Stock magnum bottom end with tricj flow heads what cam?

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What BR3 said
stock magnum rockers work unusually well for stock rockers
still have to set the fulcrum height with a big cam or long valves, etc
Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on your perspective, the Trick Flows use LA valve gear only. The rocker is the key to the head working on a Magnum block, just like any other Magnum/LA head conversion. Geometry is much less of a hassle with the Trick Flow head though, especially with certain rockers.
 
Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on your perspective, the Trick Flows use LA valve gear only. The rocker is the key to the head working on a Magnum block, just like any other Magnum/LA head conversion. Geometry is much less of a hassle with the Trick Flow head though, especially with certain rockers.
And those certain rockers would be ......?????
 
turbo
eq heads will work fine
unless you are building a max build- then the lower endwill go
key is to avoid detonation
find that deck clearance
get your quench down to under .040
for those of you with later blocks it's easy to external oil the TF heads
OP I'd do whatever B3 says
depending on your lift Iron adjustable rockers are hard to beat for reliability
 
Stock 5.9 pistons are in the hole .050 to .055, IF your going for .040 quench you will need 2 valve reliefs, the dish of the piston you need to notch is .300 thick. Maybe a stock cam would fit but not much else.
 
Exactlty. What are these mysterious LA shaft rockers that oil through the pushrod? (Besides the Harland -$harp$
Hardly mysterious. Rockers with oil through cup style adjusters have been around for at least twenty years. Comp, PRW, and Speedmaster steel rockers are a few of the more budget friendly ones.
 
Hardly mysterious. Rockers with oil through cup style adjusters have been around for at least twenty years. Comp, PRW, and Speedmaster steel rockers are a few of the more budget friendly ones.
Thank you for the clarification. I have never seen any of the cheap shaft rockers that have a pushrod cup...that oil clear back to the shaft also. Not an expert. Just trying to make sence of it.
 
Not to piss anyone off but for the money of the blueprint engine I think doing it at home, for that price I can have a forged balanced rotating assembly with improved stocker heads. There are a few people that think buying and running the heads till a future build is a good idea! Maybe not but its my money. All the post topic asked for was cam selection which hasn't even been mentioned forever. I did not see that the BP engine included a balancer. I have an la flywheel so I thought I might recuperate some money if I purchased said engine but I have a magnum so I'm buying one no matter what. This stuff adds up quick I'm sure you all know.
 
NO worries here. It’s just normal internet chatter. Everyone loves spending your money in theory.
Some just assume to much.

Do it yourself people like me and yourself enjoy building our stuff at home with as little outside help as possible. Others press the EZ button.
For them that’s great. For me, see ya in the garage.
 
It is your money and I say risk it! I don't care if the cylinder head has more ability than your short block or camshaft. If you can afford the expense and it won't cause any family financial hardship, go for it.

Anyone who has the desire to build engines on their own should do it.

In the 1970's I built a 292 Y-block Ford for a friend. At the fire up for that engine there was a man standing by who built engines in NASCAR. When the engine started he walked around it for a while as it was running. He ask a few questions about what I had done to the engine and some questions about the assembly process. He then told me to stop by his house before I went home where he offered me the opportunity to build a NASCAR engine with him. It never did work out but it was a compliment.

More relevant to this thread though is the fact that I found out, on my own, that if you go from a stock hydraulic flat tappet camshaft to a Comp Cams 260H hydraulic flat tappet, you could gain 40+ peak horsepower in a 8.2:1 compression 360. And if you change the stock cam to a 509 in a 7.8:1 compression 440 you could gain 50+ horsepower, AND if then you switched to mildly ported iron cylinder heads you could gain an additional 60+ horsepower.

Sorry, I cannot recommend a camshaft for your application, I just don't do that for engines I don't personally build.

But if you want to experiment and build your own engine, I think you ought to do it. I think we need more people like that.
 
I gotta agree there 100%.
I live to tinker around. I like screwing together my own engines, swap cams, carbs, intakes around.
Most people say I’m doing it wrong. How is having fun wrong? I don’t get it.

As always, it is IMO, to afford the best head you can. (For YOUR build) It always pays good dividends.
 
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