Go to street cam from the 70s-80s.

This should be marked “Great Post” under a good number of reasons. Starting with opinions and reasons, reasoning and science behind the grind.

@S.Rodney , I don’t see EFI as a must but it does add certain positives to an actual daily driver starting with a serious cut down in time from starting the engine to putting it drive at all times with winter being the biggest suck on fuel during a carbs warm up time.

Also the same with the gear vendors OD. IMO, for most applications it is, again, a waste of money IMO. But if it suites you, do it. Your car your way your money.

The cam you listed has been the go to for 318 guys for decades. It isn’t a bad cam but there can be something much more suitable for what your doing and for starters, I would run with more lift to take advantage of your heads flow abilities.

On your gear ratio choice, the final drive ratio is 3.55 X’s the OD gear to equal the new final drive ratio. I don’t remember the GV’s OD ratio, but it also must be combined with the tire size. From here I would tag AJ and ask him to run some numbers on the gear ratio/tire size/traveling rpm and such.

After that, call the cam grinders and then a converter shop to get a spot on converter with what your doing. In the end, you’ll have a great package.

Enjoy!!!



Two questions.

1. Can you even buy that cam any more?? Last time I tried to buy a cam form MP they had 2 or 3 part numbers and that was it, and I was told they (I think it was still the Germans in charge of Chrysler when I tried to buy a couple of MP cams...may have been Fiat though because I can't remember when Fiat actually took over) were going to use up what was in inventory and then eliminate all the cams and cam packages.

B. The best money you can spend right now is time on your phone. You need to call as many cam grinders as you can stomach, tell them what you have and what you want and see what they say. Take notes. Write down the name of your contact with each company so if questions come up later you are talking to the same guy. Compare what the differences are between the different cam grinders. Take notes. Ask them questions. If one of them gets testy about you asking questions about why his cam is different from another brand, hang up and scratch that cam grinder off your list. You'd be surprised how much you can learn just by picking up the phone.

Most cam grinders are more than willing to help you with a cam. Why? It's simple. If you buy a cam and it does exactly what you wanted you'll be on the web and anywhere else telling anyone who will listen how great their cam is and how well they worked with you blah blah blah. That's advertising you can't pay for.

Here are some cam companies I use or have used.

Racer Brown. Jim Dowell. You have to call him after 2 PM west coast time. You'll be talking to the guy grinding the cam.

Cam Motion. I talk to either Danny or Bob but it doesn't matter who answers the phone there. All of those people are knowledgeable and very nice. I have probably used more than 120 cams from Cam Motion and the place I retired from still uses them.

Mike Jones. You'll talk to Mike when you call. He has lots of really cool lobes. The trick for me was getting him to grind one of them for me. That said, I've used probably 35 or so cams from him.

Howard's. Never used a Howard's cam, but they also have some really nice .904 lobes. Not that you will need them, but it's nice to know they won't just pull and .842 lobe cam off the shelf, sprinkle some pixie dust on it and tell you it's the bomb.

Bullet. Which evidently has some or all of the old Ultradyne lobes, plus others. I haven't used an Ultradyne lobe since 1999 or 2000. I just couldn't come to an understanding about how much lift should be used on a certain Chrysler head. That doesn't mean they don't grind a great cam. I just have a philosophical difference of opinion with them.

There are others as well. I stay away from all the big grinders because for the most part, their job is to sell what's on the shelf.