Tranny linkage adjustment

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I just spent 3 hours working on mine to no avail. This thing is KILLING me. It grinds so bad going into reverse that I'm embarrassed to drive it anywhere. My shifter is also giving me the *****. I did as described above by inserting a 1/4" drill bit in the neutral lockout hole and all the linkage rods were perfect already but it is still grinding going up to second and down to second. Synchro shot?? I'm running a Hurst V-Gate shifter if anyone knows about any quirks with these, please tell....cause I'm about to toss it in the dumpster and put the factory shifter back on..... Damn it, I need a drink.
 
SSG, I'm thinking internal if you've gone through all that.
Coming from any gear going to reverse it grinds the same?
Using gear lube? Last time changed? A lot of gold speckles in the old?

Shifter/linkage.... Do you have metallic as opposed to nylon bushings for the shift rods? Make sure they aren't worn and/or sloppy.
Pull the boot off so you can see the gate. Engine off, shifting out of 1st going to 2nd. Is the gate dropping all the way consistently and not bouncing through the travel?
With a helper shifting through the pattern can you see two rods trying to move at the same time?
 
Daves69 said:
SSG, I'm thinking internal if you've gone through all that.
Coming from any gear going to reverse it grinds the same?
Using gear lube? Last time changed? A lot of gold speckles in the old?

Shifter/linkage.... Do you have metallic as opposed to nylon bushings for the shift rods? Make sure they aren't worn and/or sloppy.
Pull the boot off so you can see the gate. Engine off, shifting out of 1st going to 2nd. Is the gate dropping all the way consistently and not bouncing through the travel?
With a helper shifting through the pattern can you see two rods trying to move at the same time?
Click to expand...

I'm running Pennzoil synchromesh GL-4. Just changed it over the winter and the old oil was SAE 30wt. and I didn't notice any gold or metallic sparkle to it.
The linkage is all adjusted properly and has metallic bushings and are all snug.
With the engine off, I can shift through all gears with no problem or binding including reverse.
With engine running, it grinds going into reverse no matter what I do. I've tried double clutching, putting it in all other gears then going to reverse.......
One thing I noticed, If I adjust my clutch to have any space between my throwout bearing and the pressure plate levers, then I don't get enough disc departure and the car creeps in gear and is tough to get into first. Could this have something to do with the grinding?
 
It shifted a little better with the factory shifter, but still not great. I replaced it because it was totally ragged out and needed a full reconditioning. Plus, I like the quick shifting with the V-Gate.
I dread the thought of pulling the trans as I just got it all back together after a winter engine overhaul and was looking forward to the summer cruising season.
 
Also, I don't have an overcenter spring and my pressure plate is borg-beck style. Would this affect the adjustment problem? I thought it was just there to make it a little easier to push the pedal.....Sorry I hijacked this thread but I think Scamper solved his problem already.....
 
So this was doing the grind before the engine pull?
Probably should use the spring for that setup.
Are two rods trying to move at the same time when someone runs it through the pattern. (trying to rule out the shifter)
Make sure the finger heights are even as installed for all three to contact the release bearing simultaneously.
What do you have for a pilot for the input shaft bushing or bearing?
 
The overcenter spring should be used with a B&B pressure plate but I'm not sure if that's your problem.

Are you sure you have the right rods for your new shifter?
 
SSG_Karg said:
I'm running Pennzoil synchromesh GL-4. Just changed it over the winter and the old oil was SAE 30wt. and I didn't notice any gold or metallic sparkle to it.
The linkage is all adjusted properly and has metallic bushings and are all snug.
With the engine off, I can shift through all gears with no problem or binding including reverse.
With engine running, it grinds going into reverse no matter what I do. I've tried double clutching, putting it in all other gears then going to reverse.......
One thing I noticed, If I adjust my clutch to have any space between my throwout bearing and the pressure plate levers, then I don't get enough disc departure and the car creeps in gear and is tough to get into first. Could this have something to do with the grinding?
Click to expand...

You should have .06 of an inch departure between the clutch and flywheel or pressure plate. Is the pressure plate correct for your car? Are the fingers at the correct height? If yes, then you may be getting deflection in your linkage. Or you may need a longer lower arm on the Z-bar to get enough travel, doubtful. Creeping in gear with the clutch in, or a throwout bearing always touching, is very bad. It does not sound like a shifter problem, so far.

As others have said, You should run the overcenter spring with a anything except a diaphragm pressure plate.
 
Daves69 said:
So this was doing the grind before the engine pull?
Probably should use the spring for that setup.
Are two rods trying to move at the same time when someone runs it through the pattern. (trying to rule out the shifter)
Make sure the finger heights are even as installed for all three to contact the release bearing simultaneously.
What do you have for a pilot for the input shaft bushing or bearing?
Click to expand...

It was doing the grind before the engine was pulled. I haven't got to check to see if two rods are trying to move at the same time yet but I'm very confident I've got them adjusted properly.
One thing I noticed this morning while under the car, is that one finger on the pressure plate is set back a little farther than the other two. Why?
I run a bronze pilot bushing. Its probably got 5000 miles on it.
I'm thinking of trying a heavier weight lube to slow things down a bit inside. What do you guys run?
Also, my car was originally an auto on column but converted to 4 spd. I'm not entirely sure I've got the correct pedal setup or Z-bar. My pedal pushrod is contacting the inner fender a little at full pedal.
When I adjust the clutch to have some gap between the throw out bearing and the fingers, the clutch does not fully disengage and the car creeps. Could that be a symptom of an incorrect z-bar?
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
The overcenter spring should be used with a B&B pressure plate but I'm not sure if that's your problem.

Are you sure you have the right rods for your new shifter?
Click to expand...

I'm positive the linkage rods are correct. I got everything together with shifter. It was a brand new installation kit for a bodies for that shifter.

Makes me question whether my pedal set is correct because I cant get the over center spring to attach anywhere??
 
SSG_Karg said:
It was doing the grind before the engine was pulled.


One thing I noticed this morning while under the car, is that one finger on the pressure plate is set back a little farther than the other two. Why?


I run a bronze pilot bushing. Its probably got 5000 miles on it.
Click to expand...

Sounds you put the same problem back together and you may have missed an opportunity check things out.

If I'm thinking right (and someone help me out if I'm in foul territory), the fingers need to be even for the departure to be parallel over the whole disc. A low one will give late departure in that leg area. It may be possible the clutch is partially engaged when you try to shift. If you can imagine a three legged stool with one short leg. The seat would not be parallel to the surface it sits on.
My feeling now is the needed finger travel to release the disc is too great causing the need for more pedal travel. It may be due to a stretched eye bot on the cover, improperly adjusted eyebolt, broken or weak springs in the cover, or a bent finger.

Did you test for slip fit of the input shaft into the bushing?
 
Not sure what you mean by slip fit. I assume you mean it does not bind? No, it went together just fine.
I adjusted the clutch to the point the grinding is minimal but the throwout bearing is tight against the fingers. I know that's no good, but if I back it off then it grinds very badly and I cant even get it to go all the way into first.
Something is definitely FUBAR here. I'm gonna do a search to see if I can find a pic of a set of 72 Duster pedals to see if they match mine. I suspect they wont. But would incorrect pedal assembly cause the gears to grind?? shouldn't.
I plan to drain the fluid and replace it with something a little heavier....90wt or 140wt??? Thoughts on this?
 
Found what I was looking for in the chassis manual I think.
My take on the use of this fixture is (as I cannot find specific instruction or maybe I can't read).......

Bolt the clutch cover over the 10" X .310" disk with 1.700" spacer to the flywheel.
Bolt the 2.650" disk to the spacer.
Adjust the eyebolt nuts so that the face of each finger just contacts the bottom of the 2.650" disk.
Remove fixture and stake the nuts to lock them.
 

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SSG_Karg said:
Not sure what you mean by slip fit. I assume you mean it does not bind? No, it went together just fine.
I adjusted the clutch to the point the grinding is minimal but the throwout bearing is tight against the fingers. I know that's no good, but if I back it off then it grinds very badly and I cant even get it to go all the way into first.
Something is definitely FUBAR here. I'm gonna do a search to see if I can find a pic of a set of 72 Duster pedals to see if they match mine. I suspect they wont. But would incorrect pedal assembly cause the gears to grind?? shouldn't.
I plan to drain the fluid and replace it with something a little heavier....90wt or 140wt??? Thoughts on this?
Click to expand...



Here is an article that may interest you............
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...12_four_speed_a_body_clutch_pedal_adjustment/


I don't think I'd use 140. Too cold last winter. That stuff may not be thawed out yet!
 
Daves69 said:
Found what I was looking for in the chassis manual I think.
My take on the use of this fixture is (as I cannot find specific instruction or maybe I can't read).......

Bolt the clutch cover over the 10" X .310" disk with 1.700" spacer to the flywheel.
Bolt the 2.650" disk to the spacer.
Adjust the eyebolt nuts so that the face of each finger just contacts the bottom of the 2.650" disk.
Remove fixture and stake the nuts to lock them.
Click to expand...

Gonna crawl under and check but I think those nuts are already staked from the factory and I'm not sure I can adjust them.
I've got the clutch adjusted to .050 departure as per the manufacturer specs, but the throw out bearing is tight against the pressure plate fingers. What gives? I'll post a pic of my pedal setup and pushrod. I'm thinking I'm not getting the proper travel in pedal swing causing the initial adjustment to be to tight to achieve full release of the clutch disc at full depression of the pedal.
 
SSG_Karg said:
............ I think those nuts are already staked from the factory and I'm not sure I can adjust them.
Click to expand...

Yes, I believe they should be but I'm sure you can force turn them and then re-stake.

If something is stretched, bent, or broken you'll need to pull it out to fix or replace it I think.

Incidentally, if you've been running that disk for some time it will likely be worn more in one area.
 
That could be why I'm having a little bit of chatter right before the clutch fully engages. I'm gonna swap to 90wt this week and give it a try before I go and yank the trans. Don't really want to do that at the start of cruising season.
 
I have a linkage alignment issue. I have a 64 dart wagon in which I installed an a833. I believe i bought the linkage on ebay and its possibly home made. I pin all the shift levers on the shifter, hook up my linkage and the reverse arm on the shifter does not have enough travel to get it into reverse. Ive tried putting the trans in reverse and heating and bending the reverse linkage to fit but it then will not go back into neutral. I have a feeling this linkage is not the right lengths and this is my problem. Or, the shift levers on the trans are not correct and the throw is not correct. Any expert thoughts on this would be great. Thanks.
 
What shifter do you have in the 64 Dart Wagon? Early A's do use slightly different rods. Mopar uses a specific shifter with a unique reverse lever. Any pictures? Maybe you should start a new thread.
 
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