67 Barracuda rolling resto

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frozenfish

frozenfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
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Location
North Pole AK
1967 Barracuda streeter/occasional strip
73 340/727 (Originally 273/manual)
3.55 Suregrip
Figured I would start a thread on my project that's been on the back burner for the past 8 years while I built our house. I bought this car in 2005 for $2500 running, with a really worn out front end and some impact damage to the front left corner. The person I bought it from was selling it off for a family friend that moved out of state and it sat for 16 years. They said it was built for the strip but I didnt take their word for it. In the first 3 years or so that I owned it, I converted the front to discs and upsized the lug spacing to match the previously-added 8.25 rear. At the same time I changed all the front end wear parts and bushings, along with new big block torsion bars. I replaced the rear leaves, they were cracked in multiple places. Drove it off and on for a few years, and in between deployments repaired floor sheetmetal, added TTI dual exhaust, and tinkered with the tuning but could never get a good idle, and always had overheat problems. Parked it in 2011 while I built our house, then built a shop last year. Shop is still in progress but usable so I pulled it in this fall to start on it. The plan is for this winter: Freshen up the motor, mate it to an 833OD I picked up, refurbish and paint all the engine bay metal, K frame, steering, and suspension pieces up front. I also have to repair the trans tunnel because the PO who installed the 727 hacked right through the torsion bar crossmember. I want to be able to drive this car in the summer so I'm trying to do the resto-mod in phases during our long cold winters up here. Sorry for the long windage. Here's a pic of the car.

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Heres a few pics after removal and some details on the internals. Cast crank, TRW .030 forged pistons, and a Crane Blazer 288 cam, which was still in pretty good shape actually. I have a new Crane Energizer 284 cam kit still in the box I acquired for a couple packs of smokes years ago but I'm not sure if I want to run that one either.
It has 1587 heads with 1.60/1.88 valves. Cylinders look pretty good so far but one has been sleeved already. Rubber seals were cracked pretty good and all the gaskets were brittle. I tested the compression before removal, and all were 180 psi except #5 and 6. They were around 160.
I pulled the freeze plugs and there was tons of muck in the water jackets. I dropped off the block and heads at a local shop for hot tanking and further inspection. Hoping to hear something this week.

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Just remember A833 O/D boxes are pretty fragile pieces. Get on it real hard with a built engine, you will break it. I am putting one in my 67 notch w 408 stroker and 3.73 gears, but will eventually pull it out and out in a Passon A855 A body 5 speed.
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Just remember A833 O/D boxes are pretty fragile pieces. Get on it real hard with a built engine, you will break it. I am putting on in my 67 notch w 408 stroker and 3.73 gears, but will eventually pull it out and out in a Passon A855 A body 5 speed.
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Understood. I got one with an iron case so hopefully it will last me while I save up for a 5 speed as well. Got a lot of trees around my place but none of them got $100 bills hanging from the branches, so I do what I can with what I got.
 
I hear ya. I am gonna be doing the egg on the gas pedal thing until I can afford an upgrade.
 
So I got bad news from the machine shop the other day. My crank is toast, both heads are cracked, and the block needs bored to .060. Wrist pin came loose and tore up a cylinder. Sorry, no pics this time. I did score a set of bare NIB RHS Indy X heads for $600 though. I don't see the point of dumping my limited money into some aluminum heads for a weekend cruiser. I wasn't expecting this much damage, so between the machining and new parts needed, my funds are strained for a little bit. In the mean time I'll be working on stripping the engine bay and repairing the torsion crossmember. My business has finally slowed down for the season so it gives me more time to work on the car.
 
Could the machine shop not sleeve that cylinder that got KO'd by the wrist pin? And then go .040 if the rest of the cylinders need to be bored? If so, that would leave one more opportunity to be bored in the future.
 
JDMopar said:
Could the machine shop not sleeve that cylinder that got KO'd by the wrist pin? And then go .040 if the rest of the cylinders need to be bored? If so, that would leave one more opportunity to be bored in the future.
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The cylinder that got hit was already sleeved and bored to .030. Damage was .009 on top of that.
 
Made some progress this afternoon. Got the firewall stripped of parts, and the brake lines removed. Got two line fittings seized in the distribution block so I just removed it and will deal with that on the bench. Started disconnecting steering and suspension from the body so I can drop the K frame out. Also painted up the A833OD the other day too.

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If you're going to sand the engine compartment down to paint, instead of sandblasting....do yourself a favor before you start. Look for and at every spot weld in there, and see if there are any slag spurs sticking up. If so, take a die grinder or Dremel to them and smooth them out. You won't be able to use a sanding block on all of it, and when you sand it by hand...the slag spurs on the welds will tear thru the sandpaper and drag a hunk out of your fingers! Don't ask me how I know....lol. :BangHead: :realcrazy: :mad:
 
JDMopar said:
If you're going to sand the engine compartment down to paint, instead of sandblasting....do yourself a favor before you start. Look for and at every spot weld in there, and see if there are any slag spurs sticking up. If so, take a die grinder or Dremel to them and smooth them out. You won't be able to use a sanding block on all of it, and when you sand it by hand...the slag spurs on the welds will tear thru the sandpaper and drag a hunk out of your fingers! Don't ask me how I know....lol. :BangHead: :realcrazy: :mad:
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Thanks for the tip. I'll probably sand it down to keep the mess minimized in the shop. Never used a sandblaster outside the cabinet, but I imagine it would be pretty dusty?
 
The sandblaster would be pretty messy if you can't do it outside. Just pressure wash the engine compartment first, and then sand it after you check for the slag spurs. I usually sand with 80, then 180, then 400. Prime it with some good primer, sand it with 400 wet and clean it, and then paint it. Whether to run the crap out of the paint like the factory did in engine compartments is up to you....lol.
 
JDMopar said:
The sandblaster would be pretty messy if you can't do it outside. Just pressure wash the engine compartment first, and then sand it after you check for the slag spurs. I usually sand with 80, then 180, then 400. Prime it with some good primer, sand it with 400 wet and clean it, and then paint it. Whether to run the crap out of the paint like the factory did in engine compartments is up to you....lol.
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Sounds like a good plan, thanks for the advice. I was just starting to ponder the best method, and that seems the most feasible since I can't do it outside. I'll probably use some POR15 in those rusted areas by the master cylinder though.
 
Joe Mc said:
Sorry to hear about the 340, RIP. What have you decided to do? May I suggest spending some $$$ on a "new" engine versus throwing good money at the old 340? Perhaps Chrysler Compatible Small Block Crate Engines
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I really want to build my own engine again. I've only built once before and want to improve on the experience. I'm going to look at a 360 short block tomorrow, time permitting. Came out of an '82 Dodge 250 with 103K miles. They want $325. If I get it hot tanked and bored, it should be about another $500. Hopefully the crank will be good too, saving me another $300.
 
I hear you on the build your own experience and can relate big time. I have a '76' 360 engine that I purchased for my "340 Ruster" circa 79 from a salvage yard a friend of mine worked at. I was lucky as the Cordoba the engine came from was a fresh wreck, hard rear end hit that totaled the car, you could tell the car was well cared for even tho it was only a few years old = the interior was very clean and the exterior looked as if it had recently been waxed. The car only had 30 some thousand miles on it and I was able to hear the engine run before purchasing, it started right up and idled smoothly. I think back then I paid $250 for it. Anyway, I placed it in my Duster (which when I purchased the car didn't have the original engine or trans in it anyway, it had a 360 engine not sure of the year and a much earlier 4-speed - had a flange instead of a slip yoke), removed the intake, installed my Weiand and connected the headers. It ran very well. I ended up selling the car to a Navy buddy of mine, who decided to rebuild the engine with the help of a Chevy guy who supposedly was an ace rebuilding engines. Long story short I guess the Chevy guy didn't throughly clean the block after receiving it back from the machine shop and/or didn't know about the oil passage plugs etc. and the engine never really ran well. My friend drove the car maybe a thousand or so miles and let it sit for a few years. I was able to take him up on our deal when I sold to him = if you ever decide to sell it I get first dibs. Then the car sat in my garage for many years before I removed the engine and started to explore the inners. What I found was evidence that the Chevy guy who helped my friend build the engine apparently didn't know much about MoPars as there were metal shards in the oil pan, the new Melling oil pump rotors were scared big time, the main and rod bearings were wiped down to the copper/brass. Fortunately the crank, which for whatever reason were cut 0.010" each, appears to "hopefully" be able to be polishable. The rebuild had so little miles that there was still red-ish/orange stripes on the valve springs. Sorry for the long windedness of my reply, but there are a few points here: 1- be certain you know that the Machinist at your machine shop is familiar with the specifics of MoPar engines = oil passages, plugs, etc., 2- be certain if cylinders need to be bored that a "toque plate" is used, 3- have them install the new cam bearings and check before you take the engine out of the shop that the oil holes on said bearings are correctly aligned with the oiling holes in the block... the ones on my engine were not reducing the vital lubrication the cam needs, 4- I'm sure there's many more things to make sure of, but the crank is also key so make certain they check it and if it must be cut that you also have the block align-bored.

So, thinking about all the things that need to be done correctly as well as the expense for this work is the reason I suggested considering, for around $5k, an engine that has been built by an outfit that builds many, many engines, runs them on a dyno, provides all the information on that engine = specifics on cam, lifters, pistons, bearings and so fort, as well as dyno numbers and a "warranty". I know buying an engine that is already built for you isn't as fun as doing your own, but when you first fire it to life you'll still get the same feeling of giving birth to it "and" not have to worry about things like; will it start, will something go wrong upon initial fire up, will something else go wrong down the road...

Don't want to be a "Debbie Downer" but for me, and I do love building engines, if I need to start without an engine at all = not knowing anything about the history of my starting out point with this engine, my $ is best spent on a sure (as possible) thing. I don't own stock in any crate engine place or do I work for one, "just saying" the amount of $ you'll spend in a machine shop and all the parts you'll need for a carb-to-pan ready to drop-in and run engine for your project will most likely be the same if not more than an "already run, proven, guaranteed, with dyno numbers" engine.

I look forward to reading and viewing pictures of your project as time passes and wish you great success with it. Hopefully some day I'll be able to add to my thread (been so long since I've done anything with my car, or added to my thread, I can't remember its name = I'll have to look for it) with some sort of update.

Best of luck to you!

On Edit = Figured since I referenced my Thread and couldn't remember the name of it, as it's been a long time since I've done anything to the car/added to the thread that I didn't even remember its name that I'd include a link for it.
Beginning of the End - my 73, 340 Duster rest-o-rod???

Frozenfish - look at the engine teardown pictures on my Thread to see what I was speaking about above when my friend had it rebuilt...
 
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Joe Mc said:
I hear you on the build your own experience and can relate big time. I have a '76' 360 engine that I purchased for my "340 Ruster" circa 79 from a salvage yard a friend of mine worked at. I was lucky as the Cordoba the engine came from was a fresh wreck, hard rear end hit that totaled the car, you could tell the car was well cared for even tho it was only a few years old = the interior was very clean and the exterior looked as if it had recently been waxed. The car only had 30 some thousand miles on it and I was able to hear the engine run before purchasing, it started right up and idled smoothly. I think back then I paid $250 for it. Anyway, I placed it in my Duster (which when I purchased the car didn't have the original engine or trans in it anyway, it had a 360 engine not sure of the year and a much earlier 4-speed - had a flange instead of a slip yoke), removed the intake, installed my Weiand and connected the headers. It ran very well. I ended up selling the car to a Navy buddy of mine, who decided to rebuild the engine with the help of a Chevy guy who supposedly was an ace rebuilding engines. Long story short I guess the Chevy guy didn't throughly clean the block after receiving it back from the machine shop and/or didn't know about the oil passage plugs etc. and the engine never really ran well. My friend drove the car maybe a thousand or so miles and let it sit for a few years. I was able to take him up on our deal when I sold to him = if you ever decide to sell it I get first dibs. Then the car sat in my garage for many years before I removed the engine and started to explore the inners. What I found was evidence that the Chevy guy who helped my friend build the engine apparently didn't know much about MoPars as there were metal shards in the oil pan, the new Melling oil pump rotors were scared big time, the main and rod bearings were wiped down to the copper/brass. Fortunately the crank, which for whatever reason were cut 0.010" each, appears to "hopefully" be able to be polishable. The rebuild had so little miles that there was still red-ish/orange stripes on the valve springs. Sorry for the long windedness of my reply, but there are a few points here: 1- be certain you know that the Machinist at your machine shop is familiar with the specifics of MoPar engines = oil passages, plugs, etc., 2- be certain if cylinders need to be bored that a "toque plate" is used, 3- have them install the new cam bearings and check before you take the engine out of the shop that the oil holes on said bearings are correctly aligned with the oiling holes in the block... the ones on my engine were not reducing the vital lubrication the cam needs, 4- I'm sure there's many more things to make sure of, but the crank is also key so make certain they check it and if it must be cut that you also have the block align-bored.

So, thinking about all the things that need to be done correctly as well as the expense for this work is the reason I suggested considering, for around $5k, an engine that has been built by an outfit that builds many, many engines, runs them on a dyno, provides all the information on that engine = specifics on cam, lifters, pistons, bearings and so fort, as well as dyno numbers and a "warranty". I know buying an engine that is already built for you isn't as fun as doing your own, but when you first fire it to life you'll still get the same feeling of giving birth to it "and" not have to worry about things like; will it start, will something go wrong upon initial fire up, will something else go wrong down the road...

Don't want to be a "Debbie Downer" but for me, and I do love building engines, if I need to start without an engine at all = not knowing anything about the history of my starting out point with this engine, my $ is best spent on a sure (as possible) thing. I don't own stock in any crate engine place or do I work for one, "just saying" the amount of $ you'll spend in a machine shop and all the parts you'll need for a carb-to-pan ready to drop-in and run engine for your project will most likely be the same if not more than an "already run, proven, guaranteed, with dyno numbers" engine.

I look forward to reading and viewing pictures of your project as time passes and wish you great success with it. Hopefully some day I'll be able to add to my thread (been so long since I've done anything with my car, or added to my thread, I can't remember its name = I'll have to look for it) with some sort of update.

Best of luck to you!

On Edit = Figured since I referenced my Thread and couldn't remember the name of it, as it's been a long time since I've done anything to the car/added to the thread that I didn't even remember its name that I'd include a link for it.
Frozenfish - look at the engine teardown pictures on my Thread to see what I was speaking about above when my friend had it rebuilt...
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Thanks for the advice. I'll be sure to double check things before I take a block back from the machine shop. The block I was going to look at today couldn't be found so I'm going to have to consider my options at this point.
 
Hey, you're in Alaska.....go find Otto Kilcher! As much junk as he's got sitting around, there's bound to be a 360 in there somewhere....lol.
 
JDMopar said:
Hey, you're in Alaska.....go find Otto Kilcher! As much junk as he's got sitting around, there's bound to be a 360 in there somewhere....lol.
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That show is waaaaay over dramatized. They live just outside the town of Homer. Lol!
Picked up a 78 block and crank today, and preliminary measurements look pretty good. Crank looks like it was serviced and smeared with cosmoline for preservation. We'll see what it looks like after a bath and further inspection...
 
Frozenfish, for some reason my initial edit, post #18, didn't have the link mentioned - it appears to be there after a re-edit. See my posts with pictures from engine teardown, #'s 56, 57 & 58. Keep in mind these pictures are from an engine with less than 2,000 miles on the "rebuild". Pays to know what you are doing so you don't throw $$$ away...
 
Joe Mc said:
Frozenfish, for some reason my initial edit, post #18, didn't have the link mentioned - it appears to be there after a re-edit. See my posts with pictures from engine teardown, #'s 56, 57 & 58. Keep in mind these pictures are from an engine with less than 2,000 miles on the "rebuild". Pays to know what you are doing so you don't throw $$$ away...
Click to expand...
I read your post the other day and see what you mean. I'll have the machine shop do the cam bearings for me and verify. I've learned a lot since my first build about 14 years ago and will proceed with more caution for sure.
 
Good luck with your engine build. One of my favorite items is building the heart for sure. Do a good deal of talking with the actual "Machinist" who will be doing the work beforehand. Ask how familiar he is with SB MoPars and the oil passages. Ounce of prevention and potential for you to learn and share with us as well.

Just found this. Great info/review
How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 1: Block Prep
 
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