Cam & engine gurus gtf in her meow!

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WTruo said:
I appreciate everybody's advice, I really do. Like I said earlier I should have posted the cam spec's before I placed the order and I'm sure we could have found something better.

I'll send the cam back but will still install the other mods since I don't feel like messing with shipping and most of the parts besides the sniper kit have been in storage for 2 years so I don't think I can get a refund on them.

So thanks to ya that can in and had patience with my ignorance and actually gave advice.

And to those that came in just to take shots at me, thank you too.

I got to see some of your true colors.
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I don't think anyone was "taking shots" at you.

Just pointing out that what you want, may not be what you want.

And calling Comp for cam help is like calling a bakery and asking for help in your diet.
 
I would call someone who grinds cams not the big company who has employees that look at charts....
 
If you can stand your engine buzzing at 3000 rpm at highway speed, you could stick with the cam you have if you have the springs and hardware, or go on up to a thumpr cam kit. Put in 4.56 gears, a set of short straight through magna flow canisters or 12 inch cherry bomb mufflers and go make some noise and be happy! You may find yourself even becoming more interested in the performance aspect if it makes it fun for you to drive.
 
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Actually I kind of agree with 318 and the Whiplash cam.. that way you get to spend too much money or something to make it sound like you have something cool when you don't.. or for people who want to talk the talk and can't walk the walk...
 
I don't think anybody was "taking shots".
It can be an "interesting" crowd at times, but most really want to help. You should hang around. It gets better. :)

For what you are doing, I'm in the stock cam camp. Put a nice matching carb/intake combo on it, with a free flowing exhaust, and let her rip !!!!!

Never was into a cam for just the sound. Never made sense to me.
 
This is the only off the shelf cam I would run for what you have and what you want out of it but it's not super cheap. Low duration,single pattern tight lobe separation=torquey as heck and mild choppy idle.
  • Performance-Economy Supercams™
  • Hyd.
  • Valve Lift Int/Ext. 0.435
  • Valve Lash Hot Int/Ext. 0.000
  • ADV Duration Int/Ext. 262
  • 0.050 Duration Int/Ext. 208
  • Lobe Center 108
  • Isky Racing Cams 390126
 
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Garrett Ellison said:
If you can stand your engine buzzing at 3000 rpm at highway speed, you could stick with the cam you have if you have the springs and hardware, or go on up to a thumpr cam kit. Put in 4.56 gears, a set of short straight through magna flow canisters or 12 inch cherry bomb mufflers and go make some noise and be happy! You may find yourself even becoming more interested in the performance aspect if it makes it fun for you to drive.
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I'm not going to lie. I loved driving this truck. Stock 360, 4 spd. It did buzz! Almost never took it on the interstate though for just that reason. (well maybe a little bit also be cause of the overall condition). Never looked up the gearing but was pretty low even in high.
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Install it down around 102 intake center line and it'll make up the difference for being a little big.
 
sireland67 said:
Old Hemi grind 484/484 I went down that rabbit hole as a stupid teenager.
Stock 318 4-speed 3.91 gears, to top it off I but bigger chamber J heads on it.
POS would only do 10.00 flat in the 1/8 mile.

It was a dog, but sounded like a thrash machine.

Never again, when I buy an off the shelf cam, I buy the next one smaller than the manufacturer recommends.
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There have been at least three versions of that cam and they kept getting bigger. The eighties version was advertised 284 duration. 471/.474 lift, 109 CL.
A freind ran his Dart well into the 12s with this cam both 4 speed then automatic .
 
Trust me on this
the lunati or howard will wipe the isky chevy cm (the way Isky measures cams they (like MP) are longer seat to seat than they look compared to lunati, howard, comp and way way bigger than a similar advertised duration summit or crane or Elgin, Sealed Power, Mellings etc
If you have to advance a cam that much as suggested above it solves one problem- the dynamic compression but hurts the other side- fuel economy and exhaust heat- you are blowing efficiency out the tail pipe
get the right cam in the first place
 
If you're sticking with comp cams, I would go with something like the xe262 or even the xe256. This is your daily driver correct? I assume you would like some kind of fuel economy. The thumper will not get you that. And if it doesn't sound ballsy enough for you, hang some plastic testicles from your trailer hitch!
 
dartfever said:
If you're sticking with comp cams, I would go with something like the xe262 or even the xe256. This is your daily driver correct? I assume you would like some kind of fuel economy. The thumper will not get you that. And if it doesn't sound ballsy enough for you, hang some plastic testicles from your trailer hitch!
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It gets me around town sometimes. Ive been neglecting it for the better half of 3 years now and I just want to drive it around again.
 
Before you commit to changing things around, how about a compression test and posting the numbers for us?
 
Wyrmrider said:
Trust me on this
the lunati or howard will wipe the isky chevy cm (the way Isky measures cams they (like MP) are longer seat to seat than they look compared to lunati, howard, comp and way way bigger than a similar advertised duration summit or crane or Elgin, Sealed Power, Mellings etc
If you have to advance a cam that much as suggested above it solves one problem- the dynamic compression but hurts the other side- fuel economy and exhaust heat- you are blowing efficiency out the tail pipe
get the right cam in the first place
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I hear what you are saying and normally I would be right with you but given the overall numbers/profile I think its splitting hairs. I have experience with that cam in a heavy rig with a stock low compression 360 and it hauled the mail quite nicely.
To the op if you really wanted to wake up performance and have freedom to choose a cam get some more compression, no matter if it is shaved heads,thin head gaskets or even a set of nicely worked over 302 heads (some would disagree but its a truck after all) and it will make a huge difference.
 
xe 256 over the 262 but both give up torque to a .904 lifter design
too bad comp does not make a xe256HL or a xe250HL which would but the chevy design in the weeds I agree the comp would be better than stock but why give up the power for nothing?
 
Exactly big little cam set it up like a pro
me? id use dual springs and break in on the outer and use lifters with flats on the sides
I just posted this in another thread but it fits here to
from the archives talking about the similar Lunati
  1. Harold designed both the comp xe line and the MOPAR Lunati Voodoo line
    here's what he says
    "The Mopar VooDoos are true Chrysler profiles, designed for the .904" tappets. "
    "That 213/.454" profile is about 5 or 6 degrees fatter at .200 than the Chevrolet one."

    my comment -5 or 6 degrees at 200 is huge- you can feel it
    The comp xe lobes were designed by Harold after General Kenetics and before Ultradyne and the Lunati Voodoo Mopar hydraulic lobes after Ultradyne
    anyone think that Harold did not learn anything over the years? The Lunati lobes are more modern than the xe lobes- which are much more modern than the H (270h) lobes
    Simple as that
    from another thread Harold gives more on the "213/454 profile he mentions above
    "60400 250/256@ seat 208/213@.050 .454"/.454" valve lift, 112 LSA
    60401 256/262 213/220 .454'/.475" 112 LSA."

    "The 60401 makes about 19" of vacuum in a 360, so you should have plenty in a 408."
    UDHarold"

    Stan Weiss adds FYI
    " for a flat tappet max velocity is around

    .842" - 0.00717 inch / deg

    .875" - 0.00746 inch / deg

    .904" - 0.00771 inch / deg"

    Stan

    i mentioned somewhere that both the Lunati and the Howards close the intake at around the same place as the Lunati is 250 on a 112 lca and the howard is 256 on a 110
  2. so know the tradeoffs and make a choice
 
lead69 said:
I hear what you are saying and normally I would be right with you but given the overall numbers/profile I think its splitting hairs. I have experience with that cam in a heavy rig with a stock low compression 360 and it hauled the mail quite nicely.
To the op if you really wanted to wake up performance and have freedom to choose a cam get some more compression, no matter if it is shaved heads,thin head gaskets or even a set of nicely worked over 302 heads (some would disagree but its a truck after all) and it will make a huge difference.
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yes on the worked 302 heads, i have them on a 360, works great.putting on some xheads this spring though
 
Wyrmrider said:
Exactly big little cam set it up like a pro
me? id use dual springs and break in on the outer and use lifters with flats on the sides
I just posted this in another thread but it fits here to
from the archives talking about the similar Lunati
  1. Harold designed both the comp xe line and the MOPAR Lunati Voodoo line
    here's what he says
    "The Mopar VooDoos are true Chrysler profiles, designed for the .904" tappets. "
    "That 213/.454" profile is about 5 or 6 degrees fatter at .200 than the Chevrolet one."

    my comment -5 or 6 degrees at 200 is huge- you can feel it
    The comp xe lobes were designed by Harold after General Kenetics and before Ultradyne and the Lunati Voodoo Mopar hydraulic lobes after Ultradyne
    anyone think that Harold did not learn anything over the years? The Lunati lobes are more modern than the xe lobes- which are much more modern than the H (270h) lobes
    Simple as that
    from another thread Harold gives more on the "213/454 profile he mentions above
    "60400 250/256@ seat 208/213@.050 .454"/.454" valve lift, 112 LSA
    60401 256/262 213/220 .454'/.475" 112 LSA."

    "The 60401 makes about 19" of vacuum in a 360, so you should have plenty in a 408."
    UDHarold"

    Stan Weiss adds FYI
    " for a flat tappet max velocity is around

    .842" - 0.00717 inch / deg

    .875" - 0.00746 inch / deg

    .904" - 0.00771 inch / deg"

    Stan

    i mentioned somewhere that both the Lunati and the Howards close the intake at around the same place as the Lunati is 250 on a 112 lca and the howard is 256 on a 110
  2. so know the tradeoffs and make a choice
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Interesting stuff!!! Didn't know Brookshire did the XE lobes. Pretty cool history. He was well ahead of his time for sure.
 
do not stick in dot to dot too many are not ground where dot to dot is- degree them in
Exchange a comp cam- too bad they do not make one that fits his needs- nothing under 275 hyd he could go solid
but what to do
just return it-why deal with those incompetants
 
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