What is the standard on the most compression

What is the standard on the most compression

Scr has almost no relationship to the gasoline.
It 's all about the heat in the chamber and the ability of the fuel to survive the heat, without spontaneously combusting before the proper time. To that end, cylinder pressure is the best guide.

That is to say, you could take a given engine at a given Scr, and vary the pressure with ICA , and create a monster detonator, or a pussycat, all on the same Scr.
I don't build engines for resale;
Just for myself, and
I collect data.

Let's take the 360, my favorite engine cuz you can easily dial the Scr in to just about anything, pretty cheap. It falls together, with 68cc heads at about 84cc total chamber volume with the .039 FelPros. The swept at 4.03 bore is 748cc.. Making an Scr of ~9.9.. So far, it's just a number.
Lets put a stock Magnum spec cam into it, retimed to it's proper install, IMO, of 106*. The Ica will be 51* and
Static compression ratio of 9.9:1.
Ica of 51*, 500ft elevation
Effective stroke is 3.08 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.66:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 178.62 PSI................... 178
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 168 ............................. 168
Fantastic engine with aluminum heads, but you cannot run 178psi with iron heads.
EDIT; Well YR says you can, and I wouldn't want to argue with him,I don't doubt that HE can, but can you?
The 168 VP says it would make an awesome tow-truck engine, or even a sick streeter.

Ok, lets put the monster 292/108 cam in it, at an Ica of 70*, otherwise it's the same engine.
Static compression ratio of 9.9:1.
Ica of 70*, 500ft
Effective stroke is 2.64 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.56:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 149.21 PSI. .................. 149
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 121 ............................... 121
There ya go a pussycat that burns the crappiest gas you can discover in the back of your garden shed, but the VP says the bottom end is real doggie.

So from 51* to 70*, in the same 9.9Scr engine You might have a full-time detonator even at PT (Part Throttle) to a race engine using a hi-stall to get rid of the soft zone, that should run just fine on 87 never mind 93.
So what would be the ideal Ica for hi 9.9 engine? you might ask.

Well it could be this one, burning 91plus with crappy often detonation-prone open-chambers
Static compression ratio of 9.9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.79 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.94:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 159.28 PSI. .................. 159
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 136 .............................. 136

Or this one, with tight-Quench and smoothed chambers on 91
Static compression ratio of 9.9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.88 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.16:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 165.15 PSI. ................. 165
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 146 ............................. 146

Or this one, if you have an 87 gas ceiling
Static compression ratio of 9.9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.72 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.76:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 154.50 PSI. .................. 155
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 129 .............................. 129
Notice the PSI/VP swings; all on the same 9.9Scr engine

Lets go back to the 292/108 cam,Swap out the .039s for .028s, install some aluminum 63cc heads and go racing.
Ok so the new total chamber volume will be 63+8.8+5 less 2.1= 74.7 and the Scr goes to ~11/1

Static compression ratio of 11:1.
Ica of 70*,500 ft
Effective stroke is 2.64 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.37:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 170.79 PSI. ................. 171
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 138 .............................. 138
Hey, looking pretty good!,and this is still a fall-together engine.

But some guys here on FABO, have figured out how to run 170psi with cast iron.
And some guys have figured out how to run 200 with aluminum.
So if you want to be competitive with that, well open up your wallet.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I don't build engines for resale;
Just for myself, and
I collect data.
From the internet, mostly from FABO, I have gleaned the following seemingly safe data, if guys are reporting accurately.
Ask your MOPAR builder; not some chevy-guy.

for tight-quench iron;
91 gas might support 165 psi
89 might support 160
87 might support 155
For an iron open chamber quenchless design, deduct at least 5psi
For an aluminum tight-quench design add 30psi,

As to street-VP
100 is so poor I wasn't even gonna include it, think slanty, not dissing slantys boys, don't get all riled up, it's just a comparison
120 or less sucks big time, think smogger-teen, stay away from here
130 requires a hi-stall, then it will work
135 is a typical iron headed result, ho-hum
140 is where the fun starts, hard to get to, with anything smaller than a 360
145 is dynomite on the street
150 too much more than this is just tirespin bragging rights
160 IDK; that's stroker territory, I haven't run it, but I suspect it's extreme overkill for the street.Ok wait, I did run it, 164VP actually, my favorite combo; just killer! Totally overkill, and my next combo sacrificed sumadat for top end. Good trade.
5VP ratio increments, are like 5psi pressure increments; the increments don't look like much but make surprisingly big differences.

As to power, here's the punchline
going to 11/1 from 8/1 with no other changes represents an absolute power increase of perhaps 5.2%; this from David Vizard. Do the math; this is perhaps a lil more than what you get from the next bigger cam.
So chasing compression, for absolute power, is best left to the drag-racers.

Whilst for streeters, the VP tells the tale; cylinder pressure is everything, and will make or break your comb, in the rpms we do most of our driving at,namely below 3500rpm. But yeah, you can get around that doggy soft bottom-end with a hi-stall.
>>BUT if you are a manual trans streeter, your engine is married to the tires and crappy VP will be a crappy combo, of that I can guarantee you.
The softer the bottom-end,(low VP) the more timing you will want to run, and all that does is make the off-idle jumpy, to the point of being undriveable down there.
The stronger the bottom end (large VP), the less timing you will need to run, and the slower the engine will be able to run and still pull itself without the rocking-horse,bucking-bronco routine. And, the less shifting,you will need to be doing.

A big cam on the street is not needed, it only raises the operating range unnecessarily. Cams in the 210 to 225, IMO are just right with a 360. A 225 will power peak around 5200, and want to be shifted at about 5600, but can pull to 6000 pretty good in a pinch.And a 225 can still have a strong bottom end, if the clearance ramps are not too stinking long.
By 230* the fuel economy is taking a dump. By 240* you will no longer want to know, and start planning roadtrips around where the gas-stations are, AND carrying extra gas.