Cyldinder Head Stands

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gzig5

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I'd like to build a set of head stands. I've got plenty of metal laying around and I don't feel like paying even for the cheap ones on Amazon, they are too simple. But I'm a little curious about the tapered area on the shafts. Does the head land somewhere on that taper, or is the spike suppose to go all the way through? All the pics I found show it up on the taper so I'm guessing the rod is 1/2-5/8" diameter? Need to know so I can size the rod appropriately. If anyone has dimensions that would be great. Is there a better style than the one in the link? Don't want to put too much effort into this though. I'm mainly going to be assembling/disassembling the valve train and I want to CC the chambers. Maybe a bit of polishing but I don't want to go to a fully Monty, adjustable setup just yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUBAFW/?tag=joeychgo-20
 
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I'm mostly a "keep it simple" kind of guy. I've used those stands to great effect for many years. $20? and they're plated, too. Why try to reinvent the wheel?
Like 30-35 yrs ago, I was at the Portland Swap Meet, and some guy had a pair like that for sale. I tried to talk him down to $15, but he wouldn't budge at all. I asked him what they were for (I knew, but I suspected he did not), and he said he didn't know but they HAD to be worth $30. I circled back several times that day, and tried him several times, but he never budged, hahaha.
 
$35 with shipping. I’m cheap and have 500+ pounds of various metal shapes laying around waiting to be turned into something.
 
Then go make some. The taper does not usually go all the way into the head bolt holes.
 
I cut an old rocker arm shaft in half, turn it around. Weld a pair of locking collars to a stand.
can be adjusted to many angles

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gzig5 said:
I will. Just trying to get a little info before I start making chips.
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They should be easy to make. Keep us posted. I would like to see them.
 
toolmanmike said:
These don't rotate but are plenty stable.

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Stability is important for controlled operation of the diegrinder. Keeps the chatter down, especially with longer shank carbides. With the head effectively bolted to the table it doesn't move.
Rotation was critical for best access with the burr. Also being able to sit while cutting helped a lot. So did lots of adjustable light.
 
Jimacuda said:
Stability is important for controlled operation of the diegrinder. Keeps the chatter down, especially with longer shank carbides. With the head effectively bolted to the table it doesn't move.
Rotation was critical for best access with the burr. Also being able to sit while cutting helped a lot. So did lots of adjustable light.
Click to expand...
If you are doing extensive porting, then the ability to rotate the head could be helpful. I agree lighting is fairly crucial. But if you are just gasket matching-porting, mild bowl blending-grinding, or even grinding the seats the simple peg-stands are plenty adequate.
But if you are looking for a winter project, make it as elaborate as you want.
 
I'm not porting, yet. So I just want to get the heads up off the table to do springs and simple stuff like a port match. If I were to go heavier into it I'd build something that rotates. That is the only downside mounting on the rocker shafts is the rockers can't be there, but probably a good solution for porting. If anyone has a set of the spike style I'd appreciate a length and diameter off the rod, otherwise I'll wing it.
 
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