New carbs??..

-

j par

Well-hung Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
33,093
Reaction score
20,760
Location
Portland Oregon
I'm wanting to take the final tuning mystery away from my engine...
I've always had these mismatched dual quads.. and Edelbrock 1406 upfront and a Carter performance 625 in the back.. I've got my wideband O2 sensor pretty happy with the carburetors as well as my plugs...
There is a little difference from front to back but I'm always wondering if it's just me on the freeway and the front carburetor getting more forced air and leaning the front a little bit.. or is it the fact that the rear carburetor is a little bigger...
Honestly I just like at this point to buy two brand new carburetors and start from scratch... The tunnel ram is definitely a square bore situation. I would rather stay with the Carter style linkage and not have Holley's turn sideways and another hundred dollars and funky sideways linkage... From what I understand I can get a Holley style carburetor but still in the forward Square bore configuration??..
If it all possible I would rather stay with the Carter Edelbrock style as I'm more familiar actually I'm pretty good with metering rods and such..
For me to pull this off sometime here in the months to come it's going to be an extremely budget-minded deal.. with that said hopefully keeping it under $250 each.. of course my go-to Speedmaster has $177 carburetors which I could have probably had $100 each last weekend :BangHead:.. I thought I seen some Street demons that were real pretty and shiny for 229 each on eBay or somewhere...
Please save the save your money up for better thousand-dollar carburetors comments because they're going to go in one ear and out the other I don't have the money for that. at the moment I don't even have the money for what I'm talking about... But where there's a will there's a way... Suggestions and comments welcome as always and thank you men...
 
sounds like you only need to buy one carb to match either of the ones you have.
 
what carter carb number would you need? I have a carb off a 69ish 383 (IIRC) I was going to use for parts but don't need it now!
 
Ever consider going with a used set of Predators? You can pick them up on flea-bay and elsewhere for pretty reasonable prices, and rebuild parts are available from their website.
 
what carter carb number would you need? I have a carb off a 69ish 383 (IIRC) I was going to use for parts but don't need it now!
I can't thank you enough for the offer that is totally cool !.. I've already tried this route and failed LOL.. I found it much easier to match the 1406 as there's so many around and the metering rods and whatnot are so much easier to find at local stores.. I had a friend actually give me one and he couldn't get it to idle. I blew it completely apart and dipped it in carb cleaner solution and it came out looking like a jewel. I then put a brand new rebuild kit in it and calibrated everything. I'll be damned if the thing didn't Idol... yes I blew out every small passage and inspected everything.. I think the base must have been warped or something... These carburetors that I have both operate and run fine and I think I could or should get $150 each.. actually I was just going to put them both up for sale and when one sells just keep the other.. I really just want to restart out with two Fresh shiny brand new carburetors bought both at the same time... And kind of take my lumps from there LOL...
Again very cool of you to make the offer!!!
 
You'll find those two carburetors are the same size.
 
I have put the identical Jets metering rods and springs in them both. I thought I remembered looking The Carter numbers up and they came up 625cfm ?..

It's marketing. They are the same.
 
Out of curiosity, are you running a Weiand or Edelbrock TR and are you using direct linkage to open both carbs at once?
 
It's marketing. They are the same.

I wouldn’t count on that.

I had two manual choke 750’s.
One Carter, one Ede.
They came from the factory with the same jets and metering rods ootb.

However, the air bleed and feed restrictions in the clusters weren’t at all the same.

And when dyno tested back to back on the same motor, did not exhibit the same performance characteristics at all(the Carter calibration was just better).

As for jpars situation...... go on eBay and buy a used carb to match one or the other of what you have.
If you get a Carter, make sure it’s the same part number as what you have now, since there are a lot of variations of the 625.
 
Of course I looked at my first go to Speedmaster and my concerns are where would I get parts for it except for sending to Speedmaster? and I don't like the idea of dual outlets on each carburetor more gas lines..
Screenshot_20191208-092331.png

Then these remanufactur Holley's for $230 each which would make me have to Advance my Holley knowledge in tuning..
Screenshot_20191208-091109.png

I think these demons would look awesome! Most sites are saying 288 each but I thought I seen them for 230 each last night and can't seem to find it now.. which is much more in my price range..
Screenshot_20191208-091514.png
 
I would love to say $1000.00 carb...times two of course.
And would Love to say HOLLEY!!!!!!!
AND ALSO SAY THAT WOULD GET YOU YOUR HALF SEC YOU'RE LOOKING FOR.:p

Well I"m not!
Get a couple of them new AVS-2.
Never like the AFB's but the AVS with the secondary air door spring adj could be a vary nice tuning effort.

If it was me i would do this over any other option.........................

Ok, if it was me
I would find me another factory mopar holley 6160 list carb to match the one i have had and used for a long long time. it's a vac secondary 1850 style carb but it always out performed the standard holley run of the mill 1850.

For you, AVS-2 all the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I wouldn’t count on that.

I had two manual choke 750’s.
One Carter, one Ede.
They came from the factory with the same jets and metering rods ootb.

However, the air bleed and feed restrictions in the clusters weren’t at all the same.

And when dyno tested back to back on the same motor, did not exhibit the same performance characteristics at all(the Carter calibration was just better).

As for jpars situation...... go on eBay and buy a used carb to match one or the other of what you have.
If you get a Carter, make sure it’s the same part number as what you have now, since there are a lot of variations of the 625.
For whatever reason maybe it's just having these for so long now and when I did Progressive used the Carter as my primary but it did seem like the Carter performs a little better... and that's just me spitballing and guessing of course but a feeling I get for sure.. again the idea of matching the 1406 is more parts availability and easy documentation to look up...
 
Never messed with a tunnel ram. If you’ve got things dialed in pretty good, and you understand the eddy style I say stick with what you know. As stated I’d pick up one to match one of the other two. My gut says that even if you bought 2 of the exact brand p/n etc there will be variances just due to manufacturing tolerances. Me I’m kind of simple and like to stick with what I know. Isn’t the quest to perfect the little nuances fun.
 
It’s easy enough to determine if your current carbs are at least theoretically a “match”.

You need a small set of drill bits to use as gauges.
Pull the clusters out of the carbs and check the sizes of all the holes.
If they’re the same between the two carbs, and the venturi and throttle bore sizes are the same...... then in theory they would be the “same”.

On the 750’s I checked out, the way the clusters were set up was very different between the Carter and Ede.

The pic of the SM carb you posted would need to be sideways mounted.

Also, In-line mounted 4160 style Holleys will require one carb be removed to do a jet change.
 
Last edited:
I have a 1850 Holley that came off a running vehicle about 4 yrs ago. If you are interested, they are dirt cheap to find, so if you find another, let me know.
 
I'd never run two Holley carbs in line, and I'd damn sure never use a vacuum secondary carb on any TR.

The benefit to the Holley style carbs is the dual feed, one to each bowl. Rather than one line feeding two needle and seats, you have one line feeding each needle and seat.

The other thing is the bowls are outside of the main body so the fuel stays cooler on the Holley than the Carter style carb.

Your combo should have two 750's on it, sideways. Make sure you get the slant cut floats so when you drop the hammer and the fuel moves to the back of the bowls it doesn't lift the float and shut off the fuel.

The linkage isn't really an issue. It's an added expense but it's really simple.

If you are not going to turn the Holley sideways, fix what you have.
 
I'd never run two Holley carbs in line, and I'd damn sure never use a vacuum secondary carb on any TR.

The benefit to the Holley style carbs is the dual feed, one to each bowl. Rather than one line feeding two needle and seats, you have one line feeding each needle and seat.

The other thing is the bowls are outside of the main body so the fuel stays cooler on the Holley than the Carter style carb.

Your combo should have two 750's on it, sideways. Make sure you get the slant cut floats so when you drop the hammer and the fuel moves to the back of the bowls it doesn't lift the float and shut off the fuel.

The linkage isn't really an issue. It's an added expense but it's really simple.

If you are not going to turn the Holley sideways, fix what you have.
I personally don't like 1850 holleys, it's why I removed it from the "running car". lol. But many put them on top, so giving J peg the option
 
I personally don't like 1850 holleys, it's why I removed it from the "running car". lol. But many put them on top, so giving J peg the option
LOL I think they're crap but I don't mind J peg using them LOL and it's back to jpeg now huh I'll consider you officially back now...
 
The street demon is a really good carburetor, seen one in action on a mild 440 recently and it ran pretty well. I recently came across Edelbrocks variations of dual four carbs with progressive and direct opening and calibration parts used. But if you aren’t concerned with not being able to pass a gas station, the predators are well known for being simple to tune and very responsive carburetors. Any used predator at a budget price is probably going to need a minimum of a full rebuild kit with a new metering block and spool, so your looking at $90-$100 per carb on top of your initial investment. But if I didn’t want to get into sideways mounting a set of Holleys, and having more height sticking out of the hood weren’t a concern, that would be the route I’d take.
 
The street demon is a really good carburetor, seen one in action on a mild 440 recently and it ran pretty well. I recently came across Edelbrocks variations of dual four carbs with progressive and direct opening and calibration parts used. But if you aren’t concerned with not being able to pass a gas station, the predators are well known for being simple to tune and very responsive carburetors. Any used predator at a budget price is probably going to need a minimum of a full rebuild kit with a new metering block and spool, so your looking at $90-$100 per carb on top of your initial investment. But if I didn’t want to get into sideways mounting a set of Holleys, and having more height sticking out of the hood weren’t a concern, that would be the route I’d take.
The more sticking out of the hood adds to the cool Factor..:thumbsup:..
 
-
Back
Top