Rear sway bar install

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DesertRat

Leading edge boomer
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Moses Lake, Washington
G-Max sway bar kit from PST as shipped
rearsw1.JPG
After my shoddy black paint job.
rearsw2.JPG
Brackets attached to the axle housing.
rearsw3.JPG
Ready to install the links.
rearsw4.JPG
Links installed, almost done.
rearsw5.JPG
The installed and tightened rear sway bar. 2 1/2hour install and moving on to the next thing.
rearsw6.JPG
 
Very nice! I have not got to buying mine yet. What did you think of the quality & instructions?

I have heard of some mounting it on the top. Is that an option / wonder if anyone has done it?
 
I like that a lot, but one thing "I" would do. I would make sure the sway bar was in the correct position and even on both sides and buzz those braces to the axle housing. That way there's no chance of them moving around.
 
One question, "HOW" do you access the bolts that hold the sway bar link brackets to the frame rails?
 
One question, "HOW" do you access the bolts that hold the sway bar link brackets to the frame rails?
Rusty: In photo one you see two plated u-bolts that are squared off. After loose bolting and centering the sway bar one loose bolts the links to the bar and swings it up to mark the holes for drilling. I marked one location on each side and pilot drilled a hole that was final at 3/8" per instructions. With one hole located I inserted one leg of the bracket bolt and market the other hole and drilled it up. Then per instructions one fishes the bracket bolt up into the frame and across to the other hole pulling both legs down through the drilled holes. I was skeptical but it worked as planned and of course there is no backup wrench required as they are essentially u-bolts. I hope my answer makes sense.
 
Rusty: In photo one you see two plated u-bolts that are squared off. After loose bolting and centering the sway bar one loose bolts the links to the bar and swings it up to mark the holes for drilling. I marked one location on each side and pilot drilled a hole that was final at 3/8" per instructions. With one hole located I inserted one leg of the bracket bolt and market the other hole and drilled it up. Then per instructions one fishes the bracket bolt up into the frame and across to the other hole pulling both legs down through the drilled holes. I was skeptical but it worked as planned and of course there is no backup wrench required as they are essentially u-bolts. I hope my answer makes sense.

Makes perfect sense! You explained it perfectly! Thanks. I did see the small u bolts but they didn't register. I assumed they were two separate bolts. Yes, I am familiar with fishing bolts through frame rails, because I've installed a lot of receiver hitches and they often require that. Thanks man. This has made my mind up to go with the GMax bar from PST on mine, "WHENEVER" the money bag arrives. LOL
 
Very nice! I have not got to buying mine yet. What did you think of the quality & instructions?

I have heard of some mounting it on the top. Is that an option / wonder if anyone has done it?
I cannot see how top mounting would be an option with stock suspension.
My car is just a mild cruiser so I didn't need a lot of rear sway bar, hence my choice and for only $220.00. The quality is more than adequate and the instructions bear reading a couple times before beginning. I install sway bars at both ends of all the cars I build and having done it before was likely an advantage.
 
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I have a factory rear sway bar from a 76 A Body cop car but not yet installed (waiting till it’s time to install the 8.75). I was looking at the parts the other day and the ends of the sway bar bolts to a U shaped plate that is secured to each rear frame rail. The end links are secured from the end if the sway bar to an adapter plate that fits between the axle and rear shock plate. Nothing is attached to the axle tubes. Looks like it will be an easy install!
 
One word of caution here do not put a rear sway bar on a car that does not have a front one. It will cause the rear of the car to come around on turns at speed.
 
pretty healthy sized rear bar. looks good. is there enough room between the bar and the rear cover for removing the axle cover for service?
 
Have u driven it yet? Noticeable difference?
Haven't driven it yet, it is one of several changes I am making to the car during the winter downtime.
With my extra time off I am really enjoying my garage time wrenching on my car.
pretty healthy sized rear bar. looks good. is there enough room between the bar and the rear cover for removing the axle cover for service?
Everything is movable so I see no reason that I can't get into the differential if I need to.
 
Your rear sway bar install is very good per PST instructions. However, be aware that the little u-bolt in the frame rails is a weak point in the design. About thirty years ago, I saw one of those u-bolts pulled right through the frame rail metal on a 1975 Chevy Nova (a southern California car and not rusted). The car did not crash but I wonder what kind of forces were at work on a road curve to do that. A better way to fasten to the frame rail would be like Chrysler did on say Cordobas or the 1976 Dart police package rear sway bar mount. I encourage you to check into the details of how it was done. My first experience with the addco design u-bolt in the frame rail was in 1971 when I bought a rear sway bar package for a 1970 Road Runner, took it home, read the instructions and compared with the parts package, then quickly took the whole thing back to the store and got a refund.
 
Your rear sway bar install is very good per PST instructions. However, be aware that the little u-bolt in the frame rails is a weak point in the design. About thirty years ago, I saw one of those u-bolts pulled right through the frame rail metal on a 1975 Chevy Nova (a southern California car and not rusted). The car did not crash but I wonder what kind of forces were at work on a road curve to do that. A better way to fasten to the frame rail would be like Chrysler did on say Cordobas or the 1976 Dart police package rear sway bar mount. I encourage you to check into the details of how it was done. My first experience with the addco design u-bolt in the frame rail was in 1971 when I bought a rear sway bar package for a 1970 Road Runner, took it home, read the instructions and compared with the parts package, then quickly took the whole thing back to the store and got a refund.

Very simple to over come. Just make a "cap" for the frame rails in that spot with some thick sheet metal and form it right over the frame rails and weld it in place. Then proceed with the u bolt installation. A little more trouble, but will solve the problem. Maybe an extra hour's work if you're slow like me.
 
I intend to put one on the Dart.
Not sure how that will work with SS springs? I put front and rear on the Challenger and made a nice improvement in handling.
I like it.
 
Public announcement for all that may need to know.

5.5in U-Bolts will work for this. I had an old pst sway bar without ubolts and mounting brackets. Pst was able to supply the mounting brackets and I got 5.5in ubolts at the bolt store here in town.
 
Very simple to over come. Just make a "cap" for the frame rails in that spot with some thick sheet metal and form it right over the frame rails and weld it in place. Then proceed with the u bolt installation. A little more trouble, but will solve the problem. Maybe an extra hour's work if you're slow like me.
Yes reinforce the frame rail in this area as the added stress will sometimes cave in the frame rail or the square bolt holes will wallow out. Had it happen
 
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