Pushrod Questions

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Dodge72

Odd one out
Joined
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Location
Olympia, WA
Happy New Year everybody! New year, same project. ;)

I'm closing in on buttoning up my 360 build, but pushrods remain the thing the purchase and install. I have a LA roller block 360, with older non-roller 360 heads. I have a near stock reground cam (203/204 dur., .447 lift), with non adjustable factory stamped steel rockers. This is simply a cruiser engine that I may get up on occasionally for spirited driving and to pass people on the highway. I had tried to research in measuring hydraulic, non adjustable rocker arms and you need to get the length right in order to have correct preload. Can you tell me if I did this correctly?

I installed my adjustable pushrod in shorter than normal to install the rocker shaft. The lifter was placed on the base circle of the cam. Rocker shaft installed, I began to lengthen the pushrod, going and going until there was no more up and down movement and made sure that it wasn't pushing down on the lifter plunger. Once this was achieved, I determined that this is the length at "0 preload"; I could be wrong on that. I removed the rocker shaft and measured the pushrod.

Length at "0 preload": 6.6875". These are measured from ball end tip to ball end tip.

Then, reading more, I hear that hydraulic roller cams like preload on the lifters, anywhere from .030"-.060" of preload. I picked .050" in the middle and added that to the length of my pushrod.

Total length of pushrod with .050" preload: 6.6925".

Let me know what I need to change so I can remeasure.

My next question is holes or no holes? When I first got the engine (it is a 92, no it is not a Magnum), it did have the oil through pushrod holes. I have stock replacement Melling hydraulic rollers with oil through holes. I've seen some back and fourth on the subject. When I primed the engine I didn't see a whole bunch of oil but I saw evidence of oil being bled through under where the rocker oiling hole is. I may try to prime it again just to be 100% sure but is it detrimental to have it either way?

Sorry for the essay, I think I covered everything though. Once this is determined this is the last thing to buy!...Well, until something unforeseen happens lol. Thank you!
 
Sounds like you nailed the pushrod measuring procedure to the wall. I think you're good there. Also, "I" see no problem going either way on the pushrods, oil hole or not. Since it's not a Magnum, it does not require pushrod oiling, but "it won't hurt" either. If it was mine, I would probably just run solid pushrods. Maybe others will chime in for a consensus.
 
I agree you got the length right. Maybe do it again on another cylinder or two just to be sure. No two will be identical. Then you just buy the longest as calculated.
You can run any kind of push rod with your setup. There are no drawbacks I can think of with either type. It was designed for non-oiling push rods.
 
Call the company you plan to get the pushrods from and ask them how THEY want you to measure. There are a few different ways to do it. None is right or wrong but some do it differently than others depending on the type of pushrod. Sometimes it’s easier to send them the measuring pushrod. Also when priming a SBM slowly rotate the engine by hand while priming to allow the oil holes to line up. They only oil at certain parts of the rotation up top.
 
what rrr said
but given the hole option i'd take it
really helps at higher spring loads and rpm
but as rrr said does not hurt and could help on cup wear
I have a picture somewhere of yours truly adjusting the valves on a chevy top fuel car (ca 62) then the problem was getting oil from the pushrod to the rocker ball no roller rockers
 
Be aware that the pushrod angle is a bit different for the roller block versus non-roller block. Because of this, some guys have run into the problem of the pushrods rubbing the pushrod holes in the non-roller heads when installed on a roller block. So be sure you check ALL the pushrods for clearance to the pushrod holes at max lift. Your lift is not a lot, so that may help avoiid any issues, but check for any pushrod rubbing in this setup.
 
So I checked a few more out and averaged the length to be 6.634 with no preload. With .050" preload, it's 6.684". Not sure if I want to go with more preload or stick with that number.

Sounds like you got it, I had an identical build and ended up using these
Trick Flow® Chromoly Pushrods TFS-21406700

Nice, thank you for the link! Those would give me approximately .066" preload. However I do see that they say "with guide plates", did you have guide plates on your build? I do not.

Be aware that the pushrod angle is a bit different for the roller block versus non-roller block. Because of this, some guys have run into the problem of the pushrods rubbing the pushrod holes in the non-roller heads when installed on a roller block. So be sure you check ALL the pushrods for clearance to the pushrod holes at max lift. Your lift is not a lot, so that may help avoiid any issues, but check for any pushrod rubbing in this setup.

Oh I've had that battle already. Took the heads off multiple times to fight that. I had originally had gotten the pushrod holes drilled out to 9/16". Something smaller than the true roller head hole diameter. When that still didn't work, they got taken off again and ground out the very bottom of the hole where I saw they rubbed. Wrapping old pushrods in multiple layers of tape, I tested then would grind some more until they didn't tear through every single layer of tape. I think as long as I stay with the original 5/16" thick pushrod I'll be okay. But yeah, if I hadn't already had the heads rebuilt I would have saved for some EQ heads. Live and learn!
 
So I checked a few more out and averaged the length to be 6.634 with no preload. With .050" preload, it's 6.684". Not sure if I want to go with more preload or stick with that number.



Nice, thank you for the link! Those would give me approximately .066" preload. However I do see that they say "with guide plates", did you have guide plates on your build? I do not.

No,our mopars don't need them with shaft rockers, they are just heat treated so it will be good. On the preload we wound up with .080 I believe and it was happy, the lifters did not like the original .030 we had so we found these and used them.
 
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