808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
It’s my first convertible 1964 dart GT, I put it on the lift while working on the brakes the other day. I noticed some body flex looking at the door gaps, I understand some flex is normal, but what is normal? Thank you
Body flex
- Thread starter 808-dartGT
- Start date
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Did you lift it by the factory locations?
look in you factory service manual for the locations
look in you factory service manual for the locations
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Yes, they WILL flex when you lift them unless it's on a four post. Subframe connectors help to limit this, however.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
mine flexed a little bit. when on the rotisserie , but I do have to admit I didn't have floor pans or trunk pan in it when I did that, I did have it braced in the doors and windshield area. popped it down on wheels and axles . aligned the doors to the rear quarters and took measurements and then put it back on and turned it upside down. Then I welded in the floor pan. I now have good door gaps, much better than when I bought it.
808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
I think so , 4 point frame lift
808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
It was 4 point frame lift, I understand engine and rear end hangs over posts so there’s some more weight hanging over than when it sits on its wheels
808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
That’s beautiful bottom!
from 65 plymouth manual black Points are lift points
808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
It's a 55 year old unibody put together with pinch welds... waddaya want??? I took Herb McCandless' advice a several years ago and started using US Car Tools' stiffening kits when I built cars. I'm on the third one now. For a street car, a set of factory style torque boxes and the frame connectors really make a big difference! The parts are downright cheap, but the welding work is extensive. The rugs and seats have to be out for the subframe connectors, and you want to be damned sure that the car is straight when to put them in because it would be hell to straighten afterwards.
808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
I looked on their site, it does look like a lot of work
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
Thanks, It took a Loooooong time to get there and am now stalled with other projects, it's in paint has seats and 99% of the wiring but I"m still learning how to install convertible tops and making parts for the early Darts,Valiants and Barracudas so the engine and trans rebuild has gotten put on the side burner "putting it together" phase since the machining and parts buying is already done. Time has gotten ahead of me.
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I carefully hung mine down a little to get my door gaps decent. Seemed they closed up a little on top gaps over the years. I then welded in my sub frame connectors. I was a bit scared but it worked out well for me.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I thought I'd do my pans on the floor, didn't thing they'd change the flex that much, but my rockers are shot. What's the plan with that?
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
Maybe set on stands (lift point areas)then measure areas (frame,rocker edge ect;)to the floor and make sure you maintain those measurements.Make sure you maintain your door lines as well. Maybe brace door openings as well.Measure door opening widths. Just ideas.
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