Mopar R1 block

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If your going to build a monster, look at serious high end roller lifters. Is it, Isky that makes the Red Zone lifters? Or Crower and Crane’s higher end stuff.

Honestly, at this level, the word friendly isn’t what I’d call anything but, PIA, that comes to mind.
:lol:
 
If your going to build a monster, look at serious high end roller lifters. Is it, Isky that makes the Red Zone lifters? Or Crower and Crane’s higher end stuff.

Honestly, at this level, the word friendly isn’t what I’d call anything but, PIA, that comes to mind.
:lol:


I agree totally. Cheap lifters are just that. Cheap. My favorite lifters are the Crane Pro Series lifters and the Crower. I forget which Crower but the lifter should have a wheel diameter of .810-.815 and your golden.
 
I actually wanted to start with one anyways, as it seems more roller lifter friendly.
Though I would think someone offers a roller lifter, that’ll work in a 59 deg r block? Though they don’t recommend it, it seems.


See the post Rumble made above.

If you aren't going to bush the lifter bores, make sure you tube the passenger gallery and block the oil off to the drivers side. If you are doing pushrods oiling, you can still do it, you just need to drill a .0625 hole in the tube for each lifter on the passenger side and restrict the oil to the drivers side with about a .187 or so hole and you'll be pooping in the tall cotton.
 
See the post Rumble made above.

If you aren't going to bush the lifter bores, make sure you tube the passenger gallery and block the oil off to the drivers side. If you are doing pushrods oiling, you can still do it, you just need to drill a .0625 hole in the tube for each lifter on the passenger side and restrict the oil to the drivers side with about a .187 or so hole and you'll be pooping in the tall cotton.
I did manage to use a solid body comp cams roller lifter in my latest w2 engine, going in late this month, after vacation, no oil pressure issues at all, as long as you don’t puke a lifter.
I would go through blocking oil or big time restrict it, if I hadn’t used this style lifter.
I will heed your warning though, as I have no intention of wasting a good engine.
 
If your going to build a monster, look at serious high end roller lifters. Is it, Isky that makes the Red Zone lifters? Or Crower and Crane’s higher end stuff.

Honestly, at this level, the word friendly isn’t what I’d call anything but, PIA, that comes to mind.
:lol:
I use these, unless there’s a better lifter out?
I wouldn’t call them cheap close to 600

E071F985-F2BE-46D7-8786-37215450F31F.png
 
I use these, unless there’s a better lifter out?
I wouldn’t call them cheap close to 600

View attachment 1715446430


Nothing wrong with that body. The wheel diameter is the big deal.

It's not if you are using a relatively mild lobe and you keep the engine speed down. When the engine speed goes up, the lobe gets more aggressive or both, the diameter of the wheel comes more critical.

The reason all the lifters come with that little .750 wheel is because that's all they can fit in an .842 Chevy sized body.

The Chrylser cam core is bigger in diameter than a Chevy core. That means to get the same lift with a Chrylser core as a Chevy core, the Chryler lobe will be bigger around.

For rough numbers, let's say it takes a total distance of 1.75 inches of surface to get .600 lift on a Chevy core, it will take 2 inches to get around a Chrylser core for .600 lift. I'm saying if you measure the distance the lifter has to travel around the lobe. Those are made up numbers, but it makes the point.

As surface speed goes up, the smaller wheel has to go faster to cover the distance. And that's when you can get into a real issue. Literally, the wheel will go into a harmonic vibration and then you're in a world of poo.

A lot of really smart people discount this, but they'd be wrong.

Most guys don't run into it because they don't run much RPM, don't run an agreesive lobe.

I just like being safe. A lifter failure is expensive.
 
View attachment 1715446431 Here’s my cam, go ahead critique away.


Wish I still had my Ultradyne catalog. I don't think that's a Brookshire lobe because most of his stuff went in at 6 degrees ahead. It could be though.

Not sure you need an extra 7 degrees on the exhaust side but I see nothing wrong with that. That extra exhaust timing will help carry power past peak for sure.
 
I actually wanted to start with one anyways, as it seems more roller lifter friendly.
Though I would think someone offers a roller lifter, that’ll work in a 59 deg r block? Though they don’t recommend it, it seems.

Comp has a solid roller that will drop in.
 
I have to agree. It is like a no brainer. A big wheel on your car helps for a better ride and it really is the same for the lifter. That cam is spinning really fast. I’ll take the fullest size wheel over a donut size wheel every time.
Cam Wheel or car Wheel/tire.

A car as your cam goes, a lot is in the head. How well it is balanced in the in and out, size of valves, cross sectional area, CID, intake used, exhaust is also huge, etc.....

If your building a street beast for fun, don’t worry about it. If your trying to science out a race engine for a very specific thing... well, your in a world of math now!

This is where AJ would have a great old tyme in the calculators! He’d get ya n the ball park for a cam.
 
what yr said
but to me it's the better pressure angle you get with the larger wheel
less side loading- there is a limit so going to the limit gives you better with a mopar
of course larger cam tunnels and base circles help too
and top fuel size wheels and cores and lifter bores
and on it goes
but no reason to use a small wheel at all on your mopar
 
Wish I still had my Ultradyne catalog. I don't think that's a Brookshire lobe because most of his stuff went in at 6 degrees ahead. It could be though.

Not sure you need an extra 7 degrees on the exhaust side but I see nothing wrong with that. That extra exhaust timing will help carry power past peak for sure.
I believe that is a older crane grind hence the cra at the beginning of the part number. I know It isn't an ultradyne,for one the lash is usually a bit tighter and crane seemed to like the 106 on the race stuff.
 
I believe that is a older crane grind hence the cra at the beginning of the part number. I know It isn't an ultradyne,for one the lash is usually a bit tighter and crane seemed to like the 106 on the race stuff.


Wow. Didn't know Bullet had some Crane grinds in their catalog.
 
I believe that is a older crane grind hence the cra at the beginning of the part number. I know It isn't an ultradyne,for one the lash is usually a bit tighter and crane seemed to like the 106 on the race stuff.
The CRA in the beginning of the part number, C stands for conventional nose, D would stand for Dwell nose, as used in stock eliminator racing.
R stands for lobes suited for higher rpm design.
A stands for asymmetrical cam, opening and closing ramps different, which usually have a slower closing rate to eliminate valve bounce.
 
Wow. Didn't know Bullet had some Crane grinds in their catalog.
Ultradyne for sure. I usually use Lunati, but Bullit comes highly recommended.
Ok I made a deal on a fresh 4.04 bore X block, .040 taken off the deck.
I feel lucky as he accepted my offer.
No were near the 3,500-3800 jpar said they go for. So for around half that I should have a much more bullet proof block.
 
If your building a street beast for fun, don’t worry about it. If your trying to science out a race engine for a very specific thing... well, your in a world of math now!

This is where AJ would have a great old tyme in the calculators! He’d get ya n the ball park for a cam.[/QUOTE]
I’m attempting to get my car in the high 9s in order to possibly be able to run a 9.90 index at a coupe tracks around here. Super gas.
That’s around the 700 horse mark, so a 440 small block should allow me to get there with a little cushion.
The engine going in it now, is what that cam is going in. A 372 with w2 heads which should get the car solidly in the 10s in order to get the car lined out, and see how the chassis is going to work now that’s it’s a full caged car.
 
IIRC .800 or .810" .
I’m not sure of the wheel size, but a buddy had the same roller lifter in his bracket car, a 340 demon 2600 pound with him in it, w2 heads roller cam a smidge smaller then what I’m running, for around a decade. Super reliable engine, and did no block mods to the oiling system to run in a stock block, ran low low 6s in the eighth mile.
 
Plus the Chevelle that I want to wear out has run a best of 10.17
He calls our little small block mopars ROD breakers. I want to warp the frame of that Chevelle going around him.
He sees I’m possibly a threat to his throne, as I routinely bring the Challenger to the parts store where he works, and he can’t believe I drive a 11 second car on the street.
Of course I tell him it’s my wife’s car, and I had to keep it mild for her.
 
Ultradyne for sure. I usually use Lunati, but Bullit comes highly recommended.
Ok I made a deal on a fresh 4.04 bore X block, .040 taken off the deck.
I feel lucky as he accepted my offer.
No were near the 3,500-3800 jpar said they go for. So for around half that I should have a much more bullet proof block.


AWESOME. The .040 off the deck is no big deal. Glad you got it.
 
The CRA in the beginning of the part number, C stands for conventional nose, D would stand for Dwell nose, as used in stock eliminator racing.
R stands for lobes suited for higher rpm design.
A stands for asymmetrical cam, opening and closing ramps different, which usually have a slower closing rate to eliminate valve bounce.
Roger that, I should have looked a little harder, a local cam grinder here has quite a few crane profiles and it sure looked like one,almost an exact match to one a buddy had from the part number down to the timing specs. Do you know if it's an older ultradyne profile?, just curious since I have not seen that one in the master list but I believe the one I use has updated/newer lobes. At any rate it should get the job done!.
 
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the larger wheel will wear your tappet bores less
but then you tend to up the acceleration...so you are more reliable
and then...
you beat the chevies
 
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