Cam for 360

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Kiwicharger

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Te Aroha Nth Island NZ
Hi there all,
As the title says, I am looking at upgrades for the engine as I'm about to repaint the car and while its at the body shop for repainting, I'll might as well look at a cam upgrade.

The specs on the engine at the moment are as follows
360LA block, bored 60th over
Edelbrock RPM heads
Edelbrock Airgap intake
Speed Demon 650 Vac Sec Carb.
MSD 6Al digital ignition, Pro Distributor, 8.5mm plug wires.
280 duration .474 lift hydraulic flat tappet cam.
Port matched intake and headers.
Crane gold race shaft mount rockers.

Transmission
727 torqueflite, 2500rpm stall.
Am also considering the manual conversion option later on as well.

I was thinking of upgrading to a Voodoo cam set, something along the lines of this
Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits 10200703LK

Or this
Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits 10200704LK

I don't want anything to radical, as i still want to use as a street cruiser, but just something with a little more kick.

Open to other options also

Cheers
Pete
 
Have you driven it with the 284/474cam Yet?
That cam likes big number rear gears in addition to more than the 2500 stall. A bigger cam,(with no other changes), with a later closing intake will give up cylinder pressure, and lose kick below the torque peak, and the lower the rpm,the less kick..... and not gain it back until about 200 rpm later with about each 7 degree bigger cam.
You got the makings of a dynomite combo there, with around 10.8 to 11.2 Scr depending on total chamber volume,so you do have room for a short-ramp, fast rate of lift, cam like a Voodoo, or a solid-lifter cam.
That 284 is a good cam, but the acceleration ramps are really really long. Works great once wound up, but around town she kills cylinder pressure.......

With the aluminum heads you can run pressures of 180 psi or more.... which makes a dynomite streeter. Sometimes less is more. A smaller cam as described above will make more pressure and trapping will begin earlier, just what you need to run that 2500 and say 3.73 gears.
But if you go too small on the cam, you will have a preponderance of low rpm power, and can't even open the secondaries without spinning the tires. The 650 carb would work with that as well, whereas it's already too small to get the most out of that 284cam.

Have you figured out the deck-volume yet?
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I have a 230/237/110 cam in my 10.95 Scr 367, and really, it's too big. I mean it's fun and all to spin the tires to past the speed limit, once up on the cam. But man it sucks gas. and like I said; I could disconnect the secondaries and probably still spin to 50 or more mph, With 295s and 3.55s and a Commando 4-speed.
I had the next smaller cam; a 223/230/110 cam previously that made enough power, and got fantastic fuel mileage. I liked that cam better; it made power right from idle. I even ran smaller rear gears down to 2.76s with it.
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Where do you want the power to be?
I like my power to be "stout" at ~32mph, and if you gear your car right, the smaller the cam the more effective compression you can make down there. The problem I see is that the TF trans has a crappy low gear ratio of 2.45. So to get power at 32mph with that, at say 3800 requires 3.73s which for a streeter is getting up there already. I mean the cruise rpm with 3.73s is 65=3000 at zero-slip.
So now, if you build your engine to make peak torque at that 3800, then you will get a power peak about 1500 rpm later or 5300, and that points to a 268 cam

But in the same scenario, with 3.55s the torque peak needs to be about 200 rpm lower so 3600, and the power peak might also be 200rpm lower,at 5100, pointing to the the next smaller cam.
Yeah yur losing power at 5100 but with 3.55s, that is 45mph. Where do you want the power to be?
But there's something else to think about, namely stall.
See in these above examples, stall won't be a big deal because we're already at 3600 or more at 32 mph.
But now at zero mph, that's a whole nuther story. Say your engine makes 200ftlbs at 2500rpm WOT. The trans will multiply that by 2.45 and the rear end by say 3.55s. and say the TC will multiply that by 1.8 at zero mph, diminishing yo 1.05 as the car begins to move.
Ok so that looks like 200x2.45x3.55x1.8=3131into the rear axles which is plenty to start the tires spinning. But a car length or two later, the number has diminished to;200x2.45x3.55x1.05=1826 and the spinning has stopped.
So maybe you are OK with that.
But if not, then one or more of those numbers is gonna need to be increased.
We can't do anything about the 2.45 low gear
We have chosen the 3.55s for max hiway rpm of 65mph=2870@zero-slip
So that just leaves the torque.
So say you had a typical cam that torque-peaked at 3500, and so you selected a 3200TC. So now, say your engine makes 340 ftlbs. So you launch at 340x2.45x3.55x1.8=5322@WOT annihilating the tires. And again, this diminishes to 3100 now, still plenty of torque to keep the tires spinning. 340 ftlbs at 3200 is 207hp, so from this point on, your hp is gonna keep on increasing until you get to around 5000 depending on which cam you exactly installed. So now the 3200 has the bottom-end more than taken care of, even with the 3.55s.
But what happens when you hit Second gear?
Ok so with a 727 you have to stretch first gear out some, cuz the 1-2 split is pretty big. So stretch it to 6000, and on the shift, the Rs drop to 59.18% or 3550 rpm and now your engine is sitting right on the torque peak of 340 and into the axles you will get 340x1.45x3.55x1.05=1837 ftlbs and all you get is a chirp. So that's disappointing right?
So now your next option is more rear gear, And I'll guess it will take 4.30s so that will look like 340x1.45x4.30x1.05=2226, Hyup that oughtta do it. So now your engine is at 227 hp, and climbing rapidly to peak-power at or near 5000rpm. So the tires are gonna keep on spinning......... and 5000 in second gear with 4.30s will get you about 63mph; badaboom.

Now, if you install a bigger cam with no other changes; firstly that 200ftlbs at 2500WOT is gonna shrink, so forget spinning the tires very far with a 2500TC. By 3200 the torque is getting up again. Now whereas it was 340 with the smaller cam, maybe now it's only 320. So to maintain the launch performance, you might select a 3500TC and get back your 340 ftlbs.
Of course with 4.30s now 65=3470rpm @zero-slip..
So again; where do you want the power to be? It's all about the compromises. If you have 2.76 gears, and are not willing to change them, then yur kindof fubared.

All the torque numbers are estimates only, and your results WILL vary. They are for illustrative purposes only.
 
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The VooDoo 703 you listed is a great street cam. I'm running one in a 360. The 704 might be a tad big for a cruiser.
 
My street driver 360 has a 260/264@ 50 solid flat tappet in it
I could care less about gas mileage and run a 5100 flash vert
If i am going somewhere far enough to worry about gas consumption i drive a Subaru
I always freak out about having a flat with a frontrunner or a DOT drag radial so getting way far away from home and having an emergency and needing towed is a consideration
That all said i go on a lot of 20/30 mile cruises
 
Thanks all for the reply's. Lots to ponder. I'm in no big rush as I haven't pulled engine yet and wont be until confirmation from the bodyshop when they can do the paint work.
 
nothing wrong with the cam you have in there already,unless you like chasing your tail, id stick with it, im on my 4th different cam in my demon, i should have just stayed with the 340 cam, and save money that could have been used elsewhere
 
I went from a mp 280 474 to the lunati 704 in my 340 and gained nothing. Both 60ft. the same and mph about the same. That 280 has some serious midrange. I bet with your eddy heads the voodoo would be better.
 
I would put more converter in it. That will give you some more kick. 2500 stall converters are for stock engines. As mentioned above, a cam change may net you little to nothing.
 
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