Rust Converter Recommendations. Aerosol for sun faded/surface rust car.

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Johnny Mac

Johnny Mac

www.blueprintengines.com
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Evening all,

Anyone have any first hand, rave reviews, for an aerosol based, rust converter?
Something i can spray on surface rust, before priming, or filling, so i can prevent blistering in the future?

In a perfect world, something that turns surface rust into black oxide?

thanks!!!!

??
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To kill rust, covering it up will not work.

Try gentle media blasting, make sure you get to the bottom of every single rust pit.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
To kill rust, covering it up will not work.

Try gentle media blasting, make sure you get to the bottom of every single rust pit.
Click to expand...
I'm not looking for a primer, or cover-up..... do they not make a chemical oxidizer? like that eastwood rust encapsolator?? there are crevices on this car i'm never going to get with a wire wheel, and i don't own a media blaster.
 
to clarify.... spray it...sand it... then possibly even spray this again... then maybe a self etching primer?
 
Ospho basically turns rust into iron phosphate. It works well. Can be sprayed, poured, brushed, rolled..

But it will only work on actual surface rust. If it's thick or crusty then it won't work great. Any heavy rust needs to be etched, blasted or scraped away. If it's "tight" to the metal, then ospho is the stuff to use.

Epoxy paint over that and it'll be as good as it can be without acid dipping or blasting the whole Chassis.
 
Another vote for Rustoleum. I've used it a lot. Like the others, you need to scrape the flakey stuff off. Maybe even sand it a little, but you want the surface rust to remain. That's what it's designed for. 27 bucks a gallon at Lowes. Make sure it says "INDUSTRIAL" and "OIL BASED" on the front label or it's not the right stuff.
 
Johnny, here is my $0.02 worth. I do a LOT of body work, rust repair and painting. Most of the products I know of that "convert" rust to a black oxide contain phosphoric acid. All you need to do is clean the area up as well as you can, and wire brush it thoroughly to get all the loose rust possible. Then apply the converter (wear gloves and a mask). I have used brush on and spray bottle type. The rattle can should work fine, but be careful of the overspray. Follow the instructions on the product. What I have used in the past (I got it at Advance Auto) said to allow to dry thoroughly at which tie the rust-to-black process will have occurred. At that time, I cleaned the area off with paint reducer, scuffed the area up with 120 grit (or so) sandpaper and then sprayed on epoxy primer. I have had areas so treated last a long time. The first time I did it was on a car roof heavily pitted with surface rust about 15 years ago, and it still looks fine.
 
I dont trust an aerosol for such an important task.. I've had very good luck with the Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Gel. Use it all the time. Squirt it on, and use a brush to spread it out. works fantastic!
 
Do it right. There is a reason body shops do not use "rust ecapsulators"!

Like just said Ospho works well to neutallize light surface rust or rust in pitted metals. Be aware it should be neuratlized as a second step before any primer. Some primers will react to it.
 
There are people way more knowledgeable than me here, but my $0.02. Had heavy surface rust under my brake master cylinder when I bought the car, I am sure from spilt fluid. I wire wheeled the area, sprayed a rust encapsulator, primed and painted. That had to be 6 years ago, rust has not reappeared.
 
Backally said:
There are people way more knowledgeable than me here, but my $0.02. Had heavy surface rust under my brake master cylinder when I bought the car, I am sure from spilt fluid. I wire wheeled the area, sprayed a rust encapsulator, primed and painted. That had to be 6 years ago, rust has not reappeared.
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Anything that seals out moisture from metal will stop rust. Bodyshop guys shun the ecapsulator, they want their primers/paint of SOLID metal, not a hunk of rust that has been "killed" or turned into great steel? . Metal has 2 sides so 2 sides to worry about sometimes. If it works for whoever, that is great.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Another vote for Rustoleum. I've used it a lot. Like the others, you need to scrape the flakey stuff off. Maybe even sand it a little, but you want the surface rust to remain. That's what it's designed for. 27 bucks a gallon at Lowes. Make sure it says "INDUSTRIAL" and "OIL BASED" on the front label or it's not the right stuff.
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this stuff?
black-rust-oleum-automotive-car-paint-248659-64_1000.jpg
 
All,
I'm not dumping this on any swiss cheese. Any holes (which are very few) will be cutout and replaced.

This is for my hood and roof surface, that is still very solid, but has sun faded, turned brown, and things like window corners that are hard to get a sander or brush in.

Not expecting it to magically fix anything flaky or deeply pitted.
 
There is a car builder up here that swears by this. Im using it inside all my panels that i can get at.
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Johnny Mac said:
eastwood rust encapsolator
Click to expand...
Their previous product, Corroless, was formulated around a chemical reaction with the iron oxides.
I *think* they used tannic acid based technology. (think of the stain around an iron or steel nail in oak),
Eastwood has walked back the claims that their 'encapuslator' is the same - and it most certainly isn't.
The problem in getting Coroless is a large enough order to make it worthwhile dealing with export/import rules and putting it on a ship.
 
Is this just a temp fix or is the rust convertor over rust the basis for your body/paint work. Seems you mentioned the roof, etc. I can see its use inside panels, then topcoat with a good heavy enamel or epoxy primer followed by a heavy urethane/enamel. Otherwise, JUST ask any good bodyman about using it on the outside of your car to be later primed/painted????/
There are reasons why I buy projects and do them to suit me and not something someone else attempted.
 
barbee6043 said:
Is this just a temp fix or is the rust convertor over rust the basis for your body/paint work. Seems you mentioned the roof, etc. I can see its use inside panels, then topcoat with a good heavy enamel or epoxy primer followed by a heavy urethane/enamel. Otherwise, JUST ask any good bodyman about using it on the outside of your car to be later primed/painted????/
There are reasons why I buy projects and do them to suit me and not something someone else attempted.
Click to expand...

My goal was to find a chemical converter. Spray, or brush it on, and brown surface rust turns black. That's all. Combine that with sanding, and end up with a good starting point for priming and blocking. That's all. No I'm not going to brush paint my roof with kill-rust brush paint. I'm no body expert, so trying to prevent problems before attempting actual paint prep.

Maybe I'm over thinking it and im underestimating what a "self etching primer" can be used for instead of a "rust converter" I will definitely need my hand held for the paintjob.
 
Johnny Mac said:
My goal was to find a chemical converter. Spray, or brush it on, and brown surface rust turns black. That's all. Combine that with sanding, and end up with a good starting point for priming and blocking. That's all. No I'm not going to brush paint my roof with kill-rust brush paint. I'm no body expert, so trying to prevent problems before attempting actual paint prep.

Maybe I'm over thinking it and im underestimating what a "self etching primer" can be used for instead of a "rust converter" I will definitely need my hand held for the paintjob.
Click to expand...
Phosphoric acid converts rust (orange oxide) to black oxide that creates a barrier to further corrosion. That’s what the POR products use to achieve their results.

Just spray with phosphoric acid in the nooks and crannies and carry on.
 
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