I'll let you know how it goes, Oldiron440. I'm retired and it will take me a while to get all the parts together. It will take some patience finding the sweet spot adjustment wise, but I think it will work out pretty well.
I'm pretty sure the key to running them on the street will center on adjusting lash fairly tight and running a good grade of high viscosity dino oil. No synthetics and no thin stuff. Either 10W40 or 20W50 with a good ZDDP additive package following break-in. I am presently running 10W40 Valvoline 4-stroke Motorcycle oil (also available in 20W50) in our cars with flat tappet cams along with an added friction modifier. Same company makes VRI in dino oil, as well. A lot of folks like that, but I wanted 10W40 and you must go to either 10W30 or 20W50 with the VR1 (which I am willing to do if it will work better with the Rhoads lifters). Bonus with the 4-stroke Motorcycle oil (1120ppm zinc/1030ppm phosphorus) ...... Its a $buck less per quart. VR1 20W50 (1400ppm zinc/1300ppm phosphorus) has more ZDDP content than VR1 10W30 (1100ppm zinc/1000ppm phosphorus)......
Have a buddy who spent some years working for GM and helped engineer their HEI distributors. He suggested running Rhoads lifters only on the intake side and running regular solid lifters on exhaust. Not sure I am ready to take that step, but next time I hear from him, I'll ask his reasoning on that and give it some thought.
