1965 Dart 270 convertible!

ok 2 things pop out at me 1 the rear bow gets measured right where it's bent in the center of the Car to the dutchmans panel , so you will want to pretty much match the curve of the frist bow behind the header panel in front to the rear curve DON'T resize the cables on the sides. thay tell you the true (to that convertible top that was on it ) bow height. pull them taught and measure from this pic ( center of rear bow and use the tack strip screw hole and - .25 of an inch to get correct measurement , yup it's awkward since it is in the center. it's better to measure before you take the top off next time though, but now just make sure the side tensioners are tight.
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now the Rip in the sides was because the installer screwed up and put a screw in front where it's not supposed to be
that part is supposed to float and is inside the car but into the well liner to drain water into the well and out to the ground. blow the bottom pic up a bit and you will get the general measurement of where the last screw that anchors the top will go. the rest of them going towards the front just hold the well liner and tack strip on.
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Make a not as to what holes those 2 metal plates(they have threes holes usually and can be mounted differently for A and B body cars) and the Tension cables fit into and post pics of that area for us to make sure and to see if the installer goofed up there too. It does make a difference on how the top and well liner looks. I use Weldon Brush on contact cement to glue the well liner(formica laminate glue works too but isn't quite as strong) to the outer frame and also on the wheel well humps to make it look good and smooth things out, Weights are your friends along with warm weather or a hot garage.


dang ok measure the sdies top tension springs and save them if they are even close to the same length since they are not made anymore and the universal ones are about 1 inch too long to hold the top on the sides down enough while driving and letting even more wind noise (well and rain) into the car. now go back through you pictures of the tack strips and look at the Stainless. mark the tack strip where the stainless holes are so that when you put the tack strips back on you DO NOT use them, saves taking out screws time and time again(ask me how I know :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:) View attachment 1715443213
mine going in and waiting to get glued to the wheel well humps

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Thanks for the tips. I thought all tops had the same measurements. I will measure tomorrow to compare. The cables are still in place and as it was for the old top.
The side tension springs ate the factory ones and in very good condition.
Those long mounting plate with three screws are still there. It's pretty much all there but needs some TLC.
The mecanism is white. I was wondering if I should power coat it? That would keep it in shape for years.