said:
Not sure I'm really giving up any power with the timing locked out. This procharger starts making boost at 3,000 RPM. I leave the line at 3,000 RPM. It's been 6.42 @ 107 MPH in the 1/8. The car has no weight taken out and full interior, weighs 3,600 with me in it. I'm making decent power I think.
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There is more to it than that. What if at a cruise you can use 30 or 32 total and start pulling it back at boost? It may allow you to scoot by with a slightly colder plug while not running boost.

Like I said...you need someway to control your timing and locking it out isn't it. It may be the easy way, but it can't be the best way.

Also, you can bet everything you have, everything I have and everything Jpar has (he is rich) that your timing backs up with RPM. They all do it.

So without an ignition that you can change timing with, and a distributor machine to test the complete ignition system, your still just guessing at your actual timing at any given RPM, even with the distributor locked out.

That's why I have at the moment, at least 3 complete ignition systems on the shelf for my car. Once I finally get my distributor machine up and running, I'm going to test everthing I have, label it and then use the box to add probably 4-6 degrees of timing at the tree, pull a couple out at the 1-2 shift and the pull a couple or so more out at the 3-4 shift.
 
yellow rose said:
View attachment 1715419535 Here is just one picture of my wiring debacle. It's way worse if I had a front shot. It's almost impossible if you aren't an electrical engineer to sort it out. Virtually every wire is white and I can't find much on these machines.
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What make and model of distributor machine?
 
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yellow rose said:
There is more to it than that. What if at a cruise you can use 30 or 32 total and start pulling it back at boost? It may allow you to scoot by with a slightly colder plug while not running boost.

Like I said...you need someway to control your timing and locking it out isn't it. It may be the easy way, but it can't be the best way.

Also, you can bet everything you have, everything I have and everything Jpar has (he is rich) that your timing backs up with RPM. They all do it.

So without an ignition that you can change timing with, and a distributor machine to test the complete ignition system, your still just guessing at your actual timing at any given RPM, even with the distributor locked out.

That's why I have at the moment, at least 3 complete ignition systems on the shelf for my car. Once I finally get my distributor machine up and running, I'm going to test everthing I have, label it and then use the box to add probably 4-6 degrees of timing at the tree, pull a couple out at the 1-2 shift and the pull a couple or so more out at the 3-4 shift.
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I see what you are saying. I wasn't trying to sound like an A hole. I actually love tuning and learning more about how to make cars faster. Although, right now I'm knocking on the door of a 9.99 pass which would be illegal since my car only has a 6 point roll bar. I should have built a full cage in it when I did the roll bar. You always want to go faster.

Once I get this thing back in there will be much learning and tuning this Spring. I will look into this MSD 7 and power grid.
 
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