70 Dart rallye dash removal help

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dart6

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So far i've removed the the 6 bezel screws, disconnected the fuse box, light switch and hand brake.
Removed the steering wheel, the 3 column nuts,bolt and the 2 firewall bolts. It's a manual column and it will only drop 1/2 inch. I want the column down low so i can get my large mitts in there to disconnect the speedo and rev counter.
I'm doing all of this so i can fit a new dash pad, the windscreen is out too as it was cracked.
Do i need to disconnect the column from the steering box
 
Have you removed the three bolts on the steering column firewall plate? That would allow it to drop down some more.
 
Should be 3 nuts on the 2 upper studs and a another bolt into a caged nut about 6 inches lower on right side. 3 bolts at the floor plate also. This will let the column drop further but still not so far that the inst' panel wont scar its finish. Protect the column with shop towels.
 
Seems to me you "may not" have to pull the column off the coupler but the amount you can drop it depends on the rotational position, as the coupler will swivel further in one position.
 
On my 69 cuda, I can get the rally dash out without moving the steering column. It takes a little maneuvering.
Put painters tape on your column & dash to keep from scratching them up.
I feed led strip lights or rope light in behind it so I can see what I am doing.
It won’t move much without unhooking the speedometer cable.
 
Mike69cuda said:
On my 69 cuda, I can get the rally dash out without moving the steering column. It takes a little maneuvering.
Put painters tape on your column & dash to keep from scratching them up.
I feed led strip lights or rope light in behind it so I can see what I am doing.
It won’t move much without unhooking the speedometer cable.
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I got it out fine once i removed the 3 firewall bolts and ended up taking the whole dash out in the end to paint.

I'm looking to get a new bezel for the cluster, can anyone recommend a supplier besides classic and yearone
 
dart6 said:
I got it out fine once i removed the 3 firewall bolts and ended up taking the whole dash out in the end to paint.

I'm looking to get a new bezel for the cluster, can anyone recommend a supplier besides classic and yearone
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I just bought the bezel kit from PG Classics, good pricing $445
 
Mine was cut up from an aftermarket radio, which I decided to keep. I refinished it with chrome spray paint and Detroit Muscle wood grain. It was a pain and turned out not great but passable. It bought a new set of cragars for not much more than the price of a dash, so that is where I decided to spend my money.

$445 is a good ( but still ridiculous for what it is) price. My research all turned up about $600 or more a couple of years ago. If you go with year one or Classic, wait for a sale.
 
dart6 said:
I'm looking to get a new bezel for the cluster, can anyone recommend a supplier besides classic and yearone
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If your OEM bezel isn't damaged you might have it renewed for a little bit less coin. Many of us can recall a time when there were no reproductions. For some, buying a good renewable core was the first expense.
Regardless which way, at what cost to renew the face/bezel, renewing everything behind it is wise and highly recommended. You wouldn't want to R&R the assembly repeatedly for one problem after another.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Mine was cut up from an aftermarket radio, which I decided to keep. I refinished it with chrome spray paint and Detroit Muscle wood grain. It was a pain and turned out not great but passable. It bought a new set of cragars for not much more than the price of a dash, so that is where I decided to spend my money.

$445 is a good ( but still ridiculous for what it is) price. My research all turned up about $600 or more a couple of years ago. If you go with year one or Classic, wait for a sale.
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Those two are discount exempt for the bezel
 
RedFish said:
If your OEM bezel isn't damaged you might have it renewed for a little bit less coin. Many of us can recall a time when there were no reproductions. For some, buying a good renewable core was the first expense.
Regardless which way, at what cost to renew the face/bezel, renewing everything behind it is wise and highly recommended. You wouldn't want to R&R the assembly repeatedly for one problem after another.
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Mine has been cut up for an aftermarket radio plus shipping back and forth from New Zealand blows the price out
 
dart6 said:
What are people doing for a finish to the dash frame that is durable
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The dash and steering column have a swede finish. Power coat would be the most durable. I don't quite understand the need for more durable.
 
jazak5 said:
going to have to put this company on my radar !!
good price on the bullet (long) back up bezels also
Mopar Restoration Parts, B/E & A Restoration, Mike Ross, New New Stock

I think this just help me make a decision//replate/chrome spray a 50 yr old uv brittle/chalky part hoping it will out last me or a new part made with newer chemicals to resist uv .
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I don't think there is any uv resistance in new pvc or vacuum metalized chrome. The uv additives are in paint. If they put a clear coat of paint over the vacuum metalized chrome it takes a way from the shine/mirror like appearance. Good luck either way.
 
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