Surprise! Now what...

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JF900

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OK, so a week or so ago, I opened up the 340 out of my car and found this.
20191030_182000.jpg

The good thing is I've got the numbers matching motor that has a spun big end bearing. I wasn't planning for this so I'm on a budget. I'm not planning any strip time, and just want a healthy street car that's torquey and fun to drive. This is what I'm thinking. Stroke it with a SCAT 4" forged crank, and rods and use the stock heads (refreshed). The original crank is OK, but would need cleaned up, but I was thinking that stroking it would provide plenty of torque and extra cubes. The car has 410 gears, and I've got a Holley 750 with Strip Dominator intake, headers and 3" exhaust.
Thuoghts are appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Two things, actually two words that I notice first thing reading your post:
budget and stroker. Those two don't really go together... you'll need pistons too.

Aside from that I wouldn't build a stroker motor with a block that's been "fixed" with glue.
 
You're on a budget and the first thing off your keyboard is stroker? Your budget and mine must be vastly different.

That said, did you ever knock that epoxy off the block to see what was under it?
 
Strokers can be expensive, I've got $13,000 into mine (but I needed everything heads, intake etc). The Blueprint Engines deal is pretty sweet, you might want to look at them. Oh and you WON'T need a 4.10 gears trust me. My 418 stroker has 516 ft lbs of torque. Breaks the tires loose at a 1/4 pedal stab at 35 mph and I have 3.55 gears. They're a lot of fun!
 
Have the block baked and get that stuff off. Then have it liquid magnafluxed to see everything that the naked eye can't see. If cracked or machined through I would have it spray welded. I would only do that for a numbers matching restoration. Spray weld powder is very expensive.

Glue has no place on an engine unless it is plastic and 1/25 scale.

You can make perfume out of **** but in the end it will still smell like what you started with. Find another block with a low number such as 340-1 to 340-3 for your build. Stroker engines put more stress on the cylinder walls lower numbers seem to sonic test better than higher numbers . Just a thought!
 
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You may have misunderstood - the glued motor was the motor that was in the car - it's done. I'm now moving to the numbers matching original that came with the car.
As far as budget, after I subtract the regrind on the original crank out I can get a decent SCAT crank for $400 more. I'm replacing rods regardless. I'm thinking in the future I could swap the iron heads out for eddys if I wanted to take another step up.
 
JF900 said:
OK, so a week or so ago, I opened up the 340 out of my car and found this.
View attachment 1715422734
The good thing is I've got the numbers matching motor that has a spun big end bearing. I wasn't planning for this so I'm on a budget. I'm not planning any strip time, and just want a healthy street car that's torquey and fun to drive. This is what I'm thinking. Stroke it with a SCAT 4" forged crank, and rods and use the stock heads (refreshed). The original crank is OK, but would need cleaned up, but I was thinking that stroking it would provide plenty of torque and extra cubes. The car has 410 gears, and I've got a Holley 750 with Strip Dominator intake, headers and 3" exhaust.
Thuoghts are appreciated.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Damn shame
 
What’s the goal? Original heads will not flow enough for a stroker without 2” valves and a port job. You’re better off with a stock crank.
 
flyfish said:
Eh....you asked the same question a few weeks ago.......
What is this and why would it be there?
Click to expand...
We'll actually I asked about the original epoxy issue. Now I trying to figure out what the replacement build should be. In the last thread Furrystump said he liked his 4" stroker and now I'm investigating if that makes sense for my situation.
Any thoughts?
 
T56MaxTorq said:
What’s the goal? Original heads will not flow enough for a stroker without 2” valves and a port job. You’re better off with a stock crank.
Click to expand...

He's not building a race car. His goal is simply a "healthy street car that's torquey and fun to drive" - says so in the first post. You don't need fancy heads to build that.
 
I didn't read if you have a block or not
but if you need to still get a block, and get that machined then the smart money is on a blueprint stroker
 
JF900 said:
We'll actually I asked about the original epoxy issue. Now I trying to figure out what the replacement build should be. In the last thread Furrystump said he liked his 4" stroker and now I'm investigating if that makes sense for my situation.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Ah, gotcha, I saw the pic and thought it was a repeat.

What you listed in the first post would work just fine for a street car, but since you are not racing you could save a big chunk of $$$ by using Scat's cast crank (I would still use their forged I-beams though, cost effective and strong). Just know that with stock heads it won't make much HP....good torque, but not too much HP.
 
JF900 said:
We'll actually I asked about the original epoxy issue. Now I trying to figure out what the replacement build should be. In the last thread Furrystump said he liked his 4" stroker and now I'm investigating if that makes sense for my situation.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I did my Stroker with stock heads with 188 valves.. and just like you said when I had the money I upgraded to 202 valves..
And now I bought some Speedmaster heads for $820 sent to my door.. I plan to try them but I have way more than that in my stock heads.. especially after having them rebuilt once and doing some Port work and more work putting 202 in..
I bought my stroker kit from Jegs for $1,400. That was the scat crank scat rods icon forged pistons rings and bearings for everything... There was I'll probably 250 to $300 in machine work to make it happen in balancing and such..
I have been extremely happy with the torque from day one and continue to have fun with it and upgraded five years later now...
that's my two, I'm not telling you this is the way you should do anyting but just giving you an example of what I did that's all.. have fun and happy Mopar to ya...
 
mopowers said:
He's not building a race car. His goal is simply a "healthy street car that's torquey and fun to drive" - says so in the first post. You don't need fancy heads to build that.
Click to expand...

Don’t need a fancy crank, rods, and pistons either.

1.88” valves will choke a stroker. Why add stroke to choke it with a valve?
 
If you do build a stocker engine do the smart thing and get it Chevy sized. Less block grinding, better bearing choices.
 
I will also add when I went from the 188 valves to the 202 there was no noticeable Difference In My Time Slips...
 
j par said:
I will also add when I went from the 188 valves to the 202 there was no noticeable Difference In My Time Slips...
Click to expand...


Did you just add the valves or did you do the needed adjustments to the throat and if so can you explain what you did and how you went about this job. Asking for a Friend
 
mopowers said:
He's not building a race car. His goal is simply a "healthy street car that's torquey and fun to drive" - says so in the first post. You don't need fancy heads to build that.
Click to expand...

.....or a stroker.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Did you just add the valves or did you do the needed adjustments to the throat and if so can you explain what you did and how you went about this job. Asking for a Friend
Click to expand...
I had the Machine Shop unload the heads and give them to me and I commenced two doing my first Home Port job.. with some tips from my machine shop opened up the bowl area and smooth out the exhaust. I paid them for two hours of Port work on top of that and then they put the 202 in.. so I really never did get to see without the valves and what their work look like.. (I should this winter when I put the less-expensive Speedmasters in) I also took off the 273 rockers and put in Hughes 1.6:1 rollers...
I welded in my eight point roll bar in anticipation of the car launching into outer space... It didn't happen...lol...
 
Jpar the reason I asked and I did it myself years ago is just jumping up to a bigger valve should always help but proper sizing is needed. Throat sizing under the valve is often overlooked. The throat on an intake valve should be 88-91% of the valve size. Some guys push this figure a little but if you lose the venture effect (speeding air flow) exiting the valve, you trash the head. To small and you lose available gains.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Jpar the reason I asked and I did it myself years ago is just jumping up to a bigger valve should always help but proper sizing is needed. Throat sizing under the valve is often overlooked. The throat on an intake valve should be 88-91% of the valve size. Some guys push this figure a little but if you lose the venture effect (speeding air flow) exiting the valve, you trash the head. To small and you lose available gains.
Click to expand...
You might as well have wrote that in a different language LOL... I'm willing to learn though..
 
pittsburghracer said:
Jpar the reason I asked and I did it myself years ago is just jumping up to a bigger valve should always help but proper sizing is needed. Throat sizing under the valve is often overlooked. The throat on an intake valve should be 88-91% of the valve size. Some guys push this figure a little but if you lose the venture effect (speeding air flow) exiting the valve, you trash the head. To small and you lose available gains.
Click to expand...


Personally, I don't like to go over 88% on a 45 degree seat but I know Chad Spier and many others will go up to 94%.

Over 88% I just use a 50 degree seat. I like the shape of the bowl better at percentages over 88.
 
j par said:
You might as well have wrote that in a different language LOL... I'm willing to learn though..
Click to expand...


If all goes well I'll be documenting that and more when I build my next junker.

And the cool thing is I'll be documenting honing a cylinder on a new Rottler 8 headed diamond stone hone!!
 
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