340 Hydraulic Roller Available?

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kend

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I have a '73 340 I need to put together and I'd like to run a hydraulic roller if there's one available, anybody make one for it? Thanks
 
All kinds of retrofit hydraulic rollers available from Howard's, Comp, Lunati, etc. Tell us about your performance goal, build plan, and what it's going into and watch the recommendations come rolling in.
 
Better check the chamfer (or counter sink) on your lifter bores. Some are cut too deep and expose the lifter body oiling recess. A smaller base circle cam can sometimes help this so it may not be a drop in. My 72 block was chamfered too deep. 360 blocks seem to have far smaller chamfers.
 
dano said:
Better check the chamfer (or counter sink) on your lifter bores. Some are cut too deep and expose the lifter body oiling recess. A smaller base circle cam can sometimes help this so it may not be a drop in. My 72 block was chamfered too deep. 360 blocks seem to have far smaller chamfers.
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Is there a dimension for the chamfer or length of the bore that is considered acceptable? A distance to the centerline of the cam bore? I've got a 340 block that I want to run a roller in (probably a solid) but if I have to put a ton of money into sleeving the lifter bores, I'll probably change my thinking. I don't mind grinding for link clearance if needed. I'm going to deburr the entire block and look into oiling mods before I get it machined. Mine may not see enough lift to make a difference but I'm interested none the less.
 
kend said:
I have a '73 340 I need to put together and I'd like to run a hydraulic roller if there's one available, anybody make one for it? Thanks
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Dont waste your money on a roller setup for the street. Stick with a solid flat tappet cam from a reputable manufacture that grinds their own cams. Or have one of them grind a custom cam for your application.
Good luck
Dont make the same mistake I made - Hydraulic roller.
 
512Stroker said:
Dont waste your money on a roller setup for the street. Stick with a solid flat tappet cam from a reputable manufacture that grinds their own cams. Or have one of them grind a custom cam for your application.
Good luck
Dont make the same mistake I made - Hydraulic roller.
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You're going to have a tough time selling that logical answer.

The motorsports media is still leg humping that stuff up.

If you gotta have a roller lifter, use a HR lobe, use solid lifters on it, and lash them at .0015-.0020 cold and run it.

But that's a tough sell too.

You'd laugh if you saw the blown 392 hemiroid I looked over today. Straight junk. But the owner has a fetish for junk. Unreal what I was looking at.
 
yellow rose said:
If you gotta have a roller lifter, use a HR lobe, use solid lifters on it, and lash them at .0015-.0020 cold and run it.
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This works well. We did this to my oldest son's 360 a couple of years back. His only vehicle.We just ran through the valve lash Saturday, the first time since early spring, and it was a waste of time. He could have waited until this coming spring. His cam is an Oregon regrind and it works best with .003 lash.
Very reliable, setup with 273 rockers.
 
all retrofit kits come from the same vendors
the grind and springs differ as do rocker arms
and assembly details can make a difference between HR working or not working
I agree
HFT or FT can out perform a HR- unless it is a really big HR and then you should be going solid roller
for most builds cast iron 273 type rockers from Isky, crane and other QUALITY (no chineese)
will work best and be by far the most cost effective
I'd ask Mike Jones AFIK his inverse radius HR grinds are the only ones that can mechanically (geometry, whatever) match a good HT or FT grind
flat flank or minor dip in the flank HR or solid cannot possibly do it
laws of physics and all that
 
Performance goal? Even not knowing the answer I really don’t think you will need a roller. Think of it this way. The positives for a roller lifter=you can run very aggressive ramps and snap the valve open to a usable lift very quickly. With that you need substantial valve train to survive. Now think about the down side to hydr lifters=don’t like high spring pressures/rpm and aggressive ramps. A hydr roller is like mating a great white with a goldfish.
 
Also one of the quickest ways to kill a roller lifter is to have it bounce. Like if the lifter bleeds down.
 
Have it bounce BINGO
I can have a FT open just as fast as a roller on shorter durations- usually even fastr off the theseat
side loading on the roller gets too great if you try and push it
except for ones inverse radius grinds
 
Well here's my two cents hydraulic roller will work fine in the block as long as you don't put too much Cam in it as other members have already said the lifters will come out of the Moors if you have too much lift exposing the oil band on the lifter also you have push rod clearance issues with X or J heads pretty much anything that didn't come with a roller say a 302 head would work fine but it has a small port and small intake runner a better choice would be a Magnum or a magnum replacement head I know that sacrilege but that it's the way it is I hope this helps you
 
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