MSD Disappointment ??

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Kendog 170 said:
What speed? It barely turns over. When I re curved it I used a light spring from (Mr Gasket ) kit? Left the lighter of the two stock springs alone. My timing is set at 8' BTDC total at 36' I don't use the vac can as it causes detonation? Street car but ran a 11.7 1/4 mile on Nostalia Day last year with it with a 323 gear found out when I got home the secondaries were only opening 3/4 of the way. turns out I was missing the small bracket that holds the cable back an inch that I have since fixed.
But I value your opinion and will look into that as well .
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You need to find someone local to you with a distributor machine and get it tested. You cant always see how much timing you are pulling while cranking with a timing light.

What you can do is put your timing light on and get the engine nice and warm. Then turn the idle down as slow as you can and then see how much timing you have.

Also, you may have an issue with your mechanical advance not quite returning back to fully closed when you turn the engine off, which would mean at cranking you are getting more timing that you need.
 
MSD, May Suddenly Die! But that 'pulling a plug will kill it' may have happened to me eons ago! Motor just died, popped the hood and I think I did see a plug wire hanging off come to think of it. But the 2nd time on a second box shoved me over to the Mallory camp. No issue since....
 
yellow rose said:
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Also, you may have an issue with your mechanical advance not quite returning back to fully closed when you turn the engine off, which would mean at cranking you are getting more timing that you need.
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I had this issue on a 340, hot starts were embarrassing. I almost got stuck on a car ferry 'cause the friggin thing wouldnt start back up. Got it home and the dual point advance plate was corroded. Couple shots of WD-40 made it snappy again and didnt not have any future problems.
 
My only problem with MSD which definitely is not a problem LOL was I went from a bone stock as a rock ignition to full MSD everything and did not pick up "zip nada" in the quarter mile...
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would normally agree. However, in his original post, he says he's over 10:1 and has 175 PSI cranking pressure. That engine is NOT going to want 18* initial.
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You could be right
But I would still add more initial timing (2 degrees at at time) until he finds the sweet spot.
I have never run an engine at 8 degrees initial.
I would try it and see what happens.
OP - where is your battery located?
What size cable did you use?
Is the negative grounded on the block?
 
512Stroker said:
You could be right
But I would still add more initial timing (2 degrees at at time) until he finds the sweet spot.
I have never run an engine at 8 degrees initial.
I would try it and see what happens.
OP - where is your battery located?
What size cable did you use?
Is the negative grounded on the block?
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I agree 100%. I am simply saying he should keep it in mind as he's advancing initial if he decides to try it. That's a lot invested to risk damage with spark knock.
 
j par said:
For discussion sake and totally not arguing whatsoever...
That hot of a cam and not needing more initial timing?..
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512Stroker said:
You could be right
But I would still add more initial timing (2 degrees at at time) until he finds the sweet spot.
I have never run an engine at 8 degrees initial.
I would try it and see what happens.
OP - where is your battery located?
What size cable did you use?
Is the negative grounded on the block?
Click to expand...

I wanted more initial but increasing slowed cranking even more. Rear mount Battery 1OT Cable to a terminal at firewall near brake pedal then a 12" standard size cable to starter.Starter relay in trunk fed with 1OT as well. All connections are clean and tight.1 OT ground from frame rail to Battery. 1OT from frame rail to engine block. Smaller ground from block to heater motor as well.
 
I do have another stock Dizzy I found lying around. Can't remember for the life of me where it came from.lol as said maybe sring or hung up plate.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I wanted more initial but increasing slowed cranking even more. Rear mount Battery 1OT Cable to a terminal at firewall near brake pedal then a 12" standard size cable to starter.Starter relay in trunk fed with 1OT as well. All connections are clean and tight.1 OT ground from frame rail to Battery. 1OT from frame rail to engine block. Smaller ground from block to heater motor as well.
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It would be a small pain in the butt, but for diagnostic purposes, you could TRY temporarily having the battery in the front, maybe on a roll cart with some cheap battery cables just to see if it turns the engine any better. That would either confirm or rule out the long cable run from the back. Just a thought.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I wanted more initial but increasing slowed cranking even more. Rear mount Battery 1OT Cable to a terminal at firewall near brake pedal then a 12" standard size cable to starter.Starter relay in trunk fed with 1OT as well. All connections are clean and tight.1 OT ground from frame rail to Battery. 1OT from frame rail to engine block. Smaller ground from block to heater motor as well.
Click to expand...
On my 512 Satellite I had to run a full length negative cable from the battery direct all the way to the block. Running it thru the frame did not work, I even had sub frame connectors. I have reed on this forum that other members have had the same issue. I refused to believe it until I fried a starter.
I dont understand your 8 degree initial timing, my gut tells me something's not right.
 
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Hard cranking and killing battery? Is the bat + wire getting hot when cranking? I've ran into a bnib pos bat wire that pulled right out of the battery clamp....bad connection and high resistance.
 
I've been over my connections and terminals at least three times. The cars waiting for spring at this point. I am going to run a separate ground wire from batt. to engine block and change the starter then investigate other possibilities like maybe something hung up in dizzy. If I get this figured out then I will increase my initial timing and add a limit screw to dial in my full advance. I would like to get my vac. can re connected for better highway mileage if able but may not be able to without spark knock.
 
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