Buy new or use what I have
Hey Doc,
I have been not using the correct terms for the bearings
Below image is correct
The cup is pressed into the hub, the cone is the part that comes out easily.
We all can give you all the advice in the world but the FSM ( downloadable at mymopar.com) will have the best info.
Unless the rotor has been turned too much ( measure with a proper caliper) or is warped (and you will not know that till you can rotate it or use it) no need to replace it
Typically new rotors do not come with bearings, some might have the bearing cups installed. Some rotors do not come attached to the hub.
The roller bearings in the cone should look uniform, the rollers should all look about the same, same color, same texture (smooth) etc. The cup in the hub should also look uniform and similar to the roller bearings in the cone.
Unless the bearings are blued, scratched, chewed up etc just buy the seals, clean the old grease out with cleaner of choice even soap and water will work just blow dry or alcohol them to remove the water and then repack them with proper grease. do the same to the inside of the hub, add a little grease inside there as well,
put the race back in and the rear seal and clean the spindle add a little grease to it, and slide the hub/ disk on. put the outer bearing ( greased up as well) then the washer, nut and keeper and tighten as per the FSM (basically snug -not tight- with wrench then loosen till slight rocking movement can be felt) cotter pin, put on the grease cap and one side done.
This video is not too bad (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
This video at about 5:00 shows packing with tool (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
Shows tightening and adjusting
This is from 67 FSM
Hey Doc,
I have been not using the correct terms for the bearings
Below image is correct
The cup is pressed into the hub, the cone is the part that comes out easily.
We all can give you all the advice in the world but the FSM ( downloadable at mymopar.com) will have the best info.
Unless the rotor has been turned too much ( measure with a proper caliper) or is warped (and you will not know that till you can rotate it or use it) no need to replace it
Typically new rotors do not come with bearings, some might have the bearing cups installed. Some rotors do not come attached to the hub.
Installing the grease seal on the front hub is 1000% earier then a 8 3/4 inner seal and the seal is about a buck or so
The roller bearings in the cone should look uniform, the rollers should all look about the same, same color, same texture (smooth) etc. The cup in the hub should also look uniform and similar to the roller bearings in the cone.
Unless the bearings are blued, scratched, chewed up etc just buy the seals, clean the old grease out with cleaner of choice even soap and water will work just blow dry or alcohol them to remove the water and then repack them with proper grease. do the same to the inside of the hub, add a little grease inside there as well,
put the race back in and the rear seal and clean the spindle add a little grease to it, and slide the hub/ disk on. put the outer bearing ( greased up as well) then the washer, nut and keeper and tighten as per the FSM (basically snug -not tight- with wrench then loosen till slight rocking movement can be felt) cotter pin, put on the grease cap and one side done.
This video is not too bad (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
This video at about 5:00 shows packing with tool (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
Shows tightening and adjusting
This is from 67 FSM
