Which Tuff wheel is this?!?

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GoldSwinger71

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So I decided to try and put the horn button assembly into my wheel and remove that ugly horn button on the dash, and when I removed the button (which was hot glued to the plate... stupid previous owner), I was greeted with this metal tapered piece bonded to the wheel!!!

The part number comes up as a Cuda wheel on the stamping, but there’s no provision for a horn??? Is this because of the longer can of the E body adapters?

Regardless, I’m ordering a new walnut Grant wheel to replace it, but I thought I would ask as I’ve not found another picture that looks like this center structure on a Tuff wheel.

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That appears to be a rimblow wheel. The horn "button" is the complete inside circumference of the steering wheel. As designed, you just squeeze the rim of the wheel anywhere to blow the horn. They were known for malfunctioning including not working or working when they wanted to and you did not. If you look inside the steering wheel cover, there should be a slot all the way around the inside of the rim of the wheel.
 
That may explain why they disconnected the wire to the horn. Luckily for me, they only clipped the end, and left a little wire to work with. I'll have to solder on an extension, but it's better than running a new wire down the column.
 
That's the first one of those I've go to see under the center pad. I will recommend getting a factory type horn switch for the grant tuff wheel, it has the screw holes in it to mount them. The Grant horn button kit is junk, IMHO. There's an adapter inside the grant cap that can be pulled out to allow it to be mounted on the factory horn switch. Here it is from classic industries site.
1967-1979 Plymouth Parts | MW931 | 1968-76 Mopar Horn Contact Assembly; with Tuff Steering Wheel | Classic Industries
I would look and see if there are screw holes under that metal cone first. All you may need to outfit that wheel with a horn switch is to take the cone off, mount the horn switch, and get a Grant or a repro horn pad. These are the screw holes to look for.
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Definitely a rim blow. You can retrofit a early E body (perhaps other models) horn system onto it and use a center button, you just have to drill 3 small holes (as I recall).
 
Thanks for the info 70chall440, I didn't know if they were all drilled and tapped or not. If they are carbon steel it wouldn't be too bad to drill and tap for horn switch screws. If they're stainless like the Grants, then probably not so much.
 
I will probably take off that ugly cover before I put it on the shelf. I’m curious what the condition is underneath.
 
So a few things... first off, they do not drill the holes underneath the metal collar in the Rim Blow wheel, I flipped it over to confirm. Second, this one was not in good shape... :-( Makes sense why they put the cover on it.

The Grant wheel I ordered arrived with bad threads for one of the horn screws, so back she goes...

BUT, the best news of all, when they put that stupid horn switch on the dash, they only clipped a small portion of the wire in the column towards the steering wheel Why they didn't just unplug it and tape it off, I will never know, because the 90 degree disconnect was still attached to the back of the steering wheel. I was able to add an extension to the wire, and confirm it will work when the new wheel arrives.

I can get rid of that monstrosity... Unfortunately, I now have some holes in my dash I need to contend with. It might end up being a cell phone mount. Not ideal, I know... but it's better than holes!

Knocking out those little projects, one at a time! Pretty soon I'll be moving to the engine compartment.
 
Yep, just a core. I used to have Jerome Verbit from PA. restore mine. But, since he's passed away I don't even
know who is any good.
 
Got the wheel installed, and the horn works! Now when my replacement horn / key buzzer relay arrives, it will be functioning as it did from 1971. How long until I regret getting the buzzers working?

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