Sure-grip cone style driving characteristics ?

If you set them up right they work real snazy. On the street I sorta favor them. They are hard to wear out if you use the proper fluids, and don't peg-leg them. But once the Grip is gone out of the Suregrip, you can destroy them in a few minutes.
After restoring the unit to operation, I set mine up to a turning torque of 100 minimum to 120 preferred, ftlbs, with everything lubed up with the fluid cocktail I want to run.
120 is too much with skinny tires, and the inside tire will not stay in contact with the road, but will slip and squeal.
100 is not enough with wide or sticky tires, and on some situations , one or the other, tire will slip.
120 is just right for my 295/50-15 BFGs or Coopers, samechit to the SG.
130 is getting to act like a spool, and with 295s,I don't like it.
You'll know when it's just right, when you can come into a turn a lil too hot, in first gear,and she starts to push; but you lay on the gaspedal and the back end steers her back onto the road before you went off-roading, which usually ends poorly, or at the least, embarrassingly. Peg-legging won't do that, and a spool will push you right into the ditch.
Well maybe it's just me, that gets pushed,lol.
I see zero problems with rebuilt cone-types. I even got a machine shop to restore the cross-pin saddles, of some of my units. I've even had to clean up the clutch surfaces, of both the cases and the cones.
But there comes a day when the cones have been machined so many times that I just gotta wonder if they will still brake my 295s. So far so good.......
I have thrown away cones, spiders and pins, but never a case.

BTW; if you peg-leg them,eventually the crosspin likes to try to seize in the spiders, and ends up tearing chunks out of the spiders, twists off the crosspin retaining screw, and then trys to vacate the differential thru the backside; but I've never seen one be successful. When that happens, everything just stops turning, and you are skating; best rear brakes ever.