Anyone install Edlebrock aluminum heads ?

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pearljam724

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A question for those that have replaced their own heads. I have a La 360 engine that runs very well. But, I’m looking to bump compression up a little. I’m debating on buying new Edlebrock rpm aluminum heads or having my stock 360 cast heads/ Edlebrock intake milled about 30 thousands. Depending on cost comparisons.
If I buy the new Edlebrock heads. Is it required to have the intake milled to match new heads or should it be a no fuss direct match up ? Can I use my stock rods, rockers, rocker arms on the Edlebrock heads if I buy heads with valves included ? I have hydraulic lifters and stock rockers.
I’m looking for simple results. I’m not an engine builder. But, mechanically inclined enough to swap out heads.
 
Just make sure you have a machine shop check the heads out before you bolt them on. Many need a little work to be good.
 
I know this is a very vague question. But, those that have done this more than once should have a good/rough estimate. What should be a fair price range to have stock heads and aftermarket intake milled down if I decide to go that route instead ?
 
I know this is a very vague question. But, those that have done this more than once should have a good/rough estimate. What should be a fair price range to have stock heads and aftermarket intake milled down if I decide to go that route instead ?
I've had heads milled .060. and no fitment issues.. as in I didn't have to do anything to the intake manifold. I do use Fel-Pro 1213s .060 thick intake gasket. But I'm going to switch the next time to the same gasket from Speedmaster for less than half the price. And Summit sells them also... Hear it took 150 bucks to get that much milled off. It would have been significantly last had I just wanted a little bit to clean them up... Also that's buying the Little Harbor Freight Tool to take my Springs and valves out ahead of time.. but did Mark and label and put everything back in the same spot. Also before I put them back together I put a little lapping compound on the seat and on the valve and lapped them... Been cleaned and lubricated everything with a break-in lubricant...
 
Just as something to throw out there if you decide on the aluminum heads.. a couple of months ago Speedmaster was having their by yearly sales... I was able to get their fully loaded small block aluminum Edelbrock knock off heads for $820 to my door for the set.. you'll pay close to that for one head from Edelbrock.. and I'm only making this suggestion because you sounded like you're not trying to set the world on fire but just a bump in performance...
That was just an FYI not an attempt to change the subject... And the fact is either one people will suggest you have them looked at...
I'll go ahead and edit this with a picture, people like pictures.. remember that's both of them.. plus free shipping..
Screenshot_20190913-074227.png

Also right now they have a promotion if you pay that 11722... They're giving a free Universal meeting it will fit a Magnum engine air-gap intake manifold as well a $226 value...
 
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I know this is a very vague question. But, those that have done this more than once should have a good/rough estimate. What should be a fair price range to have stock heads and aftermarket intake milled down if I decide to go that route instead ?


Please get it out of your mind about milling the intake. That is one of the stupidest thing that guys do. Your machine shop should know the formula and the proper way of doing this is cut what you want off the head deck surface them calculate what is needed to remove off the intake face of the HEAD. That way you don’t have mismatched heads and intakes and can change your combo at ease. Many times you don’t even have to worry about the intake face but alignment needs checked. Edelbrock Head quality control sucks now so I would have them checked out too as mentioned above.
 
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what are the current specs of your engine.There are guys on here that will be able to tell
you if this will result in a worthwhile gain.
 
Thats what I was thinking, a couple hundred to mill stock heads. I just don’t want to be unsatisfied if I go through the hassle of the complete process with stock milling. While the complete Edlebrock option is going to cost between 1500 and 1800.
My engine has an unknown aftermarket cam and unknown pistons. But, believe pistons are stock. Edlebrock 4 barrel and intake. It runs very well with good power. But, I’m looking to bump it up into the 350-400 hp range. I assume it’s making close to 300 as is. I also understand it’s important to know the current cam lift to understand what compression ratio will be final result after head changes.
But, someone correct me if I’m wrong. I don’t see any problems with taking my heads and milling them down 30-60 thousandths without verifying the actual cam as long as I don’t change anything else ? I think that would also apply if I’m only swapping to let’s say 64cc aluminum heads without changing anything else ? No issues ?
 
Please get it out of your mind about milling the intake. That is one of the stupidest thing that guys do. Your machine shop should know the formula and the proper way of doing this is cut what you want off the head deck surface them calculate what is needed to remove off the intake face of the HEAD. That way you don’t have mismatched heads and intakes and can change your combo at ease. Many times you don’t even have to worry about the intake face but alignment needs checked. Edelbrock Head quality control sucks now so I would have them checked out too as mentioned above.
Agree. I machined the intake because I already had the heads installed and I couldn't get the bolt holes to line up. That intake and heads will have to go together.
 
Thats what I was thinking, a couple hundred to mill stock heads. I just don’t want to be unsatisfied if I go through the hassle of the complete process with stock milling. While the complete Edlebrock option is going to cost between 1500 and 1800.
My engine has an unknown aftermarket cam and unknown pistons. But, believe pistons are stock. Edlebrock 4 barrel and intake. It runs very well with good power. But, I’m looking to bump it up into the 350-400 hp range. I assume it’s making close to 300 as is. I also understand it’s important to know the current cam lift to understand what compression ratio will be final result after head changes.
But, someone correct me if I’m wrong. I don’t see any problems with taking my heads and milling them down 30-60 thousandths without verifying the actual cam as long as I don’t change anything else ? I think that would also apply if I’m only swapping to let’s say 64cc aluminum heads without changing anything else ? No issues ?
A point of compression on a street engine really isn't worth the effort. If you're building an engine and the heads are already on the mill for a skim cut then why not.
 
Just as something to throw out there if you decide on the aluminum heads.. a couple of months ago Speedmaster was having their by yearly sales... I was able to get their fully loaded small block aluminum Edelbrock knock off heads for $820 to my door for the set.. you'll pay close to that for one head from Edelbrock.. and I'm only making this suggestion because you sounded like you're not trying to set the world on fire but just a bump in performance...
That was just an FYI not an attempt to change the subject... And the fact is either one people will suggest you have them looked at...
I'll go ahead and edit this with a picture, people like pictures.. remember that's both of them.. plus free shipping..
View attachment 1715424525
Also right now they have a promotion if you pay that 11722... They're giving a free Universal meeting it will fit a Magnum engine air-gap intake manifold as well a $226 value...
You’re right, I’m not looking for a stupid amount of hp increase. Maybe 50-100 hp. That’s the kind of answers I’m looking for. A local engine builder told me to stick with brand names when it comes to heads. While I would love to consider what you suggested. From what I understand, you take a large risk with anything else. If you have to have new off name brands machined, etc. You’re right where you were in cost had you just bought a brand name like Edlebrock. I’ve heard through a lot of research and a local builder I trust. The Edlebrocks are bolt on right out of box. It’s hard to trust cheaper brand names, if it’s going to cost a few more hundred to have them looked at or addressed.
 
A point of compression on a street engine really isn't worth the effort. If you're building an engine and the heads are already on the mill for a skim cut then why not.
I’ve seen guys do the same exact modification I’m looking to make on the same exact engine making 400 hp and the were happy it being a street car. I’m not quite looking fo 400. But, 50-75 increase would be perfect.
 
You’re right, I’m not looking for a stupid amount of hp increase. Maybe 50-100 hp. That’s the kind of answers I’m looking for. A local engine builder told me to stick with brand names when it comes to heads. While I would love to consider what you suggested. From what I understand, you take a large risk with anything else. If you have to have new off name brands machined, etc. You’re right where you were in cost had you just bought a brand name like Edlebrock. I’ve heard through a lot of research and a local builder I trust. The Edlebrocks are bolt on right out of box. It’s hard to trust cheaper brand names, if it’s going to cost a few more hundred to have them looked at or addressed.
Same exact thing my engine builder said do not buy offshore stuff! He was very adamant about it and when I called other reputable places I know of in town they were pretty much in the same frame of mind.. also take into consideration they are comfortable with these Edelbrock heads and have had good results with them and have their own liabilities to deal with as well.. but also take into consideration like I did for just one second the engine builders here on the Forum that have had them and scene not many issues and definitely none that would make your car blow up.. also the member that's doing 10 second quarter miles with them consistently... and other members who have put them on with no problems... There was some bad stories none confirm that I know of but bad nun the last from a long time ago but none recently.. On the other hand the opposite is true of Edelbrock as it seems their quality is going down like mentioned.. and again everybody will tell you to have them looked at regardless of what brand you buy even trick flow... Remember machine shops are in business to make money not to lose it.. and as a side note I have way more than $820 into my stock heads... Again let's not change this into a Speedmaster thread there's one on the Race part of the Forum that you can look up that we've discussed all this back and forth...
Back to Edelbrock vs Machining stock heads...
 
Also don't forget the little things that will cost.. you will need new head bolts or studs.. also all for gaskets the head the intake the valve cover and the header.. and likely a new round of coolant and an oil change and filter...
 
the increased flow the Edelbrocks provide may or may not matter if your cam is not able to take advantage of it. Does your car currently have a lot of low end torque or is better above 2500 rpm?
 
the increased flow the Edelbrocks provide may or may not matter if your cam is not able to take advantage of it. Does your car currently have a lot of low end torque or is better above 2500 rpm?
I have to agree with your cam questions completely.. I think before going through heads and all that maybe just a simpleI Cam and lifters change could make the whole entire difference..
To the Op remember your cam is the conductor.. Pistons go up and down and heads breath, but the cam tells it went to do it how to do it how much and how much not too.. for a noticeable bump in performance or not LOL.. I would consider a cam and lifters and possible spring change that would be a lot cheaper and possibly more bang for your buck. You could at the very least when you have your cam out take your micrometer and measure the high to the low and measure the base Circle and subtract the difference and that is your lift.. it's very hard to figure out duration but maybe learning some more about that first would be a good Avenue.. at the very least you would know exactly where you stand with your cam and to me personally I believe that's extremely important does again that's telling everything else what to do and when to do it..
 
I'll just stay out of it and let other people chime in because there's going to be a lot of opinions on this I'm sure unless you have questions..
 
Just milling stock heads or bolting on Edelbrock heads will not give you 50 - 75 horses. It's all in the properly
worked out combination of compression, heads and camshaft.
Agreed
 
Just milling stock heads or bolting on Edelbrock heads will not give you 50 - 75 horses. It's all in the properly
worked out combination of compression, heads and camshaft.
I understand and I am not disagreeing. But, you simply can’t lose horsepower if if you increase compression to a smaller degree. Especially when, the stock compression ratio, is what 8 to 1 ? I would think. If said motor is making 300 hp and you make changes to the head only on that same motor. It would have to have slightly more power ? I agree, to know what the exact compression ratio would be. You would have to know every specification. It’s not like a simple head modification or head change would over shoot a 10.5 compression ratio. Now requiring it to run on race gas only. Unless, a very high lift cam was installed. Maybe I’m wrong.
 
I understand and I am not disagreeing. But, you simply can’t lose horsepower if if you increase compression to a smaller degree. Especially when, the stock compression ratio, is what 8 to 1 ? I would think. If said motor is making 300 hp and you make changes to the head only on that same motor. It would have to have slightly more power ? I agree, to know what the exact compression ratio would be. You would have to know every specification. It’s not like a simple head modification or head change would over shoot a 10.5 compression ratio. Now requiring it to run on race gas only. Unless, a very high lift cam was installed. Maybe I’m wrong.
The cam makes a huge difference in what your dynamic compression will be and how the heads handle that compression. It all needs to work together. 10.5 with aluminum heads might be ok but that compression with a iron head might ping out of control.
 
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I understand and I am not disagreeing. But, you simply can’t lose horsepower if if you increase compression to a smaller degree. Especially when, the stock compression ratio, is what 8 to 1 ? I would think. If said motor is making 300 hp and you make changes to the head only on that same motor. It would have to have slightly more power ? I agree, to know what the exact compression ratio would be. You would have to know every specification. It’s not like a simple head modification or head change would over shoot a 10.5 compression ratio. Now requiring it to run on race gas only. Unless, a very high lift cam was installed. Maybe I’m wrong.
Yep you're wrong.. especially if you're looking for 50 to 75 more horsepower.. especially if you have no idea of what Pistons are in there.. especially if you definitely have no idea of what cam is in there... personally I think a lot more research on how a combination works is going to benefit you more than just shotgunning money out... Respectfully..
 
Ok, thank you. Maybe, I ll just port heads and intake. Or save it for a day when I take it to a builder and have pistons and cam examined for the right combination. But, that’s going to cost a minimum of 3-5 grand. Which I was trying to avoid. Especially based on other people having the same exact engine. With no lower mods, same intake. Difference is piston and cam specs I guess. Or it won’t work.
 
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