I'm a streeter;
on my 68 Barracuda, slightly lowered, about the best compromise I have found is a 235/60-14 on a 7.5 rim with close to a zero offset. I have run taller, and I have run wider; but not without issues of one kind or another.
Those 235s are 25.1 by the math and 9.25 section width on a 6.5/7 rim; a bit more on the 7.5s.
If you get too far from the factory size, and especially on a non zero-offset wheel, you will get to bothering the scrub radius. which will make the car hunt for straight ahead, which drove me nuts. The wider the tread,or the stickier the compound,the worse it got. I was an alignment tech at the time and I lost track of the number of times that car was on the rack that summer of 2004. The closest compromise for that, I found, was; near zero camber, and too much tire pressure,lol...... which negated the reason for the wider,stickier,tires. So then after those tires wore out, a few weeks later, maybe 10,I just put the 235s back on, and slowed down in the turns a bit , no big deal. The tires last longer and squeal less.
Besides, I have to run my 235s at no more than 29psi for long treadlife at -.5* camber. Whereas the 245/50-15s on 8s, I had to run even less, and only got about 4 to 6 weeks of decent treadlife out of them. And even tho they were not as tall, they rubbed on everything. In the end I concluded that for a streeter, the 245s were just not worth the hassle to me.
Dusters at factory ride height might have a tiny bit more room, and if you run 18" wheels (maybe even 17s, IDK), then you can get up over the BJ, and can run a wider zero-offset wheel, like an 8",lol, to keep the scrub-radius stock; but really, the 8" wheel is barely adequate for a 245 in sport driving, and so the pressure will again be sub 30 psi in day to day driving, with an aluminized-top small block. It looks nice and everything, but IMO, on the street it is just not worth the buy-in costs, for the tiny bit of cornering prowess that I got.
And the 8" zero-offset combo, at or near full lock will still rub on the frame one way,on the strut rod the other way, probably at the top of the arch from time to time, and you will have to cut the tin at the front of the wheel-opening for clearance when reversing and turning, and you may, that's may, have to make room at the back of the opening for clearance while braking and turning. A raised ride-height,HD T-bars,HD shocks,and lightening the front-end, will help, but not eliminate the cutting, trimming, and rolling. And you still have to deal with the hunting and low tire pressures,and possibly the funky 50s tail-dragging stance.
To me it just wasn't worth it.
Happy HotRodding
lol
