What are the differences between the 8 3/4 & the Dana 60?

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MrJLR

MrJLR

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Only for curiosity reasons. .....
Why is one "better" than the other.....
I have no worries as I have a 8 3/4 behind my mild 318 with future plans to stroke it, but only to about 400 to 425 hp.....

Just curious


Jeff
 
Dana....Bigger and stronger because it has larger everything, but is also heavier and takes more HP to run. Downside is that it is not easily worked on like the drop out section of the 8 3/4”

8 3/4”.....still strong, but takes less HP to do the job. Parts are smaller and more susceptible to failure under high stress like too much HP. Plus side is it’s easier to work in and change parts in.

my take is that you use the right tool for the job. If you are running mild to moderate HP and doing dual duty track and street, the 8 3/4” is the right tool for that job. If you’re running high HP, or in heavy duty applications such as strip only or in a truck, the Dana is the right tool.

Is one better than the other? All depends on your application.
 
They usually only put the Dana behind 440+6 and Hemi. However there were some 6 pack cars that ended up with
8 3/4. Availability Mess up???
 
Dana 60 can probably take 1000 HP in stock form. 8 3/4 maybe 650 "or so". At the rear wheels.
 
R4Sedan said:
They usually only put the Dana behind 440+6 and Hemi. However there were some 6 pack cars that ended up with
8 3/4. Availability Mess up???
Click to expand...

Some 440 GTX's 4bbl got Danas, also, stick cars

Dana is heavy as hell, and if you shorten one out of a "truck" it's even heavier because heavier axle tubes Takes a LOT of HP just to turn it

Consider the "best alternative" a Ferd 9". Stronger than an 8 3/4, better parts availability, and a pumkin' you can easily swap gear ratios. In my opinion, the Ford 9 is easier to deal with, setup, etc, than a Dana
 
Thanks guys.....I knew the Dana is stronger.....
Is it the pinion diameter and/or the ring diameter or what that makes it stronger?

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
Thanks guys.....I knew the Dana is stronger.....
Is it the pinion diameter and/or the ring diameter or what that makes it stronger?

Jeff
Click to expand...

Pinion shaft is 1 5/8", ring gear diameter is 9 3/4", axle spline count comes in 16, 23. 30, 32, 33 and 35 with 40 available aftermarket. While I agree the Dana is a heavy ****, IMO you'd be hard pressed to see it make a big difference, since most of the time most people will be running a numerically higher gear set anyway, which will give extra leverage to get the thing rolling. Plus, people who switch to the Dana probably have plenty enough power to spare, since that's the whole reason for the switch anyway.
 
cosgig said:
Dana....Bigger and stronger because it has larger everything, but is also heavier and takes more HP to run. Downside is that it is not easily worked on like the drop out section of the 8 3/4”

8 3/4”.....still strong, but takes less HP to do the job. Parts are smaller and more susceptible to failure under high stress like too much HP. Plus side is it’s easier to work in and change parts in.

my take is that you use the right tool for the job. If you are running mild to moderate HP and doing dual duty track and street, the 8 3/4” is the right tool for that job. If you’re running high HP, or in heavy duty applications such as strip only or in a truck, the Dana is the right tool.

Is one better than the other? All depends on your application.
Click to expand...

Dana 60 has a more efficient gearset than 8 3/4. Most run exactly the same or a little quicker after switching to Dana.
 
Built PROPERLY the 8 3/4 can withstand just about ANYTHING you put in front of it..lots of cars in the 9's using them!!
 
Actually a Dana 60 is more efficient and takes less HP/torque to turn than an 8 3/4. That makes up for some of the weight difference. The more race mods you add, like spools, lightened ring gears and both using 35 spline axles, the less difference there is in weight (apples to apples). Many Stock class racers, mainly higher HP BB racers who need the extra strength, have found no difference in ET's.

As for efficiency, the differences aren't big, but are there. It's mainly in the pinion-to-ring gear relationship. The closer to center the pinion is, the more efficient it is. Chevy 12 bolt is the best, Ford 9" is the worst and has the additional drag of an extra bearing.

8 3/4" are pretty strong. The most common failure is the ring & pinion teeth. Next is the caps. Dead hooking develops the most stress and finds the weak link in the drivetrain. Billet steel yokes are a good idea for some applications. The more HP is used and the heavier the car is, the more one should worry. Naturally, the more you race each season the more strain gets put on everything.

I always liked the ease of swapping gears in an 8 3/4 when you have a spare center section. But if you figure out the correct ratio to start with, you won't have to worry about it for a very long time with a Dana 60. It's also easier to check on the condition of the gears because all you have to do is pull the cover.

I have a 360 wagon that should eventually run low 12's. I switched from an 8 3/4 to a Dana 60 for peace of mind because the car weighs 3,800 - 3,900+ lbs., depending on class. Unfortunately, I haven't got it sorted out yet and didn't have enough runs on it to make a comparison when I switched. But I wasn't concerned that there would be enough difference in it to slow me down. Plus, the weight is where it will do the most good!
 
An 8 3/4 that is set up properly is more than enough for an A body. Remember, 440 E and B bodied cars came with them if they were automatics, --- and they were heavier cars. However, if your running a transbrake, a stick shift with a strong clutch, or 10'' slicks at the track taking off on the sticky stuff, then consider a Dana. [opinion]
 
67Dart273 said:
Some 440 GTX's 4bbl got Danas, also, stick cars

Dana is heavy as hell, and if you shorten one out of a "truck" it's even heavier because heavier axle tubes Takes a LOT of HP just to turn it

Consider the "best alternative" a Ferd 9". Stronger than an 8 3/4, better parts availability, and a pumkin' you can easily swap gear ratios. In my opinion, the Ford 9 is easier to deal with, setup, etc, than a Dana
Click to expand...

A mech. friend of mine that works in a machine shop after retiring , told me that a 9" ford took more h.p. to turn than a dana 60. He has a low 8 second vega w/ a 350small block , WITH a dana 60 in it ---------jfyi .
He is changing the rollcage and going to add nitrous to it to put it into the 7`s---------------
 
pt70 said:
An 8 3/4 that is set up properly is more than enough for an A body. Remember, 440 E and B bodied cars came with them if they were automatics, --- and they were heavier cars. However, if your running a transbrake, a stick shift with a strong clutch, or 10'' slicks at the track taking off on the sticky stuff, then consider a Dana. [opinion]
Click to expand...

Or when u start blowing an 8 3
thumbnail - Copy (2).jpg
/4 every other week end--------------------
 
I love the 8 3/4. When we were kids and poor, you could have a set of pumpkins with different gears for any purpose. 2.76 for long trips, 3.23's for everyday, and 4.86's for the track. Just an hour or less to swap. And plenty strong and trouble free below 500 ft lb of torque.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I love that shot!
Click to expand...
Thanks, got a better one , but haven`t got it over to the saved pics yet. The best 2 runs I ever made , it set the wheels down on the second gear change -----------------------------memories .
 
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