How to Install 14 Inch Brakes on an A-Body (or B/E also)
I’ve been using 14” brakes for years now. In my 35 yrs of Dart ownership, at least a dozen open track events and 2 Optima events, I can say the larger brakes offer a good margin over the 13” setup I had for years prior. The additional pistons, from 2 to 4 and the additional mechanical advantage improve the feel quite a bit. If you haven’t used both on the track, you might not notice, but the difference is real.
The cut down rotor idea works and allows my 18x9s to fit perfectly with 6.38” backspace. Cass (Dr Diff) made these brackets at one time, but no longer. I also believe the alum hubs are Baer pieces. I’m not sure Baer sells component parts like they used to. The SRT rotor is heavy, but it’s a great heat synch. It’s cheap and slotted which means it’s quiet and will last some time. I use Carbo tech brakes. Not cheap, but confidence inspiring. The key issue with this setup is overall stiffness. Pad knock back is something that can be remedied by a floating rotor. The OEs do this, but it’s expensive.
I made a run of 13” brackets a while back that I will advertise at some point.
The cut down rotor idea works and allows my 18x9s to fit perfectly with 6.38” backspace. Cass (Dr Diff) made these brackets at one time, but no longer. I also believe the alum hubs are Baer pieces. I’m not sure Baer sells component parts like they used to. The SRT rotor is heavy, but it’s a great heat synch. It’s cheap and slotted which means it’s quiet and will last some time. I use Carbo tech brakes. Not cheap, but confidence inspiring. The key issue with this setup is overall stiffness. Pad knock back is something that can be remedied by a floating rotor. The OEs do this, but it’s expensive.
I made a run of 13” brackets a while back that I will advertise at some point.
