Surprise! Now what...

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Soon after buying my dart I found the 318 was trash. I figured "why pay almost the same for a replacement when for a little more I could have a stroker?" and so I bought a (no longer available) blueprint 408 shortblock. Which, by the way, was an awesome purchase.

I kept the LAX 1.92 heads that were already on the 318 (also already had headers and 3:91 gears). The problem with the stroker is that even with a ~240 @.050 cam (~.510 lift) all the fun is over at 5800 rpm. I run a 4spd, and so I get about 2300 rpm of 'fun' before having to shift. I doubt a much bigger cam will help a whole lot (and I'm already spring-limited as the heads are cut for 1.250 OD springs). It sucks, it's boring! It's like driving a truck! It's too tame and lacks all of the screaming revs that should be associated with a muscle car.

I don't race, it's a cruiser and loud toy that pisses off neighbors and yet it lacks the fun-factor that the 318 had (because it wound-up to 7200 all day, even though it was not very quick). I want to hang onto a gear for more than the 2-3 seconds it takes to get to the next shift. Instead I wind up rowing through the gears or just skipping 2nd altogether. It pulls like a train but drops back to 2300 after each shift and I seriously wish it would climb higher in the revs before falling off a log. It'll run all the way to 7k, but there's notably less pull as I go beyond 5600, and after 6 it's like beating a rented mule. Don't get me wrong, it's quick and it pulls and is exactly what I *thought* I wanted. But when it comes to a 'fun' car, it's not as fun when it's practical. A fun car should be a little closer to the ragged edge than most seem to shoot for, I think. Even if it only makes 400 horse, it's a lot more 'fun' when to rip right up through the revs. Trailer-towing rpms just aren't exciting, even if it DOES make 550+ ft-lbs..

If I had to do it again, I wouldn't opt for a stroker shortblock unless I had MUCH better flowing heads to match and I'd go with the max lift I could and wouldn't be afraid of duration in the ~250 range @.050 either. I'd also opt for 10.5 or 11:1 since it's easier to lose compression than gain it and most calculators are generous anyway... Even with my '62' cc heads and the KB356 pistons BP uses, the compression comes out around 9.8 with .039 gaskets. If I build one myself, I'll use KB107's (even with the 60cc TF heads).

As it sits now, my finger is hovering over the button to order some TF heads because by the time I get my LAX heads worked over, it would probably be a wash as far as cost goes (and take less time and comes with a warranty) and with a stroker there's no such thing as too much head. Unless it's for a truck.. With how fast the piston comes off TDC I just can't see any justification for low-flowing heads. That slowness off TDS also means the exhaust has a harder time pulling in the intake charge especially with a closed-chamber head, and so the head has to play catch-up as soon as that piston heads back down. I have no practical experience with it, but the physics definitely make sense to me and it seems to trend well with most racers using strokers too. Almost makes you wish for a stroker piston with a lot higher pin location... but that's a different topic.
 
I like 85-90% of the valve, but that's splitting hairs.
If you go Stroker and don't put something 248@.050 or bigger into it...you just built a truck motor.
 
My heads actually wound up with 2.08 valves in my Edelbrock heads. I bought them bare and I had my machinist check the valve guides, install the valves and seals and do a little port work and gasket match to the intake.
 
Well the machine shop just let me know that to use the steel heads they'll need everything including seats. I guess a set of Edelbrock heads are going on the list. Is there a good alternative cost effective head? Notes taken on the need for flow.
So to those not impressed with stroking a 340 - what's a good alternative build?
 
Well the machine shop just let me know that to use the steel heads they'll need everything including seats. I guess a set of Edelbrock heads are going on the list. Is there a good alternative cost effective head? Notes taken on the need for flow.
So to those not impressed with stroking a 340 - what's a good alternative build?
Don't know about the others but my 418 stroker pulls strong all the way to 6000 RPMs
 
Well the machine shop just let me know that to use the steel heads they'll need everything including seats. I guess a set of Edelbrock heads are going on the list. Is there a good alternative cost effective head? Notes taken on the need for flow.
So to those not impressed with stroking a 340 - what's a good alternative build?


Do yourself a favor and buy the Trick Flow heads.

Much better pieces.
 
It pulls like a train but drops back to 2300
I run a 4spd, and so I get about 2300 rpm of 'fun' before having to shift.
Instead I wind up rowing through the gears or just skipping 2nd altogether

5800 less 2300 is 3500rpm, so I'm a lil confused.
The regular 4 speed will drop from 5800 to ~4180 or 1620 rpm
(5800less 2300)/5800 is 60% and that points straight to a very wide ratio box, and the only Mopar box I know of, that is like that, is the A833-OVERDRIVE box, which has very wide splits; and the 3.91s stack them real close together. A lower number rear gear will spread them out.
Maybe this will help;
IMO you might like one of the "regular" boxs better. the standard ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 and the new splits are .72-.73-.71 much tighter compared to
3.09-1.67-1.00 -.73 with splits of............ .54-.60-.73

Lets say I guessed right that you have an overdrive box. and lets put the ratios into road gears with the 3.91s. And I get;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
The fact that you say you can skip second gear, tells me that 6.53 is too low a gear for you and first is carrying you high enough to grab 3.91 third gear. And the fact that your engine is pulling 3.91 third gear from 1850ish@38 mph, tells me that's a heck of an engine.

Ok so then, you need a properly working second gear, and my money is on something between 6.53 and 3.91. Lets try something in the 5.xx range; say 5.30. and that points to a 2.76rear gear. The new road gears would be
--7.34-5.30-3.86-2.76 compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
Ok but 7.34 is kindof a clutch eater so lets swap to a Commando box, which has a 3.09 low gear, and the rest are the same. Your new roadgears are
--8.53-5.30-3.86-2.76... compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od There yago.
Notice how third and fourth are about the same, and second is better than the current second which you are occasionally skipping.
Ok so now, your rpms will drop to .62-.73-.71. If you shift at 5800, then these are to 3600 into second,to 4234into third, and to 4120 into fourth which will now take full power.
Yeah first will be doggier but com'on; 12.08 is a race starter-gear .

Ok so lets look at the speeds with a 5800rpm shift. First the current box with 3.91s, you will be topping out at
37-71-119-164.. From 37 to 71 is 34mph, and from 71 to 119 is 48, and from 119 to 164 is fogetabowdit. Ok so
remember 34/48/xx
Next with the Commando and 2.76s you will be topping out at
55-88-121-169.. Again third and fourth are very similar, but first gear now goes 49% higher, and second goes 24% higher. You wanted higher, right? Well here it is.
From 55 to 88 is 33mph, and from 88 to 121 is 33mph. You wanted tighter? here it is.m Now
remember 33/33/xx
Ok but say you wanna stack 'em closer together put the 3.91s back in and run the 2.66 box. The new road gears are
10.40-7.51-5.47-3.91
compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od ..You See that 5.xx in the mix? Now it's third gear. And the roadspeeds will be 45-62-85-119 from 45 to 62 is 17mph, and from 62 to 85 is 23mph, and from 85 to 119 is 34 mph. That's pretty tight; you'll be blasting thru there so fast, you might not be able to keep up lol. Now
remember 17/23/34

Personally Ima thinking the overdrive might not be so bad for your combo, but those 3.91s are just too much. Lets see what that box looks like with 3.23s. The roadgears are
9.98-5.39-3.23-2.36 .. compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
See; I put that 5.xx into second again. Still at 5800, the roadspeeds will be
47-86-144-***. from 47 to 86 is 39mph, and from 86 to 144 is 58mph. now
remember 39/58/xx. I was wrong; that box is just crap.... for your combo.
Just trying to be helpful here.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I ran that od box behind my 367HO for one summer which was too long;and then I got me a GVod to split gears. That was a sweetheart deal on the upshifts; but with 3.55s in the back, that 367 did not like the wide ratios, and splitting All-The-Time,really became a nuisance. Plus I broke two of those od boxes. So I was done with them.
Currently I use the Commando and 3.55s. The roadgears are;
10.97-6.83-4.97-3.55 and the roadspeeds are (5800shift) 43-68-94-131. The spreads to
remember are 25,26,37mph.... Works real nice in my combo. She hit 93 in the Eighth at 3467 pounds
Happy Hotrodding
 
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5800 less 2300 is 3500rpm, so I'm a lil confused.
The regular 4 speed will drop from 5800 to ~4180 or 1620 rpm
(5800less 2300)/5800 is 60% and that points straight to a very wide ratio box, and the only Mopar box I know of, that is like that, is the A833-OVERDRIVE box, which has very wide splits; and the 3.91s stack them real close together. A lower number rear gear will spread them out.
Maybe this will help;
IMO you might like one of the "regular" boxs better. the standard ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 and the new splits are .72-.73-.71 much tighter compared to
3.09-1.67-1.00 -.73 with splits of............ .54-.60-.73

Lets say I guessed right that you have an overdrive box. and lets put the ratios into road gears with the 3.91s. And I get;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
The fact that you say you can skip second gear, tells me that 6.53 is too low a gear for you and first is carrying you high enough to grab 3.91 third gear. And the fact that your engine is pulling 3.91 third gear from 1877@38 mph, tells me that's a heck of an engine.

Ok so then, you need a properly working second gear, and my money is on something between 6.53 and 3.91. Lets try something in the 5.xx range; say 5.30. and that points to a 2.76rear gear. The new road gears would be
--7.34-5.30-3.86-2.76 compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
Ok but 7.34 is kindof a clutch eater so lets swap to a Commando box, which has a 3.09 low gear, and the rest are the same. Your new roadgears are
--8.53-5.30-3.86-2.76... compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od There yago.
Notice how third and fourth are about the same, and second is better than the current second which you are occasionally skipping.
Ok so now, your rpms will drop to .62-.73-.71. If you shift at 5800, then these are to 3600 into second,to 4234into third, and to 4120 into fourth which will now take full power.
Yeah first will be doggier but com'on 12.08 is a race starter-gear .

Ok so lets look at the speeds with a 5800rpm shift. First the current box with 3.91s, you will be topping out at
37-71-119-164.. From 37 to 71 is 34mph, and from 71 to 119 is 48, and from 119 to 164 is fogetabowdit
Next with the Commando and 2.76s you will be topping out at
55-88-121-169.. Again third and fourth are very similar, but first gear now goes 49% higher, and second goes 24% higher. You wanted higher, right? Well here it is.
From 55 to 88 is 33mph, and from 88 to 121 is 33mph. You wanted tighter? here it is.
Ok but say you wanna stack 'em closer together put the 3.91s back in and run the 2.66 box. The new road gears are
10.40-7.51-5.47-3.91
compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od ..You See that 5.xx in the mix? Now it's third gear. And the roadspeeds will be 45-62-85-119 from 45 to 62 is 17mph, and from 62 to 85 is 23mph, and from 85 to 119 is 34 mph. That's pretty tight; you'll be blasting thru there so fast, you might not be able to keep up lol.

Personally Ima thinking the overdrive might not be so bad for your combo, but those 3.91s are just too much. Lets see what that box looks like with 3.23s. The roadgears are
9.98-5.39-3.23-2.36 .. compared to the current
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85od
See; I put that 5.xx into second again. Still at 5800, the roadspeeds will be
47-86-144-***. from 47 to 86 is 39mph, and from 86 to 144 is 58mph. I was wrong; that box is just crap.... for your combo.
Just trying to be helpful here.
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I ran that od box behind my 367HO for one summer which was too long;and then I got me a GVod to split gears. That was a sweetheart deal on the upshifts; but with 3.55s in the back, that 367 did not like the wide ratios, and splitting All-The-Time,really became a nuisance. Plus I broke two of those od boxes. So I was done with them.
Currently I use the Commando and 3.55s. The roadgears are;
10.97-6.83-4.97-3.55 and the roadspeeds are (5800shift) 43-68-94-131. The spreads are 25,26,37mph.... Works real nice in my combo. She hit 93 in the Eighth at 3467 pounds
Happy Hotrodding

Non OD std ratios (and a 25.5" tire), 2nd drops almost no revs (or so it feels like) and all the power is way low due to the choked head and smallish (for a stroker) cam. It pulls hard, it's just not so much 'fun' because it feels like driving my tractor.. LOL
If I grab second from 5800rpm, I'm looking for third almost as fast as I can let the clutch out. Hell, I've pulled from my drive in 3rd after not driving it for the winter and honestly didn't notice anything wrong until I left the next stop in first.

It's damn impressive, it's just not my kind of "fun" is my point because it just feels like a truck. Just as it gets exciting, it's time to shift back to quiet and boring..

Would be a great motor for a daily driver 4 door though. If it had an OD and taller tires (27.5+) because of the short second and 3500 highway revs.
 
Well the machine shop just let me know that to use the steel heads they'll need everything including seats. I guess a set of Edelbrock heads are going on the list. Is there a good alternative cost effective head? Notes taken on the need for flow.
So to those not impressed with stroking a 340 - what's a good alternative build?
Find a 360 block and stroke it, save the 340 for a stock stroke build. I lost a piston and cyl wall and I'd have been a lil bummed if it were my 340 block that ate ****. That's a rarity, dont let it spook you, **** just happens sometimes and just like people wanna spend your money on forged cranks and other things you won't really need...I'm just putting it out there as an option, not a have to.
If you go stroker... approach it the right way. What parts are you using ,heads for instance, and then have a cam ground that takes advantage of what you have, those heads. It might need a narrow lsa and some adv in the intake lobe to make use of not so great flowing heads also hindered by the small port volume, in order to get some decent rpm out of it. If the heads are less than desired...youll be building around them.The more handicap the heads are...the narrower/nastier the cam ends up to make it work...and that can trickle into the rest.
 
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All good input... but I think the OP has to define his idea of 'budget'.
Its gonna cost about 2,000ish if he assembles himself and had prices for machine work as I do here to build a 375-400 hp motor. Talking kb pistons or sealed power, .500 lift cam, stock heads rebuilt w/valves/springs.

Throw 400-600 more for port work and bench time.
 
I was waiting for somebody to ask - $8k. I need almost everything at this point. All I have is a block, oil pan, timing cover, intake, carb, valve covers and air cleaner.
I'll have to see what the price difference between Edelbrock and Trick Flows are.
What is the risk in using the 340 block if I stroke it. I didn't think it was any higher than a hot stock build. I'm using a good local builder and will be dyno'd when done. He does all of his own machining.
 
I was waiting for somebody to ask - $8k. I need almost everything at this point. All I have is a block, oil pan, timing cover, intake, carb, valve covers and air cleaner.
I'll have to see what the price difference between Edelbrock and Trick Flows are.
What is the risk in using the 340 block if I stroke it. I didn't think it was any higher than a hot stock build. I'm using a good local builder and will be dyno'd when done. He does all of his own machining.


8K budget, minus 7799 for an engine, minus 50 bucks for a waterpump, that leaves you 151 bucks for a finders fee for me

BluePrint Engines 408CI Stroker Crate Engine | Small Block Chrysler Style | Dressed Longblock with Fuel Injection | Aluminum Heads | Flat Tappet Cam
 
That said, did you ever knock that epoxy off the block to see what was under it?

Yes, Im wondering what is under the rib between each lifter pair. That rib makes straight link bar roller lifters unuseable. Im thinking maybe an oil galley?
 
Yes, Im wondering what is under the rib between each lifter pair. That rib makes straight link bar roller lifters unuseable. Im thinking maybe an oil galley?

Either that or I would think water jacket.
 
Either that or I would think water jacket.
yeah, they aint oil....Next time I'm at pick-a-part I'm gonna take a hammer to one of those ribs on a 318 block to see what happens. Anyone got a rusty scrap LA block they want to take an angle grinder to? Mission is to see if we can grind those flat with no breaking into a water jacket.
 
I agree. I have 7500.00 in my R3 422 but that included a new machined R3 block, Stroker kit, cam, bearings, rings, Indy intake, and 360-1 heads. Everything new
Did you do assembly?
Has anyone used Promaxx heads? I've read they are really nice in comparison to Edelbrock for the same money. Can anyone confirm?
 
The same Pittsburghracer that replied before has a nice thread on Promaxx vs. Edelbrock heads. Somewhere here on the forum...
 
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